Camper Van Insulate or Not?
#16
My son and I did the floor and the doghouse in a day.
The doors (reflectix and denim mat) and dash cavity in another day. Could have got more done that day, but I ran low on reflectix.
I used spray adhesive to attach the reflectix. Lightly sprayed the reflrctix and then the metal.
The doors (reflectix and denim mat) and dash cavity in another day. Could have got more done that day, but I ran low on reflectix.
I used spray adhesive to attach the reflectix. Lightly sprayed the reflrctix and then the metal.
#17
#18
#19
It looks like I have my work cut out for me to do this right...
What do you guys think about a solid fuel heater?
I mention this for a couple of reasons. I know propane causes condensation and uses a good bit of fuel unless you use something like the propex heater..
Using a wood heater would keep the air dry. Wood is everywhere and you can burn coal or charcoal in it.
The one I have been thinking about is called Tiny Tot. They also have one called Pet.
It is 6" in diameter, 9 1/2" high, the mounting base is 8 1/2" round and the whole thing weighs 13lbs. It requires a 3" flue pipe. People in the boating forums say it will heat for 4 to 5 hrs once you have a bed of coals..
It also has a cook top that can mount on top of it. The cook top is 9"x 14 1/2" and with the cook top the total height is 13" and weight is 24lbs..
It can be installed so it is easy to take out in warm weather. During cold weather it doubles as your cook stove.
A Coleman duel fuel stove is 17 x 14 x 7 inches.
http://www.fatscostoves.com/images/brochure.pdf
here is a video of the stove without the cook top added. All the boating forums say to use the stainless steel flue parts from Dickerson company which also builds boat heaters.
I called the company and they said it takes a minimum of 4' flue pipe to draft properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOUMKTYgOm8&t=114s
What do you guys think about a solid fuel heater?
I mention this for a couple of reasons. I know propane causes condensation and uses a good bit of fuel unless you use something like the propex heater..
Using a wood heater would keep the air dry. Wood is everywhere and you can burn coal or charcoal in it.
The one I have been thinking about is called Tiny Tot. They also have one called Pet.
It is 6" in diameter, 9 1/2" high, the mounting base is 8 1/2" round and the whole thing weighs 13lbs. It requires a 3" flue pipe. People in the boating forums say it will heat for 4 to 5 hrs once you have a bed of coals..
It also has a cook top that can mount on top of it. The cook top is 9"x 14 1/2" and with the cook top the total height is 13" and weight is 24lbs..
It can be installed so it is easy to take out in warm weather. During cold weather it doubles as your cook stove.
A Coleman duel fuel stove is 17 x 14 x 7 inches.
http://www.fatscostoves.com/images/brochure.pdf
here is a video of the stove without the cook top added. All the boating forums say to use the stainless steel flue parts from Dickerson company which also builds boat heaters.
I called the company and they said it takes a minimum of 4' flue pipe to draft properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOUMKTYgOm8&t=114s
#20
I would definitely use some reflectix. I wonder if you could use some of the rigid insulation board cut to fit. It is avialable in different thicknesses and is pretty cheap. In exteme cold it can also be used for windows.
#21
I wonder if a person can glue fabric over the ridged insulation board? That section you see over the doors is just 3/16 paneling with fabric glued on it. The screws at the bottom just pulled the wood around.
That is not the Big Buddy is it? I keep seeing people leaving one of the center seats in place. That's starting to become appealing to me! Do you think you would leave that seat in place if you had a kitchenette on the left wall?
Good point about the coals in the stove. For boats,, they remove the flue exhaust cap and a plug/cap goes over the pipe to prevent downdraft while moving. Perhaps for the stove itself, if it sat in a stainless box like cabinet with a fold up lid/door, that might work? I just happen to have a 16 gauge stainless box that might be about the right size!!
And yes, those windows... I wish they were pop out. Have you ever thought about screens for the door openings? I saw a video where some guy used magnets glued around the edges of a cut screen that covered the door openings. he just rolled it up when ready to move.
That is not the Big Buddy is it? I keep seeing people leaving one of the center seats in place. That's starting to become appealing to me! Do you think you would leave that seat in place if you had a kitchenette on the left wall?
Good point about the coals in the stove. For boats,, they remove the flue exhaust cap and a plug/cap goes over the pipe to prevent downdraft while moving. Perhaps for the stove itself, if it sat in a stainless box like cabinet with a fold up lid/door, that might work? I just happen to have a 16 gauge stainless box that might be about the right size!!
And yes, those windows... I wish they were pop out. Have you ever thought about screens for the door openings? I saw a video where some guy used magnets glued around the edges of a cut screen that covered the door openings. he just rolled it up when ready to move.
#22
I wonder if a person can glue fabric over the ridged insulation board? That section you see over the doors is just 3/16 paneling with fabric glued on it. The screws at the bottom just pulled the wood around.
That is not the Big Buddy is it? I keep seeing people leaving one of the center seats in place. That's starting to become appealing to me! Do you think you would leave that seat in place if you had a kitchenette on the left wall?
Good point about the coals in the stove. For boats,, they remove the flue exhaust cap and a plug/cap goes over the pipe to prevent downdraft while moving. Perhaps for the stove itself, if it sat in a stainless box like cabinet with a fold up lid/door, that might work? I just happen to have a 16 gauge stainless box that might be about the right size!!
And yes, those windows... I wish they were pop out. Have you ever thought about screens for the door openings? I saw a video where some guy used magnets glued around the edges of a cut screen that covered the door openings. he just rolled it up when ready to move.
That is not the Big Buddy is it? I keep seeing people leaving one of the center seats in place. That's starting to become appealing to me! Do you think you would leave that seat in place if you had a kitchenette on the left wall?
Good point about the coals in the stove. For boats,, they remove the flue exhaust cap and a plug/cap goes over the pipe to prevent downdraft while moving. Perhaps for the stove itself, if it sat in a stainless box like cabinet with a fold up lid/door, that might work? I just happen to have a 16 gauge stainless box that might be about the right size!!
And yes, those windows... I wish they were pop out. Have you ever thought about screens for the door openings? I saw a video where some guy used magnets glued around the edges of a cut screen that covered the door openings. he just rolled it up when ready to move.
The seat could be left in place with a kitchenette. It would depend on how deep you made the kitchenette though. I have traveled with the seat and without it. With up to 2 people I remove it. Since my front seats swivel 180* i just turn them around. The space is better than the extra seating. I have left the seat in when it is me and 2 of my sons going somewhere due to seating requirements. I have 2 small beds that go in the back and my youngest is still small enough that he can easily sleep sideways on the floor behind the front seats. I use a hitch mount cargo carrier for as many items as I can and only keep items that make sense in the van with us, such as food/heater/laptop/drinks etc.
My finished curtian plan will have them roll up over the windows and use snaps to secure them when they are down. All the windows that open will have a screen the rolls down as well. I worked with a guy who did the door/magnet/screen thing in his Sprinter van. It worked out well for him, but buying enough strong magnets was very expensive. I would only do it if I have a good source for them, although it would be nice to be able to leave the doors open and not worry about bugs.
#23
Perhaps I will insulate and then start with something like the Mr Buddy heater and see how it works out.
I was looking at some pics of the framing and the 3rd gen vans have pretty simple framing in them. That along with the windows I have, there is really not that much to insulate as far as walls go. It looks like those ribs/braces are pretty thick, maybe 2 1/3 or 3".
Interesting I had read that Polyiso has a R value of 6 per inch and many people recommend it...BUT according to this article,
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...foam-beats-r-6
extruded polystyrene (XPS) is rated at R-5 per inch, it performs better than R-6 polyiso in cold temperatures
Here is another comment about polyiso
http://www.homeconstructionimproveme...lation-values/
Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate are both closed-cell foams. They contain low-conductivity gases in the cells (usually one of the HCFC or CFC gases.) The higher R-Values (R 7.0 to 8.0) are the result of thermal resistance of the gases in the cells. This can lead to a couple of disadvantages including: off gassing of HCFC or CFC gases, and reduced R Value over time as the gas escapes.
https://greenbuildingsolutions.org/b...r-environment/
Expanded polystyrene
During the production of expanded polystyrene insulation, neither chlorofluorcarbons (CFCs) nor hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs) are used. Therefore, the installed insulation does not experience off-gassing that may effect indoor air quality (IAQ).
Here are the pics. The blue represents the windows..
I was looking at some pics of the framing and the 3rd gen vans have pretty simple framing in them. That along with the windows I have, there is really not that much to insulate as far as walls go. It looks like those ribs/braces are pretty thick, maybe 2 1/3 or 3".
Interesting I had read that Polyiso has a R value of 6 per inch and many people recommend it...BUT according to this article,
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...foam-beats-r-6
extruded polystyrene (XPS) is rated at R-5 per inch, it performs better than R-6 polyiso in cold temperatures
Here is another comment about polyiso
http://www.homeconstructionimproveme...lation-values/
Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate are both closed-cell foams. They contain low-conductivity gases in the cells (usually one of the HCFC or CFC gases.) The higher R-Values (R 7.0 to 8.0) are the result of thermal resistance of the gases in the cells. This can lead to a couple of disadvantages including: off gassing of HCFC or CFC gases, and reduced R Value over time as the gas escapes.
https://greenbuildingsolutions.org/b...r-environment/
Expanded polystyrene
During the production of expanded polystyrene insulation, neither chlorofluorcarbons (CFCs) nor hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs) are used. Therefore, the installed insulation does not experience off-gassing that may effect indoor air quality (IAQ).
Here are the pics. The blue represents the windows..
#24
You can definitely get more insulating done in a panel van, but I like having windows.
I haven't camped in extremely cold weather. From experience I know that the blackout curtain do a lot to help keep it cooler inside when the sun is out and its warm. A ceiling fan can help as well. It gets rid of the hot air by the ceiling and pulls in air through any open windows.
One thing to consider when looking at different types of insulation/foam is that you don't want it to hold moisture next to metal due to rust issues. This is one of the big reasons why spray foam is to be avoided (I believe it also has corrosive chemicals). It is also the reason why it is important to use the reflectix on the bare metal prior to adding the insulation matting. It keeps the matting dry from condensation, and if the matting does get any moisture in it from leaks etc the reflectix provides a moisture barrier between it an the metal.
I haven't camped in extremely cold weather. From experience I know that the blackout curtain do a lot to help keep it cooler inside when the sun is out and its warm. A ceiling fan can help as well. It gets rid of the hot air by the ceiling and pulls in air through any open windows.
One thing to consider when looking at different types of insulation/foam is that you don't want it to hold moisture next to metal due to rust issues. This is one of the big reasons why spray foam is to be avoided (I believe it also has corrosive chemicals). It is also the reason why it is important to use the reflectix on the bare metal prior to adding the insulation matting. It keeps the matting dry from condensation, and if the matting does get any moisture in it from leaks etc the reflectix provides a moisture barrier between it an the metal.
#25
If you are thinking about a "Buddy Heater" then you need to act fast. Cabella's has them on sale and a supply of factory refurbs. I wanted one last year and the sold out in a week. Here's where to go:
Mr Buddy Heater
Mr Buddy Heater
#26
Thanks Jeff. After reading your post I just remembered a place called Northern tools and looked at their prices. Do you have a Northern Tools near you?
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...sSearch=173690
Cheaper then Cabella's for new ones. Northern does not sell reconditioned ones. I checked into the Mr Buddy last year when I thought I had furnace problems.
I have read that the inline filter is a must. Lack of the filter might be why they seen to have supplies of refurbished ones, they just needed cleaned out.
Lucky for me (sometimes) I tend to procrastinate. My central furnace is 35 years old and it is almost impossible to find parts for it as the company was bought out. I was dropping a friend off at his house and noticed his neighbor was having their furnace replaced. The old one was sitting outside and was the exact same furnace as mine! I was able to scavenge the flame spreader, thermal switches, and burner tube. Now I have more money to sink into my van!
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...sSearch=173690
Cheaper then Cabella's for new ones. Northern does not sell reconditioned ones. I checked into the Mr Buddy last year when I thought I had furnace problems.
I have read that the inline filter is a must. Lack of the filter might be why they seen to have supplies of refurbished ones, they just needed cleaned out.
Lucky for me (sometimes) I tend to procrastinate. My central furnace is 35 years old and it is almost impossible to find parts for it as the company was bought out. I was dropping a friend off at his house and noticed his neighbor was having their furnace replaced. The old one was sitting outside and was the exact same furnace as mine! I was able to scavenge the flame spreader, thermal switches, and burner tube. Now I have more money to sink into my van!
#27
Yes I like having windows too! I have thought about the newer type tinting but that stuff is ridiculously expensive. A problem with designing my layout is that if I use a kitchenette behind the drivers seat, I would have to use a low counter or loose the two windows right behind the drivers seat.
Another option I thought about is to build a slid out couch bed that would go on the side and put the kitchen in the rear of the van. My 85 van has a nice rear seat that converts into a bed. Instead of a scissor type seat, the back lifts up and folds to the front making a single bed and is fairly comfortable.
When my father built his van he didn’t use a power vent but the installed 2 standard roll up vents and the van has a pop up sun roof in the front along with the fact that all the windows are pop out windows. Venting will defiantly be a problem in my van with the non pop out windows. I see screens and a power vent before summer.. I would like a second roof vent but that might interfere with solar.
And yes thanks to everyone's replies, I will use reflectex o the walls..
Another option I thought about is to build a slid out couch bed that would go on the side and put the kitchen in the rear of the van. My 85 van has a nice rear seat that converts into a bed. Instead of a scissor type seat, the back lifts up and folds to the front making a single bed and is fairly comfortable.
When my father built his van he didn’t use a power vent but the installed 2 standard roll up vents and the van has a pop up sun roof in the front along with the fact that all the windows are pop out windows. Venting will defiantly be a problem in my van with the non pop out windows. I see screens and a power vent before summer.. I would like a second roof vent but that might interfere with solar.
And yes thanks to everyone's replies, I will use reflectex o the walls..
#28
Yes I like having windows too! I have thought about the newer type tinting but that stuff is ridiculously expensive.
I have read that the inline filter is a must. Lack of the filter might be why they seen to have supplies of refurbished ones, they just needed cleaned out.
I have read that the inline filter is a must. Lack of the filter might be why they seen to have supplies of refurbished ones, they just needed cleaned out.
I have heard the same thing about the filter on the Buddy heaters. Not so much an issue if you are using the small propane tanks, but the larger ones require a regulator and filter.
#29
I used reflectics against the metal wall, then the 2" thick green insulation board covering it with luan leaving a gap at the floor, the ceiling I did the same but could only get in 1" green stuff. I have slept in the mountains 2 years in October, the insulation made a big difference, I've not done the doors yet.
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