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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Adjustable Brake Pedal

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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 08:44 AM
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Adjustable Brake Pedal

Is anyone else using anything to adjust their brake pedal?

I was trying to figure out a way to adjust my brake pedal and i came across the first pic but the price is like $60 dollars, way to much for that.

So i was going to cut a piece of metal just a little bit longer then the one that was in the truck(second pic, metal bar), but then i found the piece thats in the second pic thats adjustable and the holes are almost the same size as the one that was in the truck. do you think it would work or has others figured out a different way then buying the 60 part?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dwwindham
Is anyone else using anything to adjust their brake pedal?

I was trying to figure out a way to adjust my brake pedal and i came across the first pic but the price is like $60 dollars, way to much for that.

So i was going to cut a piece of metal just a little bit longer then the one that was in the truck(second pic, metal bar), but then i found the piece thats in the second pic thats adjustable and the holes are almost the same size as the one that was in the truck. do you think it would work or has others figured out a different way then buying the 60 part?

Thanks
Looks like the input rod for a Dentside brake booster with a bellcrank mounting bracket mechanism. There are (at least) two different lengths of those flat input rods --longer version, shorter version.

Probably wouldn't be hard to cut one out of some 1/4" thick by 2" wide flat bar. Just make it to the length needed to get from the bellcrank assembly to the hole on the brake pedal --you would just have to make sure the pedal doesn't hit the floor before the MC travel runs out.

The hole on the end where the brake pedal bolt/bushing goes is 5/8" diameter.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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I was dreaming about this too and thought I would try a bolt with a welded eyelet on the end.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 10:54 AM
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ultraranger, you are correct, the guy that had it before me converted everything in the front to disc brakes and power brakes.

But the brakes just didn't seem right, like the pedal is setting to close to the floor and would always go to the floor at a stoplight, so i replaced everything and i mean everything and it still does it. I even had shop bleed and look at the brakes, they said the brake system looks good and they only thing they could figure out is the brake pedal need to be a little higher and maybe the vacuum to the booster is to low(which i have not checked, but going to).

Does any one know the measurement from the floor to the brake pedal?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Do you know what the hole-to-hole span of the flat input rod needs to be, to connect up to the brake pedal?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:46 PM
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Im not sure but i will measure it when i get home tonight.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 07:05 PM
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I had traced off a flat input rod pattern onto a 1/4" thick x 2" wide flat bar but, I didn't have an application to actually measure or make it to, to change its length so, it never got cut out.

Subsequently, I had used that same piece of flat bar more recently to trace off the pattern of the arms from a factory Z-bar, to build a Z-bar from, using a larger piece of DOM tubing for the installation of spherical bearings into the ends of the tube.

The piece of flat bar seen to the right.
















It probably wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate another flat input rod, whether it needed to be shorter or longer than the current one you have.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 08:04 PM
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dang i wish i could do metal work like that, im more a woodworker.

the flat piece that i have is 6 1/2 inches from center to center hole.

I may try to use the piece i have thats in the pic above the orginal piece to see if it even corrects the issue, i have drilled the holes out so everything will fit and i will be able to adjust it.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 08:20 PM
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Once I pulled the whole pedal assembly from a 1970, stick shift. Now I can't remember if it was the clutch or brake but there was a pedal height adjustment, like maybe an offset cam?? I can't remember much now except I was intrigued those trucks had that adjustment and I had never heard or read anything about it.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Once I pulled the whole pedal assembly from a 1970, stick shift. Now I can't remember if it was the clutch or brake but there was a pedal height adjustment, like maybe an offset cam?? I can't remember much now except I was intrigued those trucks had that adjustment and I had never heard or read anything about it.
I'm aware that the Slicks had an eccentric bolt where it attaches the input rod of a manual MC or, the input rod to a brake booster, to the brake pedal. This gives some adjustment of the pedal height up/down, relative to the foot pad distance off the floor but, I've never encountered these eccentric bolts in a Bumpside or a Dentside. The truck you mention may have come with that bolt or, someone may have taken one from a Slick and installed it in the '70 model truck.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dwwindham
dang i wish i could do metal work like that, im more a woodworker.

the flat piece that i have is 6 1/2 inches from center to center hole.

I may try to use the piece i have thats in the pic above the orginal piece to see if it even corrects the issue, i have drilled the holes out so everything will fit and i will be able to adjust it.
I'm not a machinist. I just tried to use a sensible approach to making the parts for the beefed up Z-bar.

I just used a portaband to cut the angled sides off the flat bars, a hole saw to cut the large holes at one end and a 3/8" drill bit the make the small hole at the other end of the arms. It was pretty simple to make.

 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 08:08 AM
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Maybe i will try the turnbuckle and make sure its going to work and then if it does i can use the turnbuckle to get the correct measurements to make the new rod.



Thanks
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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This may not even pertain to the issue but a lot of older vehicles had the brake pedal ride a lot closer to the floor with power brakes.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
This may not even pertain to the issue but a lot of older vehicles had the brake pedal ride a lot closer to the floor with power brakes.
In the case of '67-'70 Mustangs with factory power brakes, they used a longer brake pedal and the pivot (fulcrum) point was moved up higher on the pedal support to reduce the pedal ratio, compared to a manual brake pedal setup.

The only trucks I know of that had a different brake pedal pivot point location, on the pedal support, was on some '78/'79 model Dentsides.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 03:24 PM
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Looks like it didnt help much, maybe its the booster or master cylinder that is the issue.

Ultraranger i have a question for you.

I have been reading some of your post and i may get a new master cylinder and was thinking of getting the 95 explore one that you have or the ranger one, did you swap out the reservoirs for ones that are even because your looked even? I currently only have single booster.
 
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