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I've been thinking about this since you posted. When the operator is discussing what sounds like, you need to make sure the truck doesn't downshift... How did you accomplish that, and what gear did you test in?
I just meant for keeping it in gear. I think a 2nd gear test may be worth a shot. That is, if you put it in 2 and it stays there. Then you could start at a lower rpm. The problem is with the roller at a lower starting speed, you could smoke the tires when you nail it.
Anytime you have a locking convertor, you want it to be locked on the dyno. You can't get it to lock in 2nd unless you have your own control over the convertor.
Indeed a user lockup switch is risk. If you forget to turn it off then it will damage the trans, as the e4od relies on the converter to pump fluid at slow speeds, i.e. 1st gear.
You can change the lockup scheme safely via a tuner/piggyback but you can never lock in 1st.
Plus locking it in any gears other than 3rd and OD, you lose the multiplication factor it gives from the stator trying to catch up to the turbine. The only time it's really really useful is on a dyno or if you are racing and already close to redline and it could drop revs a couple hundred before the line so you don't have to shift to OD and lose excessive TQ.
Plus, there is always the risk of f WOT activating of the clutch shearing the input shaft right out of the front drum or just snapping the input all together.
*****. So it sounds like we're kind of out of luck on the most accurate way to measure power at the wheels, sans this risky controller, maybe a less risky tuning option, or I'm assuming a manual valve body. Which I have no idea if that's available for these trannies. I bet there's more in David's truck than what we're seeing.
*****. So it sounds like we're kind of out of luck on the most accurate way to measure power at the wheels, sans this risky controller, maybe a less risky tuning option, or I'm assuming a manual valve body. Which I have no idea if that's available for these trannies. I bet there's more in David's truck than what we're seeing.
3rd gear (or 1:1 for any Trans) is the most accurate for a myriad of reasons that we could fill pages discussing as it relates to physics and math.
Long story short, 1:1 robs the least amount of hp because the trans (especially manuals) need to utilize the least amount of spinning parts to achieve 1:1. Furthermore, the higher the final drive ratio (gearbox and axle ratios taken into account here), the more hp is being robbed through the drivetrain *and* the faster acceleration of engine parts (here's a topic we could really spend pages on as to the physics behind why this is). Pretty much all transmissions have a 1:1 gear ratio, but the other ratios vary wildly from transmission to transmission, so if every shop dyno'd vehicles ***** nilly in any gear, the amount of hp being lost would also vary wildly from vehicle to vehicle....so, overdrive would mathematically yield the highest hp readings, but there would be more lost in the trans to yield the od ratio.
So, you can see, consistency using the 1:1 ratio is just as important as achieving a dyno reading that is most accurate (least amount lost in the drivetrain and engine)
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