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I found the casting numbers on the block. They are E0AE D30. So that means it's a 1980 block right? I also noticed the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and runs smooth. So does this mean it already has a cam since the H. O. didn't come out until 82 I think.
So I have been eye balling part number 31-255-5 on comp cams website. Does this cam also work with a carburetor? Also, I'm looking for one with a bit of a lope if I can while remaining with good torque of possible.
On a side note, where can I find the numbers on the block to verify my motor? Is it possible to see them with the motor still in the vehicle?
Actually any EFI grind makes a carb more responsive. The stock Ford F4TE cam in the roller 351 works great with a carb. Do yourself a favor and build a 351, don't waste your time on a 302.
I found the casting numbers on the block. They are E0AE D30. So that means it's a 1980 block right? I also noticed the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and runs smooth. So does this mean it already has a cam since the H. O. didn't come out until 82 I think.
Bingo ! You've got THE worst 302 block to build. It's missing 16 pounds of iron that Ford removed from those blocks vs the 70's blocks (120 lbs vs 136 for the 70's castings) The roller 5.0 blocks had 6 lbs but back in to strengthen the cylinder bores and decks.
Bingo ! You've got THE worst 302 block to build. It's missing 16 pounds of iron that Ford removed from those blocks vs the 70's blocks (120 lbs vs 136 for the 70's castings) The roller 5.0 blocks had 6 lbs but back in to strengthen the cylinder bores and decks.
That really dampens my hopes for this engine lol. That is good to know tho. Guess I'll be looking for a crate 351 or would it be cheaper (better) to get a block and build one.
A crate motor with a warranty is never a bad choice , or if you want to build your own get a 351 with a roller cam . These motors came in 94-96 trucks , if you search you can find one cheap.
As money allows then buy the parts you need for thr rebuild , once you have the parts have the block machined then assemble or have it done .
Depending on the quality of parts chosen a crate motor can be less expensive.
A crate motor with a warranty is never a bad choice , or if you want to build your own get a 351 with a roller cam . These motors came in 94-96 trucks , if you search you can find one cheap.
As money allows then buy the parts you need for thr rebuild , once you have the parts have the block machined then assemble or have it done .
Depending on the quality of parts chosen a crate motor can be less expensive.
The roller 351 was also used in the 97 F250. I have one sittin on my engine stand. These are the old pre super duty bodied trucks.
I am currently looking at getting a 351w roller block. Any ideas on which way to build the motor? Build it one piece at a time or just get a complete top end kit? Which would be the better outcome in terms of performance? I still want to shoot for the 350-400 hp range with around 400 torque. Should be pretty easy on a roller 351. Still looking for a slight lope at idle but good driving manners, but if I have to sacrifice manners, I am ok with that. Also would like to build it for a supercharger in case I add one later down the road. Rather build it that way right now instead of having to do it later.
I have found the 351w. It has 385hp and 410tq. Any recommendations on a tranny to back it up since it will destroy my aod. I am slowly converting this truck to 4wd so a tranny that will work for both would be nice.
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