B1342 "ECU is defective" which I believe is related to my permanent-resident ABS light

P0141 "O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2" I think I've had this code forever...

P0300 "random cylinder misfires detected"
P0306 cylinder 6
P0316 misfire on startup

P0600 "loss of serial communication link" ?!? what the heck?!?!?

p1489 "PCV Heater Control Circuit Fault" THIS ONE I REALLY WANT SOME ADVICE ON FROM YOU GUYS

P1000 "On Board Diagnostic System Readiness Test Not Complete"

p2105 "Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Shutdown" based on the wording I agree this is what happened to me 5 times while driving today...

P2107 "Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor" THIS ONE I REALLY WANT SOME ADVICE ON FROM YOU GUYS


My description of the symptoms basically matches the codes above... notice a small engine miss 1-2 days ago and it got worse and worse over the next few hundred miles. Got really bad. Then 4-5 times the wrench light on the dash would flash and the gas pedal wouldn't "work" (no increase of engine speed). I turned on the Hazard lights and restarted the engine and then it would work again, although still misfiring...

What do you all think?

 

I'm on mobile so forgive me for the basic question. Do you have a 2V or 3V? PCV heater could be directly related to the PCV valve on the valve cover. Fixing such could clear a few of the codes.

How is the other basic maintenance? Plugs, filters and MAF clean?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/987666-a-word-of-warning-about-the-pcv-valves-2.html

 

It's a 2v.
spark plugs have at least 200,000 miles on them. They might be original for all I know. I bought the van at about 113,000 miles and now have 314,000 and I have never had them out.
basically all maintenance is lacking on my van. I do oil changes but every 12 or 15,000 miles and air filter about once a year, and repair things as they break.

and I'm pretty sure the PCV valve is on the throttle body area, and has a pair of coolant hoses attached.

 

With that much stuff going on all at once, let's start with the basics.

Check the battery voltage before you start it and report back. Start it, and turn on the headlights. Do the lights flicker when the engine is idling?

With all those codes, I'm thinking voltage problems, like the alternator diodes are fried and the voltage is pulsating/noisy, or the alternator has just died and the battery voltage is low.

Once we make sure that's not the case, we can move on.

 

i feel pretty confident this isn't the case but I'll do it.

If the battery is bad I feel like it couldn't start the van 20-30 times like it successfully has.

Another clue thiugh basically supports your idea: a couple times recently I've heard the power door locks attempt to lock while I'm moving.
Normally they auto lock when I first reach about 10mph. But those recent issues has been well after I've been at speed and slowed (repeat repeat repeat etc) for many minutes of driving.

 

Engine off (dome light on) 12.79volts
engine off headlights on 12.4V
engine on 13.8V
headlights are burning steady.

Also just got the codes pulled again (after leaving the battery disconnected overnight, then driving 40 miles city, with 4 key off cycles) :

P0141
P1489
P2105

i wonder what happened to all the other codes.. specifically the misfire codes. This thing has an obvious miss intermittently at idle and 100% during driving.

 

Just wanted to make sure it wasn't voltage related - noise from the alternator, if it's bad enough, can screw with a lot of things.

You said you had the O2 code before all this started?

 

Wow, sounds like it's time for some TLC.

Preform general maintenance on all items and report back.

Plugs, coils, fuel filter, pcv, injectors, etc.

But I suspect you have had a miss for a while. It takes alot to through a miss fire code. The code tripped when the 2nd or 3rd cylinder went down. I suspect you have at least 3 cylinders missing. Could be coils, plugs, or injectors.

 

yes sir some kind of catalyst code. Not sure which code to be honest.
Because I had the catalytic converters removed a couple years ago.

 

"perform general maintenance and report back" lol.
I know you're correct but man that's impossible. I realize my 52 months/201,000 miles have "paid for" itself in dollars per mile. Especially considering the lack of maintenance situation.
But I don't have the time to spare for this truck to be off duty even if the work was free. If I had such time to spare I'd have changed the oil more often, and other things like spark plugs etc...
time is killing me. I spend all my time chasing dollars.

Anyway, I just paid off this vehicle recently and I don't want another loan. And I have a grand saved for emergencies but I'm hoping to preserve most of that money (with the help of FTE members).
If I can just get another 6 months out of this thing...

I just spent 20minutes shopping for "Ford V10" ANYthing vehicles. The low priced ones are suspiciously low, the mid priced ones ($8-14K) are still way out of my budget. High priced trucks are for rich guys and fools.

Im screwed.

 

Ok, I see.

Go to ebay and buy the cheap Chinese coils....10 for $50 or so.

Buy spark plugs for about $30.

1 hour labor to R&R plugs and coils.

Should work for a while.

That the best I can say, other than looking at injector clips and maybe you will get lucky and 1 or 2 are popped off due to the them being broken.

Than all you would need to do is wire tie them in place.

 

Here's the fancy information the Ford dealer provided for me.
He said this definitively proves I have a bad coil/plug/boot or injector. On cylinder 6.
Time to get my hands dirty and my back sore.

 

Not too dirty, cylinder 6 is the drivers side front. That one of the easiest to get to.

 

Good, no?

 

Ok I have the coil removed. It appears to be perfect condition. Including the boot and spring.

No moisture in the spark plug hole. And very very little debris. I blew it out with compressed air. And then sprayed in some WD40.

Trying to remember if spark plugs should be removed with engine hot or cold... this is warm. Ish.

Im thinking I'll use my 1/4" Dewalt impact to lightly unscrew the plug. I learnt somewhere on the interwebs that the hammering action is better than raw-twisting torque. And I'm scared of the "fusion" of 4years/200,000 miles.

I wish i had more tools and time. I'd love to remove and clean the throttle body. Also I was wrong earlier when I said the PCV is on the throttle body: I see something there, unidentifiable. But I believe I see the actual PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover. With a wire connected to it. I'm curious....

i hvent wrenched in many years. It's like riding a bike though. Except now I'm smarter.