Dry weight or dry pin wt only comes into play when it is built. It will never be that light again.


Some toy haulers have light pin wt's then others because of the garage. Add stuff to that and the front of the trailer gets lighter.

 

Well...I'll be the dissenter. I think it depends entirely on the trailer and you really need to look at the truck tires. I have the exact truck you are considering. I also have a 43' 5th wheel that has a factory dry weight of 14K and a dry pin of 2600.

So there is no speculation...I had this at the CAT scales fully loaded for camping and with 3 people in the truck. Full gas and a HEAVY Pullrite Autoslider and 100 Lb. Tonneau cover (I also have air bags which add weight.)

I was UNDER my total GCWR, I was UNDER my tire max weight rating, I was SLIGHLTY over my total GVWR....by 300 LBS. - I probably could have fixed that with a little better loading of the trailer. The Max trailer weight rating is 17K and I was under.

Yes, I was close on everything.....But only over on GVWR of the truck (Due to pin weight).

Now, I will say this: I have added disc brakes to the trailer....I would not want to tow without them. The truck tows this thing beautifully and I have been in weather with it.

Now, would a dually be better.....No question about it....However, I have yet to feel the need for more truck and according to a CAT scale I am mostly within the stated limits. As others have said: If 17K is unloaded weight.....Then you are way over and need more truck...If it is loaded max weight....Then you have to look at the dry pin weight of the trailer and decide how close to or over the limits you want to be. I think the rear tires are the main limiting factor for Pin weight.

PS - NOT an RV salesman.

 

There is no real way to answer the OP's question as every RV scales differently. Mine has a 21k GVWR and it's weights are all within SRW 350 ratings. Others that weigh much less are over SRW ratings. What we do know is it's under a SRW's GCWR (28,700#) and 5th tow (20,600#) ratings. What you can't know without weighing the pin is whether you will exceed rear GAWR, truck GVWR, or rear tire ratings. Only a trip to the scales can tell you that. Either that or a check with a Sherline scale.

OP, how about some more info on the proposed RV? Make and model?

 

My pull vehicle will also be used as a daily use vehicle also. The only real extra weight in the truck other than myself would be light. Any additional weight could be placed in the chase vehicle. So really it would be safe to say additional weight in pull vehicle would be 300 (me & cargo). Also include hitch @ 200 lbs for an approximate total of 500 lbs.

 

Purposed RV: 2017/2018 Vilano 375FL, dry weight 14,500 lbs, dry pin 3,300 lbs, GVWR 16k, 40 foot.
Proposed pull vehicle: 2017/2018 F350, SRW, Crew Cab, Strd Bed, 4x4, diesel, Platinum.

When pulling the RV it will only be one person the driver. We will be using a chase vehicle. Any extra weight would basically be optional except the hitch. So the extra weight in pull vehicle would be approximately 450 lbs (driver 200 + hitch 150 + 100).

Thanks karl!

 

That dry pin is going to get ya if you want to stay under the trucks GVWR. The truck will weigh 8500-8800# based on truck options, with the hitch and you in and the fuel tank full. That only leaves 2700# for pin if you go with the worst case scenario. So, it's going to be up to you if you feel comfortable going that much over GVWR. And, as others pointed out, many dry pin weights go up significantly when loaded for travel so you could be further over. So, while I'm the furthest thing from the weight police you will find on FTE, that might be a little heavy for my taste. I purposely shopped my RV for pin weight first considering I knew I never wanted to own a DRW. I would spend some time looking at comparable floorplans from other manufacturers. When I bought mine, other manufacturers offered identical floorplans with pins in excess of 1k more. It's all about axle placement. Again, that's just me though. Lots of folks would tow what you want with a SRW, never post about it on the net, never get grief because they didn't, and live long and happy lives being overweight...LOL

 

I think you will be way over on your pin weight and GVWR for the truck. That pin weight already exceeds the CCC for the truck without hitch and loading the trailer. My guess is you will be over by 1000 lbs or more.

Also, according to those numbers that trailer only has a 1500 lb. CCC. Is that correct? Seems very low and I think you will have trouble staying within those limits with standard cargo. Doesn't seem like it but by the time you add tools, grill, food, and everything else you will eat that up and more in no time.

Will the 350 SRW do it? Absolutely.... but only you can decide how far over the ratings you are willing to accept. I think you will exceed the tire ratings of 7500 lbs....which for me is a disqualifier.

 

I agree. Tires and GAWR are my two limits.

 

XX33 on that one.

 

Purposed RV: 2017/2018 Vilano 375FL, dry weight 14,500 lbs, dry pin 3,300 lbs, GVWR 16k, 40 foot.
Proposed pull vehicle: 2017/2018 F350, SRW, Crew Cab, Strd Bed, 4x4, diesel, Platinum.

When pulling the RV it will only be one person the driver. We will be using a chase vehicle. Any extra weight would basically be optional except the hitch. So the extra weight in pull vehicle would be approximately 450 lbs (driver 200 + hitch 150 + 100).

Thanks karl!

I guess there isn't anything I could do to the SRW like more springs , different rear axel etc? I appreciate your knowledge karl and time! Thanks!

 

Thanks for your response! What would you suggest for a good quality RV that a SRW F350 could do comfortably? We was looking at the Grand Design toy hauler.

 

NeoRaptor,

You've got me curious now...what kind of vehicle is the "chase vehicle".

Sounds like you have use for a toyhauler so a class C camper is probably out.

 

Anyone know the approximate payload on a Platinum F450?

 

It's a 2014 Honda Civic SI 2 dr......

 

I am a huge fan of XLR. These things are all put together with glue and staples in 3 days so there will be some fit and finish issues when they start going down the road. Remember, they have to survive an earthquake ever time they are towed. That said, XLR is one of the best in the industry for taking care of you after the sale. Grand Design has an outstanding reputation as well. From what I hear, their recent buy out by Winnebago has not changed their support level which is great! I would go to both of their websites and look at each floorplan and it's dry pin weight. I can't speak for GD but XLR is known to be VERY accurate. My rig was within 50# of it's dry weight with the LP full, batteries in, basement storage full, and packed for travel. Being that it's a toy hauler, it only gets lighter when you load the garage. On a TH, try to find floorplans with a dry pin under 3k. If you can't find one to a scale, go on specific forums for the brand you want and see if you can find a member who has scaled theirs so you have a point of reference on what the loaded pin will be. If you can find one at a dealer, ask them if they have a Sherline scale to measure the pin for you.

When you're ready to buy, remember that the MSRP on an RV is nonsense and you can't shop it like a car or truck. 35% off is a MINIMUM and that's on a special order RV getting it exactly the way you want. Leftover or sale rigs should be discounted further. I bought from and send people to Jeff Couch's RV Nation in OH. They do about 37% off every rig with no negotiation. Special orders arrive in about 8 weeks unless you want full body paint which tacks on another 2 weeks. My closest dealers wouldn't come within $9500 of Couch's so I made the 800 mile trip each way to pick it up. I love a good road trip anyways (if I didn't, I wouldn't be in to RVing...) so it was actually a fun plus to my buying experience....