Super Easy Brake Light Switch Conversion
#1
Super Easy Brake Light Switch Conversion
Hi All!
Dunnoo if this has ever been covered here but if it has consider it a review.
Just got in from replacing my failed hydraulic brake light switch with a simple mechanical one.
My main reason for changing to this switch type was I am planning on doing the Vicky front end conversion at some time over the coming winter and am most likely gonna have to re plumb the brake lines anyhow.
This conversion uses NAPA PN# "SL169"
It simply involves removing the rubber bumper off of the brake swing arm
inserting the SL169 in the square hole that the rubber came out of and adjusting the tin nuts so the tip of the switch comes in contact with the swingarm body assembly where the rubber bumper used to contact.
Wiring it up simply involves either extending from or removing the old "Bullet" type connectors or soldering and shrink tubing (recommended) enough new wire to run thru the firewall into the cab and to the new switch and installing new spade type connectors to plug onto the new SL169 switch.
whole thing took me about 45 minutes (including trynna find tools i hadn't put away when I last worked in the garage back before summer)
See...!
almost looks like it belongs there!
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 M-100 Panel & 64 econoline p/u
Dunnoo if this has ever been covered here but if it has consider it a review.
Just got in from replacing my failed hydraulic brake light switch with a simple mechanical one.
My main reason for changing to this switch type was I am planning on doing the Vicky front end conversion at some time over the coming winter and am most likely gonna have to re plumb the brake lines anyhow.
This conversion uses NAPA PN# "SL169"
It simply involves removing the rubber bumper off of the brake swing arm
inserting the SL169 in the square hole that the rubber came out of and adjusting the tin nuts so the tip of the switch comes in contact with the swingarm body assembly where the rubber bumper used to contact.
Wiring it up simply involves either extending from or removing the old "Bullet" type connectors or soldering and shrink tubing (recommended) enough new wire to run thru the firewall into the cab and to the new switch and installing new spade type connectors to plug onto the new SL169 switch.
whole thing took me about 45 minutes (including trynna find tools i hadn't put away when I last worked in the garage back before summer)
See...!
almost looks like it belongs there!
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 M-100 Panel & 64 econoline p/u
#4
Great minds think alike! I just did almost the same thing on my '58, however, I drilled an additional hole just for the switch. On the original applications that switch was never used as a pedal bumper and probably not designed for that. Since we don't put a lot of mileage on our trucks, you will probably be fine using the switch for a stop but I wasn't comfortable with that on my own truck.
Lou Manglass
Lou Manglass
#5
Great minds think alike! I just did almost the same thing on my '58, however, I drilled an additional hole just for the switch. On the original applications that switch was never used as a pedal bumper and probably not designed for that. Since we don't put a lot of mileage on our trucks, you will probably be fine using the switch for a stop but I wasn't comfortable with that on my own truck.
Lou Manglass
Lou Manglass
#6
Lou Manglass
#7
For like $7 you can easily keep an extra switch on hand if the body of the switch does fail it only takes like 2 minutes to change it out anyways.
Mine doesn't seem to have a lotta pressure/force on it anyways, but saying that, I do have the Dodge/Bendix power brake booster & master setup.
Mikie
Near ottawa canada
58 M-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
Mine doesn't seem to have a lotta pressure/force on it anyways, but saying that, I do have the Dodge/Bendix power brake booster & master setup.
Mikie
Near ottawa canada
58 M-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
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