1992 E350 Engine Gremlins
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New User
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Livermore, CA
1992 E350 Engine Gremlins
I hope someone can help me out. I am the original owner of a 1992 E350 with 199,000 miles. This past week the 5.8L has started to run horrible - at all RPMs. It runs rough, barely idles, and misses and sputters at high RPM. I recently changed the rotor, cap, wires, and plugs as part of my routine maintenance. At the same time I also replaced all of the vacuum lines, and they still look fine. I have not been able to find any vacuum leaks. When the issue started (after the vehicle sat for about one month), I read the EECM-IV codes, which indicated a bad O2 sensor - running lean (code 172). I replaced the O2 sensor, but there was no change - it still runs like crap. The active DTL readings still indicate "out of range" O2 sensor readings at times, and valid lean readings at other times. I checked the wiring to the O2 sensor, and it checks out fine. During a later KOER diagnostic, the computer indicated a bad canister solenoid, which checked out fine when removed from the vehicle. Do I have a bad computer? stuck injectors? I would appreciate any help.
Doug
Doug
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
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Likes: 8
First, the Link to all the sensor tests.
Could be a couple of problems with the sensors, like the TPS, or more Likely an EGR problem. Link A sticking or plugged EGR valve will give you this same code with the O2 sensor.
At worst, pull the ECU out, and open the case, there are 3 capacitors on the board that if there leaking that green gunk, then you found the overall problem, and either replace the capacitors, or what I like is spending the few bucks and getting a re-man ECU that's re-programmed. Make sure the code numbers match from your OEM unit to the re-man unit.
And......you started in the right direction, replacing all the old rubber vacuum lines
Could be a couple of problems with the sensors, like the TPS, or more Likely an EGR problem. Link A sticking or plugged EGR valve will give you this same code with the O2 sensor.
At worst, pull the ECU out, and open the case, there are 3 capacitors on the board that if there leaking that green gunk, then you found the overall problem, and either replace the capacitors, or what I like is spending the few bucks and getting a re-man ECU that's re-programmed. Make sure the code numbers match from your OEM unit to the re-man unit.
And......you started in the right direction, replacing all the old rubber vacuum lines
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New User
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Livermore, CA
I pulled out the EGR, and it appeared to be functioning fine. Replaced it anyway, since it is so much work to get at it on a van. I had just replaced the TPS a few months ago. All other sensors checked out OK. So I pulled the ECU. Two of the three capacitors had leads that had completed corroded through. I think I will go with a new ECU.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
Go here and follow the most applicable diagnosis decision tree(s):
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
I pulled out the EGR, and it appeared to be functioning fine. Replaced it anyway, since it is so much work to get at it on a van. I had just replaced the TPS a few months ago. All other sensors checked out OK. So I pulled the ECU. Two of the three capacitors had leads that had completed corroded through. I think I will go with a new ECU.
Just a heads up........I don't know if a "new" ECU is even available???
I've gotten them thru Auto Zone, never a problem with the cardone re-man units.
When you order, make sure you have the exact code ID number from your original, and what's nice with AZ, is you can order, and do a core swap right on the counter, saving you the core cost. Plus AZ has a 1 year warranty.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Livermore, CA
Got a new (re-manufactured) ECU from NAPA and installed it. ID codes all matched perfectly. However, the problem continues. I also checked the fuel pressure and it is withing spec. The engine will not idle at all. It will start and accelerate by pumping the throttle, but will not keep running at a constant RPM unless the throttle is half way depressed, at which point it will run at about 1000 RPM. It does backfire on occasion like the timing is off, but I have not changed the timing since it started running bad. I cannot check the timing now as it runs so bad. I can't check vacuum either as it runs so bad. I have been wrenching on cars for 40 years and never been stumped like this.
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From: Livermore, CA
Problem Solved! It was the MAP sensor. Installed a new one and the engine runs perfectly. Not only was this the sensor that caused all of the problems, it was the easiest one to get to. Oh well. Summary of parts replaced - O2 sensor (old one was probably fine), Driver side Exhaust manifold (found it was cracked as part of solving other issues), EGR valve (old one was working fine, but once it was out, I was not going to put an old one back in - too much work), EGR position sensor (mounted on top of EGR), ECU (the old one definitely had problems with corroded capacitors), and finally the MAP sensor. The van now runs better than it has in a very long time.
Parts replaced just three months ago - EVR, TPS, cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Not too many sensors left to replace! I have owned this vehicle for 25 years, and it has been good to me for the most part. I plan to keep it for a while yet.
Parts replaced just three months ago - EVR, TPS, cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Not too many sensors left to replace! I have owned this vehicle for 25 years, and it has been good to me for the most part. I plan to keep it for a while yet.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: W (BY GOD) V
An O2 sensor is a service item and should have been replaced much earlier regardless.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
Glad to hear you got the problem solved
And......you know it's always the simple one that solves the problem. Last.
That MAP sensor is tricky, no code read out on it, and even if the vacuum in not present, it will tell the ECU and kill the fuel pump. Stumped me one on a fresh installed re-man 5.8.
Will all the new parts/sensors, your good to go for a long time
And......you know it's always the simple one that solves the problem. Last.
That MAP sensor is tricky, no code read out on it, and even if the vacuum in not present, it will tell the ECU and kill the fuel pump. Stumped me one on a fresh installed re-man 5.8.
Will all the new parts/sensors, your good to go for a long time
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