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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Constant Voltage at Coil????

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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 10:33 AM
  #16  
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hey guys, sorry i havnt gotten you all an update, i broke my wrist so i havnt checked out the truck like i was supposed too. I SHOULD have some time to play with it tonight as i have a friend coming over to help out where my hand is needed haha.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 11:07 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
You may have found the problem.
There is a path to the coil on the "I" wire at the solenoid. It is energized on starting to bypass the drop in the ballast resistor. Once the switch is dropped from start to run the voltage on the solenoid terminals goes away.
Chinese solenoids are a constant problem here. They are junk that are often dead out of the box or fail soon afterward. Motorcraft stuff is still available. Not cheap but good.
How the "I" wire got honked when you put in the new alternator, we can't tell you. You will have to do voltage checks.
Let us know what you find.

2X. This was my 1st though also.

Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
You guys need to think about this a little more.
The "I" on solenoid will have lower volts back feeding from the + side of the coil when running and a full 12 volts when starting, no volts when off.

Now if the solinoid was bad sending power it the "I" lug the starter would also be engaged. You can try a new solenoid but I bet it will not fix it.

This started when the 3G alt was added.
Recheck all the wiring to make sure it is right.
If that checks out remove all wires from alt and see if you still have power at coil.
If not bad diodes in alt.
Dave - - - -

It is curious that the problem started right after the 3G install.




Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Want to see if the solenoid is the cause? Easy remove the wire on the "I" lug of solenoid and see if you have power on the wire and then the solenoid. I bet you have it on the wire.
Now if you have not pulled the wires to the ALT do it and test the "I" wire for volts.


BTW I have seen ALT test ok, put out power, but back feed and keep motors run or a dash ALT light on.
And funny this all started after the ALT swap
Dave ----

2X on removing the "I" wire and seeing where the 12V is. Wire or "I" terminal. Not doubting you Dave, I just don't see how back feeding from the 3G can give that much power to the coil. If any at all. IMHO, I think it's a Chinese solenoid. The workings inside it prolly got cocked 1/2 way instead of all the way to the Start position. And can't release back to the at Rest position.
OP, if the solenoid is the problem I suggest you go straight to a Genuine Ford Motorcraft solenoid part number B6AZ11450B. Still available from Ford. I guarantee it isn't made in China crap.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 01:24 PM
  #18  
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Broken wrist?
That's the punchline for the joke about the old man who swallowed a half bottle of blue pills and the escort girl didn't show up.
Sorry.
OP, before you buy a new solenoid, pluck the "I" wire and see if 12 volts remains at the solenoid lug. If it goes away the problem is not the solenoid, as one of the posters above said.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 05:02 PM
  #19  
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Broke wrist? A 'friend' coming over to help where your hand goes? I sure hope yer friend is of the female persuasion and has a delicate touch....
 
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 05:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
Broken wrist?
That's the punchline for the joke about the old man who swallowed a half bottle of blue pills and the escort girl didn't show up.
Sorry.
OP, before you buy a new solenoid, pluck the "I" wire and see if 12 volts remains at the solenoid lug. If it goes away the problem is not the solenoid, as one of the posters above said.
Originally Posted by Filthy Beast
Broke wrist? A 'friend' coming over to help where your hand goes? I sure hope yer friend is of the female persuasion and has a delicate touch....
Man, you guys. Talk about Slapping a guy while he's down.

( Sorry Wreckless. I couldn't resist.)
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 10:35 AM
  #21  
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Hey guys, got this all sorted this weekend. Sometimes the simple answer is the answer, it was the solenoid the whole time. Pretty frustrating, here is a photo of the culprit, you can see where i have disconnected the alternator to make sure it isnt supplying any power, this photo is taken while the engine is off and key is out. the wiring is all put back together now so please ignore my unsighly mess hanging out there.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 12:58 PM
  #22  
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Good. You found a problem but I am not sure you have solved all your problems.
I am puzzled why the truck shuts off with constant power at the "I" terminal when the switch is off. I still think you have something miswired.

Anyway, China is getting better with their electronics. Usually their crap solenoids fail with power at both the "I" and "S" terminals. Now it is just the "I" terminal.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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Glad to see you've got it figured out. Again, I suggest getting a Genuine Ford one.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 01:03 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
Good. You found a problem but I am not sure you have solved all your problems.
I am puzzled why the truck shuts off with constant power at the "I" terminal when the switch is off. I still think you have something miswired.

Anyway, China is getting better with their electronics. Usually their crap solenoids fail with power at both the "I" and "S" terminals. Now it is just the "I" terminal.
John, Im not sure either, but the "I" terminal no longer has voltage when the truck is off, so tracking that down would be difficult, especially as it seems that everything on the ignition and charging system is functioning properly now.

I imagine the truck shut off when turned off due to the power to the fuel pump being cut (remember, my truck has aftermarket EFI).
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 01:24 PM
  #25  
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Aha! I got it. Methinks you solved the problem.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 02:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Glad to see you've got it figured out. Again, I suggest getting a Genuine Ford one.
The parts house I go to did not have a genuine ford (motorcraft) unit available, I will be ordering one sometime this week and keeping it on hand for when this one inevitably goes sour haha.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 03:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Wrecklesswisdom
The parts house I go to did not have a genuine ford (motorcraft) unit available, I will be ordering one sometime this week and keeping it on hand for when this one inevitably goes sour haha.
I see you are here in Az. Which town? Parts Mart next door to me here at Sanderson Ford has 2 in stock. I could have it here in ten minutes.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 03:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I see you are here in Az. Which town? Parts Mart next door to me here at Sanderson Ford has 2 in stock. I could have it here in ten minutes.
Ahh, i am on the other side of south mountain. Ahwautukee. Gonna drive her around a little bit this week and make sure everything is 100%, then hopefully head out to butcher jones at some point in the next few weeks. Bought this truck for offroading and have only been on dirt twice! hahaha. Hopefully lots of camping coming up though!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 03:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wrecklesswisdom
Ahh, i am on the other side of south mountain. Ahwautukee. Gonna drive her around a little bit this week and make sure everything is 100%, then hopefully head out to butcher jones at some point in the next few weeks. Bought this truck for offroading and have only been on dirt twice! hahaha. Hopefully lots of camping coming up though!
Earnhardt Ford can get it for you as well. But I guarantee this guy named Jeff at Sanderson would be cheaper.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 03:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Earnhardt Ford can get it for you as well. But I guarantee this guy named Jeff at Sanderson would be cheaper.

Hmmm, im no detective, but im guessing that MAYBE...you might know this guy i guess?
 
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