Moving my posts from Excursion thread just to have all my post in one spot.

First post here start 9/18/2017:

This weeks project Gibson SS exhaust manifolds and Five Star Tuning SPD Y-pipe.

 

So far 8 studs broke off below flush ! 5 studs are still sticking out, now 13 to be removed out of 20.

Both sides were leaking, but mostly the passenger side.

 

$532 and free shipping from Summit and a mail-in rebate of $50.00.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gib-gp125s
I'm going to use sealant, no gasket, and anti-seize on all the bolts that came with it due to restrictions of size between flanges and pipes.

Still removing the damn studs, not enough free time and still have 6 below the surface to go....

 

Now for the good news-bad news, decided to remove the heads completely and found the gaskets were leaking oil on both sides, after considerable time spent already, I just ordered two new reman heads for $800 each and getting the list together on other items to be replaced while we're in there.

 

After numerous hours of research and finding a lot of pros and cons, instead of using the gasket I'm opting for this companies product.

Hylomar ? Non-Setting Compounds

I'm using the advanced formulation product.

This is the guy I spoke with being interviewed.
Even Permatex is using it in their formula too. https://www.carid.com/permatex/hylom...mpn-85249.html

 

I think the movement of the two different surfaces is part of the modular motor manifold problem besides the stupid Ford steel studs freezing themselves in the aluminum heads and breaking off. When the two surfaces heat up and dissipate heat at different speeds it may be causing most of the breaking issues. The movement hits the weakest link, the studs, and having a different composition aluminum vs cast, the studs lost.
Now I'm using a machined SS flange that should (or I should say HOPE) will have a different reaction to the heat disbursement than the cast manifolds.

That's what I'm hoping for, I think Hylomar has a product that Rolls Royce has been using on the aircraft engines for almost a half a century that was introduced to the retail consumer market in this country for less than a decade.

On the other hand, my Ex doesn't see more than 3-4k miles a year and that's due to the annual trip up north and the dozen or so 4-mile trips to the lake with a 4k tow uphill both ways....lol

 

It will only be on the exhaust manifold side, not the heads. It will only get a small bead around the port openings.

 

While it's all apart, doing some repairs on the main wire harness.



Before - Fuel Injector and Coil Connectors



After - Fuel Injector and Coil Connectors

 

Nice project! Keep up the good work

In reply to the stud breaking issue, it's really all about the nuts sticking to the manifold. You're with me in the salt belt, I can tell by the rest of the engine

The old Ford FE engine manifolds would do the same thing - they'd usually crack. When I replaced one on my highboy, I had the bright idea of putting anti-seize on the manifold and head, and the steel-shim gasket. Years later, I was reading a repair manual, Motor's I think, and it had Ford's original service instructions for the manifolds - and it said to use anti-seize

Anyway, it's not an uncommon problem for a lot of different engines. The long logs of the V10 like to expand and contract a lot. Nuts stick to the manifold, manifold drags the studs back and forth, and they fatigue.

 

Thanks, Art! You put anti-seize on the nuts and the studs, which is what I was planning on doing also to the supplied bolts Gibson provided except for the crappy little star washers included, stainless lock washers is whats going on.

 

I recently put on the same headers and have been very happy with them. I had a shop to the work since I don't have the patience for broken studs. Ended up having 4. I would have tossed a grenade in the engine bay and walked away. Looking good on the rest of the repairs! If you have the whole thing torn apart, now might be a good time to replace the crankshaft position sensor as a preventative measure.

 

Thanks, and yes that is on the list.

 

One side down had a few spliced and the rest just re-pinned the connectors.

 

Finished all the soldering and connector replacements, now back to getting the block prepped for the new timing chain kit, water pump, knock sensor, crank sensor, heads, plugs, thermostat, AC compressor, oil pressure sending unit, coolant system flush, and the coolant PCV.

 

So, other than the bottom end, you're going to have a brand new engine?