My boy and I have been restoring a Bronco for the past year and a half. Still having issues and stumped. It seems to be running rich, and it has very little power. I will list everything we have done below to help with any questions that have already been asked, but ANY help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

All new parts including: MAP, TPS, FPR, Coil, Solenoid, Battery, Alternator, Starter, Fuel Pump relay, Fuel pump, plugs, wires, Complete gasket set, new rings, valve job, new Dizzy, o2 sensor, new (rubber) vacuum lines, swapped ECM and EGR. Cleaned and tesed injectors. Replaced Automatic Tranny with 5 speed, new master and slave cylinder. Replaced rear axle for same. Code reader shows OK, but does have a couple of codes----for Neutral safety switch and AC pump (both disconnected). Can't get it to do the cylinder balance test for some reason tho. It does throw another code 10 when starting up, which is I belive for bad cylinder #1, but the book says to ignore initial codes when starting the KOER test. Also throws a code for water temp which goes away when warmed up. Compression tests all show about 150#. Took CAT out of system and ran duel exhaust into glassers. Also removed part of the smog system behind upper intake and capped all lines off.

I think I covered everything, but probably missed something. Again, Thanks for any help. 'Bout ready to take it somewhere and pay someone to figure it out.

 

Motor was rebuilt to stock specs or something else?

Have you checked fuel pressure?
What about the timing?

 

Yup. Fuel pressure at the rail is about 30 psi, static. Timing set to zero with pip spout removed. Goes to 10 BTC after plugging it back in.

 

Guess I missed your original question. It was a long weekend.....lol. Rebuilt it to stack specs. Basically "freshened it up" with a valve job, new rings, bearings and gaskets. Honed cylinders as well. I am a little concerned about that cam, although it probably wouldn't run at all with a different cam in it.

 

Base timing should be at 10deg BTDC with the spout plug removed and fuel pressure should be 30-35psi at idle and upwards of 40-45psi with vacuum removed from the regulator... engine running.

 

Did you plug the holes in the back of the cylinder heads? If not you will have a pretty obnoxious exhaust leak and worse yet a giant fresh air source upstream of the O2 sensor. There can be no fresh air getting into the exhaust upstream of the O2 sensor. And you did reinstall the O2 didn't you?

 

I did. I ran the connector tube across both heads and capped the top. O2 is not only installed but brand new.

My boy is telling me that he thinks it may be leaking fuel in the back. I am going to try to look at that today. Hard to see back there tho.

With regards to timing, I was under the understanding that u set it to zero with the spout removed, shut it off and plug it back in......PCM I thought set the negative 10. I will definitely look at this to make sure it is sitting at 10 BTDC

 

Might be a good idea to check fuel pressure, not so much to see if it is in spec but to see of it bleeds off immediately after the engine is shut off. If it does you could have one or more injectors stuck open, and if that is the case the spark plug for that hole will be wet.

 

Will do. Although the last time I checked it with engine off it still had pressure there. I am going to look at that suspected leak today tho.....If the pressure is down, that would prob be the culprit. Cleaned and tested all injectors last week, and they seemed to be operating properly.

 

Will do. Although the last time I checked it with engine off it still had pressure there. I am going to look at that suspected leak today tho.....If the pressure is down, that would prob be the culprit. Cleaned and tested all injectors last week, and they seemed to be operating properly.

 

the timing needs to be adjusted like Conanski said.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to you guys for the help. The boy and I will be working on this in the next day or 2, and I will let you know how it turns out.