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Old unknown wheel cylinders really should be replaced. I'm pretty sure my truck sat for a while before I owned it, and I found both of my wheel cylinders to have their rear pistons seized in the bores.
You'll have to actuate the pressure differential valve to bleed the fronts.
If you're gonna buy a new MC, buy one for a '95 explorer workout cruise control. It's aluminum, so it will never rust, and the ports are on the driver side! You will have to buy adapters for the lines because of double flares or something of that nature. Search it on this website and you'll find part numbers for them.
The '95 Explorer MC (w/o CC, w/o traction control, part number NMC M3246) has a 1-1/16" bore diameter. The primary port requires an M10 x 1.0 metric bubble flare fitting. The secondary port requires an M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting. Direct connection fittings are available through Classic Tube. With these, ugly fitting adapters are not needed.
Classic Tube part number for the M10 x 1.0 fitting is ST8036. The M12 x 1.0 fitting is part number ST8040.
I intalled this setup in my truck in 2014 and have posted information in various threads here on its installation since that time.
Another similar setup I installed in a friend's '72 F100 1 year ago this month.
[QUOTE=ultraranger;17481430]The '95 Explorer MC (w/o CC, w/o traction control, part number NMC M3246) has a 1-1/16" bore diameter. The primary port requires an M10 x 1.0 metric bubble flare fitting. The secondary port requires an M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting. Direct connection fittings are available through Classic Tube. With these, ugly fitting adapters are not needed.
Classic Tube part number for the M10 x 1.0 fitting is ST8036. The M12 x 1.0 fitting is part number ST8040.
I intalled this setup in my truck in 2014 and have posted information in various threads here on its installation since that time.
SEE! I knew somebody who knows more than I would come along with part numbers. This is why I love this site. Thank you ultraranger.
The '95 Explorer MC (w/o CC, w/o traction control, part number NMC M3246) has a 1-1/16" bore diameter. The primary port requires an M10 x 1.0 metric bubble flare fitting. The secondary port requires an M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting. Direct connection fittings are available through Classic Tube. With these, ugly fitting adapters are not needed.
Classic Tube part number for the M10 x 1.0 fitting is ST8036. The M12 x 1.0 fitting is part number ST8040.
I intalled this setup in my truck in 2014 and have posted information in various threads here on its installation since that time.
SEE! I knew somebody who knows more than I would come along with part numbers. This is why I love this site. Thank you ultraranger.
Those are some slick setups! I love the idea of having the proportioning valve right by the MC - gotta make it easier to bleed / troubleshoot.
I think my biggest brake issue is a lack of vacuum. I ran the engine for a little while the other day to move it around the yard and there was smoke coming from the manifold. Might not have much vacuum - I'll have to troubleshoot when I get to the mechanical portion of our program.
Loads of surface rust and a little interior rust, but am I wrong in thinking that the seals looked good overall? Salvageable?
I haven't taken a look at the vacuum issue yet (maybe in three weeks), but this is what I'm working with, so far. Probably running new lines since I've taken nearly everything off the frame.
Loads of surface rust and a little interior rust, but am I wrong in thinking that the seals looked good overall? Salvageable?
I haven't taken a look at the vacuum issue yet (maybe in three weeks), but this is what I'm working with, so far. Probably running new lines since I've taken nearly everything off the frame.
I would plan on changing out BOTH the MC and the booster. Brake fluid has most likely migrated over into the booster. Brake fluid attacks the rubber of the diaphragm inside. You're living on borrowed time until the diaphragm finally ruptures.
I would not suggest getting a combination of a MC and brake booster together. Buy a new (not remanufactured) MC, separately. Booster/MC combos come with rebuilt MCs.
I've slowly been replacing much of the brake system and am looking at the rear axle brake hose junction block. How is that block secured to the axle? I'm assuming that the nipple the vent hose attaches to is a bolt that's threaded through the block and into the axle. Correct?
I've slowly been replacing much of the brake system and am looking at the rear axle brake hose junction block. How is that block secured to the axle? I'm assuming that the nipple the vent hose attaches to is a bolt that's threaded through the block and into the axle. Correct?
Slips through the brake block and threads into the axle tube. The bolt has a hollow through it to allow the venting. I've read some posts that say the hollow makes the "bolt" weak and it will twist in two compounding your problems. Mine came out without any problems.
Slips through the brake block and threads into the axle tube. The bolt has a hollow through it to allow the venting. I've read some posts that say the hollow makes the "bolt" weak and it will twist in two compounding your problems. Mine came out without any problems.
Thanks a million! Mine is rusted pretty well, but I can move the block and get some PB under it. That should help.
I'm assuming that most of these are 7/16"-20 bolts and that they're pretty interchangeable between Ford vehicles?
Got the rear axle sorted out! Replaced it all and it fits perfectly.
And now, on to the next dilemma....
I got a replacement parking brake cable and the front cable screw has a pinhole for a spring to go through, but there was no spring when I got the truck. Do I need to get one and, if so, any idea what size spring is needed?
Thanks!
Last edited by applebaggins; Nov 15, 2017 at 02:58 PM.
Reason: Solved my earlier problem
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