Hello FTE,

For some time I've had a 1954 F100 project I've been working on. Ive gone through and boxed the frame, added a TCI mustang II kit and a four link out rear. Ive got a set of 3.25 gears into a ford 9" to help spin the set of 18" American racing wheels wrapped with Pirelli rubbers.

So why the swap?

Well I'm fed up with my current engine to say the least

I have currently a 1972 5.0 in there that was bored out and machined out to 306 CI. A comp camp, some lifters and springs, intake, headers and carb. However I had a drop in oil pressure after changing out the distributor and accidentally pulling out the oil pump shaft. The clearance on it was so tight it pulled out the shaft and even the ring thats suppose to prevent that.

I dropped the pan put in a new shaft, but the oil pressure still sucked. I kept driving not thinking of the train wreck about to happen. Ended up scorching the bearings and throwing the crank out of spec. I had a valve also stick open and was kindly shut by the piston.

I had it rebuilt for the second time. Crank and bearings were gone through, heads were redone. Go back to tune it, and I still have an issue with the heads, timing is off, and seems as if I still have two dead cylinders.

Not to mention the 3 speed auto that behind the engine. Hoping to offload both to someone looking for a decent starting base for a rebuild.

*throws in towel.

After all that I started looking for a newer 5.0 but couldn't justify the price. I looked at 4.6L out of Crown Victoria's and looked what I could get them for. They are reasonably priced but the mileage is usually pretty high on these cars. I drive my dads crown vic every now and then and know the good power and reliability they have.

So I took a chance and picked up an engine out of an hold Police Interceptor. 87k miles on it for a 2007 car.








Patina is staying. It takes a long time for paint to look this good







This is the four link and bed. Bed floor tilts just to be able to show it off. I plan on doing some more work to it to add some gas assisted shocks, but thats on hold for now.








Not much for interior right now. I have a bench out of some kind of passenger vehicle. Thats going to go. Plan on some high back buckets from Corbeau with a center console. Fully sound insulated and blacked out interior. Carpeted, panels and headliner.







Here's what I picked up, I drove about 130 miles out to Roseville CA to grab it. I found it on eBay and picked it up. Drove it back to my work where I took it off with the forklift and just set it on a pallet. I started up some mounts to keep it on the stand, but ended up stopping on those as I need to rethink how I plan on getting it on the stand.

Looking for a tr3650 5 speed to mate behind it. I already fabricated a pedal mount for a clutch when I installed my wilwood MC and pedal, so I'm trying to get a newer model 06+ for a hydraulic throwout bearing or possibly going with a '01-'04 model and buying an upgrade kit.

I'm planning on running a holley efi system for wiring and ecu. Plug and play and Ive spoken with those guys before I bought the engine. It's a match made in heaven.

As for gear ratio, I'll see how the 3.25s will work and see if I want to change them later.

I'll have to redo the fuel system, exhaust, driveshaft and all that. But i'm completely okay with that.

I'm hoping to get at least 20 miles a gallon. A heavy CV commuting gets pretty good mileage (25 mpg or so). The reilaibity of fuel injection will be nice. They are pretty good on power and torque, but some speed goodies will also be on the list during this build.

if you'd like to see where my truck started, check out my original build thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4-f-100-r.html

Thanks for checking it out!

 

Sorry to hear about your engine problems but CV motor should sort it out. Have to say I kind of liked your bench seat. Once the cab is insulated the engine noise won't be nearly as bad.

 

Before you drop in that motor make sure your starter is new, changing them are a PIA trying to get the last bolt out.

 

I did a 5.4 in my 37 Ford coupe and I'm in the works of finishing up a 460 in my 50 F1 both of them are factory fuel injected go check out Ron Francis wiring they have really nice wire kits and they can redo your PCM and get rid of what ever you don't want the system to have and the obd2 stays intact so it's really easy to trouble shoot and Dyno tune.

 

That’s to bad to hear about the 302 Daniel, hopefully this one turns out the way you want it and gives you a couple of extra pony’s to have fun with. Going to be putting in a 302 into mine so hopefully it holds up... fingers crossed

 

I'm thinking it will. Should also sort out the horsepower issue as well As far as bench goes, I don't know what its out of, but its way too big and bulky for the cab. I tried getting my hands on an original bench a few years ago, didn't pan out. With the engine and the way i want to drive it, buckets make sense. Thanks for checking it out.

Oh i believe you. Planning on new accessories and starter.

I'm sure it would be fine. This was a great little small block until I started to modify it and screwed up the oil flow. If that didn't happen id still be daily driving it. Good luck on your build!

I just looked up Ron Francis for a moment after you mentioned it and saw a lot of F100 guys doing a CV swap use that harness. Problem is I only have the factory wiring from the motor and throttle body. No ECU or anything else, is that an issue with Ron Francis or do they provide that as well?

 

small update and also a reason to bump this thread

I've bought a transmission and should be here by next Friday! Tremec 5 speed out of a 05-09 mustang. I'll have a remote mounted shifter so I'll have to get a couple links to mount the shifter up. I'll have a little versatility when it comes to mounting location as well.

In light of the transmission currently in transit, I started a plan to start getting everything mounted.

I've seen a couple different designs, and found some ones from Welder series I really liked, but still couldn't justify the price. So instead I'll make em



I turned down some 3/8 bolts in the lathe and put a 45 degree chamfer on the head. Turned it till it was a sharp point. I threaded the bolt into the block, then used a think piece of sheet aluminum and a hammer to punch the hole pattern. From there i used my dial calipers and was able to get the exact measurements. I'll either get the profile punched out of 1/8 steel at my shop, or I may send it out to get laser cut at another shop out of 3/16 cold rolled steel.









Besides that Ive just done some more scrubbing on the engine, painting the engine plate, crank pulley. Going to paint the remainder of the block soon and also find an efficient way to clean up the aluminum heads.

Not much of an update, but I'll soon get to fabricating a new transmission crossmember once the transmission is in my shop. That's when the fun will start!

I've found a pair of shorty headers on summit racing id like to pick up before I finalize the motor mounts. i just want to make sure everything clears before I spend all this time on them.

Thanks for stopping by.

 

Can you elaborate on your wilwood brake setup? What calipers, rotors, and adapters did you use?

 

Hey Olboy,

For the rear I went all out and bought a new ford 9" differential fabricated from a local shop. There I bought Wilwood's 4 piston caliper 12" rotor with an internal parking brake. I told the shop which flanges I wanted on the housing and which offset the axles should have to fit the brakes I was planning on getting.

I currently have a MII IFS in the front and have a front disk brake setup from Wilwood for the Mustang II. I bought the front end kit with dual piston calipers and 11 inch rotors. I plan on upgrading these to a 13 or 14" 6 piston in the near future once I'm done with the engine. Its little mixed right now, but thats always the way my project has been. A mix and match of old a new.

For Mc i bought a 7/8 bore MC black anodized from, you know who, wilwood. I bought a proportioning valve and bracket from them. I ended up losing one of the included SS pre-bent lines, so I made my own.

As far as mounting the pedal, I got my hands on the dimensions from the Wilwood website for the pedal bolt holes and the MC. I drew it up and had it CNC punched to fit the bolt pattern I needed. I bent that up in the brake and welded in some pieces for the side. It bolts to the dash and utilizes the bolts for the steering column for additional support. I have six bolts for the firewall.

I also punched the patten for an additional pedal and clutch reservoir to fit on the left side of the column. When installing my clutch pedal and reservoir, I only have to drill out 5 holes to install it.

Take a look through my original build thread towards the end and you'll see some more pictures of the pedal box, brakes and all that.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4-f-100-r.html

 

Sorry not sorry about the engine problems, because it'll only get better with the CV 4.6!!!

 

Oh I don't even feel sorry for myself

 

Got the transmission in from texas. So I started to fabricate up the motor mounts and getting the components ready to install the drivetrain.



Started out by punching out some plates for the bolt pattern. From there I just put in a bend to put some rigidity into it.



Trans is pretty light. Its out of an o5-10 mustang. 5 speed Tremec tr3650. I'll need to get a shifter kit and links to make this all work, but it gives me a little adaptability as far as shifter location.






I just mated the trans and engine together. No clutch, flywheel, or engine plate in yet. I'm going to make my trans crossmember and engine mounts before I put all that in-between.

I'll get the mounts finalized and engine and trans installed. I'll take it back out. Put in the new drivetrain after some more cleaning and panting. Then it'll go in one last time with the flywheel, clutch and plate

Headers come next before I'll finalize the mounts. I also want to make sure I won't have to modify my steering too much. I'm planning on some BBK shorties. Any other recommendation for a 4.6L? I don't want to run full length for this engine.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

If your going to get headers and don't want to go long tubes, find some mid length as then you can have a proper collector. Here's an example of a Mustang one.

 

Thanks, Ive seen JBA on summit. I'll have to continue looking for either something from them or something similar.

 

So I've continued working on the motor mounts. I was able to order the correct transmission mount and should be here this week!

I've decided that I'm going to be fabricating the mounts out of 0.188 thick tubing and plate as well.

That means I'll be getting the main plate and gusset laser cut from a shop I spent a few months doing some side work for.

But all that to say, I decided to mock up a mount anyway to see how I liked it.

I had the plate punched. Cut out the gusset with a corner notcher. I turned down the tubing to clean up a little bit of rust on the outside. I cut the smaller tubes down and ground the ends to fit up to the larger tube.

I'll need to order some urethane bushings as well to press into the mount when I'm done.

This is the mock up that I have. I'll soon get materials and CAD files for laser.