Clunk in the front
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Rockwall, TX
Clunk in the front
Drivers side when going over bump theres a clunk. Also vibration at speed. I've done the ball joint test by jacking up vehicle and lifting up tire. It passed. What else should I be looking at? I'm thinking:
1.Shocks
2. Sway Bar
3. Stabilizer bar link kit
4. Vibration "could" be cause by tire
I don't want to have to replace everything right away. Front end is definitely wore out. If you were to replace things, in what order would you go in to possibly best solve the clunk mystery?
Thanks Excursionites!
1.Shocks
2. Sway Bar
3. Stabilizer bar link kit
4. Vibration "could" be cause by tire
I don't want to have to replace everything right away. Front end is definitely wore out. If you were to replace things, in what order would you go in to possibly best solve the clunk mystery?
Thanks Excursionites!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
I'm just finishing up rebuilding the whole front end. Do forget this guy, I'm having to go back in to replace it because I forgot it. It's the mount the that the shackle bolts to.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...RpZXNlbA%3D%3D
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...RpZXNlbA%3D%3D
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
It's going to take a through inspection with measuring and testing, there are procedures in the factory service manual or online for all the systems.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,079
Likes: 63
From: Florida and Tennessee
Your clunk and vibration are probably two different things. Don't assume they're related.
Clunks are generally easier to find then vibrations. My experiences with clunks on the Ex is sway bar links are #1. Vibrations ... well my guess is 9 out of 10 times it's tire balance. Once eliminating the "most likely" then bearings and bushings of which there are many.
Look for "rust bleeds" from universals, body mounts, springs, shocks and bolts.
Track bar is one component that can cause both a clunk and vibration.
I can live with a clunk, but not a vibration.
Clunks are generally easier to find then vibrations. My experiences with clunks on the Ex is sway bar links are #1. Vibrations ... well my guess is 9 out of 10 times it's tire balance. Once eliminating the "most likely" then bearings and bushings of which there are many.
Look for "rust bleeds" from universals, body mounts, springs, shocks and bolts.
Track bar is one component that can cause both a clunk and vibration.
I can live with a clunk, but not a vibration.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Rockwall, TX
I went and got my tires rotated for free, then the guys there said for $10 they would do an inspection on my vehicle. So I decided hey why not! They quoted me $1800 for the ball joints to be replaced. The upper left one is cracked. I think that's the clunk. Anyways, I'll do it myself for very little money. And I'll video to show you how I did it. They also saw worn out bushings in the sway bar. I figure I'll do the ball joints, and new front Hellwig sway bar all at the same time.
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
You should notice a definite firming of the front end when turning sharply with the Hellwig front bar.
Ours had 2 clunks in the front end from bad tie rod ends.
They are easy to find by having someone turn the steering while watching for wobble in the ends.
A 3rd clunk was in the rear, but sounded like it was in the front.
When I installed the rear Hellwig bar I installed the frame bolt for the left arm with the nut towards the driveshaft.
The leaf spring would sometimes catch the end of the bolt and slip past causing a thunk.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Just a suggestion, but I wouldn't bother with replacing the whole front sway bar assembly with a Hellwig, just replace the end links with some Dorman brand links and you'll be good to go. A lot cheaper that way.
Stewart
Stewart
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Rockwall, TX
Have you installed the rear Hellwig bar already?
You should notice a definite firming of the front end when turning sharply with the Hellwig front bar.
Ours had 2 clunks in the front end from bad tie rod ends.
They are easy to find by having someone turn the steering while watching for wobble in the ends.
A 3rd clunk was in the rear, but sounded like it was in the front.
When I installed the rear Hellwig bar I installed the frame bolt for the left arm with the nut towards the driveshaft.
The leaf spring would sometimes catch the end of the bolt and slip past causing a thunk.
You should notice a definite firming of the front end when turning sharply with the Hellwig front bar.
Ours had 2 clunks in the front end from bad tie rod ends.
They are easy to find by having someone turn the steering while watching for wobble in the ends.
A 3rd clunk was in the rear, but sounded like it was in the front.
When I installed the rear Hellwig bar I installed the frame bolt for the left arm with the nut towards the driveshaft.
The leaf spring would sometimes catch the end of the bolt and slip past causing a thunk.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Rockwall, TX
Isn't Hellwig a large step up from the stock sway bar?
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Nope, not from the "results" that have been posted all these years.
If anyone could truly feel any difference when they swapped out the OEM bar for the Hellwig, then it was only slightly negligible based on what I remember.
Besides, the OEM works, and it works well (subjective opinion) for what it was designed to do. If you have a clunk from the sway bar then it's gonna be from the bushings in the end links. And unless you have a press, it's so much easier (and almost as cheap) to just buy the end links versus the bushings.
Stewart
If anyone could truly feel any difference when they swapped out the OEM bar for the Hellwig, then it was only slightly negligible based on what I remember.
Besides, the OEM works, and it works well (subjective opinion) for what it was designed to do. If you have a clunk from the sway bar then it's gonna be from the bushings in the end links. And unless you have a press, it's so much easier (and almost as cheap) to just buy the end links versus the bushings.
Stewart
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
The difference is not in the smoothness of the ride while cruising down the road.
Make sharp jogs like trying to avoid a ladder on the freeway which I did just yesterday while towing and you can tell the difference in control of the vehicle.
When making sharp turns the larger front bar keeps the front end flatter in the turns which can easily be felt.
The stiffer the bar the flatter the front end will stay.
Disconnect the bar and see how much the front end rolls.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I wasn't commenting on bar vs no bar.
Either I'm remembering incorrectly or I just didn't read any positive posts like yours above stating there was a marked difference between the OEM bar and the Hellwig.
Stewart
Either I'm remembering incorrectly or I just didn't read any positive posts like yours above stating there was a marked difference between the OEM bar and the Hellwig.
Stewart
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
I was just mentioning the no bar situation because Ford cheaped out on the Excursion with no rear bar and the easiest way to see how well they work is to drive without one after having one. My 1st gen Explorers had rear anti-roll bars, although they were small. It's similar to leaf springs, the soft ones used in the Excursion do the job, stronger ones will carry more weight, and so on, each time it's noticeable. There are diminishing returns because if the springs are too stiff the ride suffers. Adding stronger anti-roll bars reduces body roll improving handling, but get too strong and the ride over uneven surfaces suffers. Stronger leafs and larger anti-roll bars cost more so guess which ones get installed more often. Look under any police cruiser and see what size bars they have.