My truck has a fuel problem, I have been chasing electrical on it for two days without success. I have ruled out relays and fuses under the hood, emergency fuel cut off under dash, replaced the selector switch for tanks ( on dash ) and checked fuel filter. There is no fuel coming out of Schader valve. It started the morning before last just fine, was running fine. I shut it off, when I went around to passenger side the ground was wet inside front passenger tire, half hour later it was dry. I figured it was gas and evaporated. Person that was with me could not hear fuel pumps run when I cycled it on. I'm in path of hurricane and would at least like to be able to get myself and pets to higher ground. My RV is insured so will deal with that after is anyone close by who could help me get this running? I can't afford to pay you now but I promise I will somehow in the future. I am just off I-75 near Robbins AFB

 

Jumper pins 2 and 6 on the connector where you plug a code reader into. Turn the key to the Run position. The fuel pump will turn on and stay on if the power and ground paths are good.

I assume this is a 1990 and later F350? There is a high pressure pump in each tank. So the issue is common to both of either one will not energize in the condition stated above.

 

As noted above.
On your 1994 F350 when you short (ground) pin #2 to #6 and turn the key to the run position, check for power at the Inertia fuel shut off switch with a loading test light.
Also make sure the button on top of the Inertia fuel shut off switch is pushed down.





below says 1995 but a 1994 is the same.

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I have wire plugged in where you see red ends, which wire do I test on emergency switch?

 

The jumper looks wrong for the self-test connector.

You test both wires to ground. They both should have power on them.

The front of the plug, not the wire side.
Attachment 282977

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RLA and Subford. Thank you guys for helping this guy get going. I know how he is feeling and you guys are stepping up when he REALLY needs it. THANKS so Much for your generosity. Sandy

 

That inertia switch looks compromised to me. It should have a red cap on the actuator.

As Bill stated you should have power on both sides of that component when you have Pins 2 & 6 jumpered and the ignition switch in the Run position.

Measure both wires reference to ground. If you have a test light, I would suggest using that. A high impedance DVM will usually lie to you. In your situation I would use whatever you have, but be aware of the pitfall.

 

I see now you had the plug up-side down.
You had the jumper right on the self-test plug.

 

I plugged in where I think is 2-6 and checked at enertia switch and no power at either wire

 

Then I would jump pins 30 and 87 at the fuel pump relay and see if the pump runs. The numbers are probably on the bottom of the relay, if it helps. Of course your jumper will go in the relay socket itself.

 

Ok, do you hear any clicking at all in the fuse/relay box under the hood when you turn the key to run.

Do not stick anything in the sockets for the relays or you will spread them and then the relay will not work.

 

So I heard both pumps running, and there was fuel at schrader valve still won't start, pressure regulator???

 

I might enjoy what I'm learning except with hurricane Irma breathing down my back I need transportation for my pets and me. I do appreciate all the info though believe me and thanks. I'm a parts person not a mechanic

 

If at all possible, I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve and check fuel pressure now that you hear the pumps run.

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed (and how was it checked)?

 

I don't have access to a pressure gauge, and filter was changed few months/thousand miles ago