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Over the Labor day weekend, I finally upgraded to a 31 row trans cooler. I used a Dorman cooler and acquired the other needed parts(hose, clamps, barb fittings) over the past few months. Very easy install. Just removed grill, top cover of the fluid coolers under the hood, hood latch and top AC condenser brackets. Took maybe 1 1/2 hours to do. Most of that was contemplating how to route the hose and hookup under the truck. So far, temps are down 20-30 degrees combined driving. I have not towed anything yet, but I have a trip to Niagara Falls coming up in 3 weeks for fall break. I will be towing the camper for a road trip. Last time out with the camper the trans temp hit 220 for a short pull, but operated mostly in the 200-210 range for the trip. I am anxious to see what a difference the cooler will make.
Thanks for sharing. I, too, am preparing for this mod.
1. Did you use straight 1/2" x 3/8" reducer barbs or 90 degree angled ones? I've read that some like the 90 degree angled ones as they allow the hoses to be installed easier and not have large bends as needed with straight reducer barbs.
2. Did the oem cooler come out through the top or bottom?
3. Do new rubber trans lines connect to oem metal lines by simply siding over and using a hose clamp? If not, can you share this step?
I did use the straight barb fittings 3/8-1/2". Old cooler came out and new one went in thru the top. I cut the cooler lines at the connection to the old cooler and used the barbs to connect to the 1/2" hose. Slides right over and used hose clamps. Very easy, no leaks. I did not do pics, sorry. You do NOT have to remove the bumper, just need a good swivel. Make sure to get fender washers for the lower mount of the new cooler.
There is a thread or post on this site that walks you thru installation of the cooler. I could not find this morning as a reference. I printed it off and used it during my install.
... So far, temps are down 20-30 degrees combined driving. ....
You should see about a 20-30 deg drop in temps across the range as long as you have adequate air flow - above 25mph.
A nice thing about this cooler is the 1/2" tubing which provides less flow resistance.
The trans cooler bypass tube is less likely to kick in.
If you want another 20-30 deg drop in temps you can add a 3rd cooler.
I mounted an 11"x11" stacked plated cooler with NPT ports and 1/2" hose barb adapters above the 31 plate cooler and added a remote filter.
The whole setup, (3) coolers and filter, still has higher line pressures than the factory coolers due to the 1/2" lines.
... I think this will be all I need to get temps down where I am comfortable, ....
Should work fine.
The 31 row cooler is used for the heavier duty 5R110.
I felt it was prudent to add more cooling for when we go to Oregon or Utah and it's 115 deg out.
Keep in mind there is such a thing as having your transmission too cool when towing.
I installed a 6.0L cooler in my 7.3L. I removed most of the factory steel lines and plumbed it with 1/2" transmission line. I also installed a fluid thermostat inline on the hot line, this allows the fluid to bypass the cooler until 180° is reached at this point the thermostatic valve will close forcing 100% of the fluid through the cooler while maintaining a constant pressure. I also plumbed a Magnefine filter on the hot line just before the cooler to catch any material that the transmission filter might miss.
My transmission literally stays between 180* and 200ish if towing through the Rockies.
I agree on maintaining trans temps at recommended temps for optimum performance, durability, and longevity.
Thermostats:
I have a trans cooler thermostat that was included in a TruMax cooler I installed in my last truck. I never installed the thermostat as I was concerned that:
1. I would not know if it was working
2. Concerned that it would not open and allow fluid to enter trans cooler.
NOTE: I also live in a hot climate SoCal Desert/Inland Empire area
TruMax calls their thermostat "Remote thermal cold weather bypass"
It is the blue aluminum part in the pic below....
I'm wondering if TruMax makes this thermostat or if it is made by another vendor?
Could not find much about how it is constructed or if it is a high quality thermostat.
I would consider using it if I knew about its reliability, durability, and accuracy.
OP: Did you consider a thermostat?
Colorado 350: What make / model thermostat did you use?
I agree on maintaining trans temps at recommended temps for optimum performance, durability, and longevity.
Thermostats:
I have a trans cooler thermostat that was included in a TruMax cooler I installed in my last truck. I never installed the thermostat as I was concerned that:
1. I would not know if it was working
2. Concerned that it would not open and allow fluid to enter trans cooler.
NOTE: I also live in a hot climate SoCal Desert/Inland Empire area
TruMax calls their thermostat "Remote thermal cold weather bypass"
It is the blue aluminum part in the pic below....
I'm wondering if TruMax makes this thermostat or if it is made by another vendor?
Could not find much about how it is constructed or if it is a high quality thermostat.
I would consider using it if I knew about its reliability, durability, and accuracy.
OP: Did you consider a thermostat?
Colorado 350: What make / model thermostat did you use?
I'm going to have to agree to disagree here. . There's a reason transmissions have a optimum operating temperature or " temperature range". Cold fluid flows different than warm or hot fluid does, therefore it's going to effect how a transmission shifts and gets lubricated. Condensation also occurs in the transmission and if the transmission never gets warm enough to evaporate that fluid there will be lubrication issues or rather lack of it.
I couldn't find it here on FTE but here's a link that Mark K comments regarding transmissions running too cool/cold.
... There's a reason transmissions have a optimum operating temperature or " temperature range". ...
I think the OEM coolers are sized to keep the "maximum" operating temperature at a point where the trans won't burn up avoiding creating a warranty claim. Adding a larger cooler cost $$$ which is the bottom line.
When it's 40 deg out and trans fluids temps being returned to the pan are 70 deg mine still shifts fine. I don't think you need the fluid temps high enough to eliminate condensation every day or week. I don't know of any application where Ford has installed a thermal bypass, again probably $$$. Without a thermal control valve there will be quite a range of temps. Anyone in Alaska having trans problems when it's cold?
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. There's a reason transmissions have a optimum operating temperature or " temperature range". Cold fluid flows different than warm or hot fluid does, therefore it's going to effect how a transmission shifts and gets lubricated. Condensation also occurs in the transmission and if the transmission never gets warm enough to evaporate that fluid there will be lubrication issues or rather lack of it.