I am in the early stages of auto body panel restoration. The chassis, engine and running gear mostly done. It runs well and I can drive it up and down my driveway while sitting on a milk crate (no doors or glass) . The cab pretty much done when I purchased the truck. The PO had the cab done at a body shop. It came in primer except the dash, window & door jambs and firewall are finished in original vermilion red. I believe the paint is old school acrylic.
I'm generally competent with mechanical work but a total novice at body work. This site has been a valuable resource for me through this project and these days I am closely watching threads with body work info. I have started with the inner fenders, air deflectors, grill, gravel pan and upper radiator valance. For surface rust removal I have used a variety of methods including sanding, wire brushing, electrolysis (with very good results - cheap), Evaporust, Eastwood Fast Etch, and white vinegar. For rotted sheet metal replacement, I finely got the hang of mig welding patches without blowing through too many holes! A piece of copper flashing wrapped around a dolly works wonders. For grinding the welds, I learned that a combination of the 3" cut-off wheel, and die grinder with 2" sanding disk 80 grit and 2" flap sanding wheel 80 grit work well. Some of the panels have reinforcing pieces spot welded forming a double layer. After rust removal, I dribbled rust converter as best I could between layers.
Having never spray painted (except rattle cans), I purchased a 3M Accuspray gun set up with PPS starter kit and some controls for my compressed air system. Also purchased 2 quality respirators, one for painting and one for sanding.
After de-rusting, patching and sanding the panels have been sprayed with two coats of epoxy primer. For me that was kind of a milestone. This past week I applied some thin layers of Evercoat Rage ultra body filler. My inexperience quickly became evident. Always seemed to mix too much and apply too thick! The stuff is too expensive to waste.
I have a couple of questions:
1. Between applications of filler, is it ok to wipe area with solvent?
2. There were deep pits in parts of the upper radiator valence. I tried filling a small section with filler. Seemed to work but was a PAIN to sand because little of the surface was flat. Ideas?
3. After final sanding of filler there is some bare metal exposed. Should I repaint with epoxy (Eastwood) or is it ok to use primer sealer (SEM Metalock purchased).
4. Need to buy a random orbit air powered sander. Mine is electric. There are lots of options out there. Any suggestions? Hook & loop vs sticky paper? Vac ready or no? Orbit size?
5. It is a ways down the road but I don't want to use acrylic enamel paint. What are my options given that part of the cab is already done.
Thank you.
Bob

 

I suppose i should let Bobby J or one of the long time body shop guys answer this but as someone that just went through this and knows the fears you have maybe i can answer part of it. First i would tell you to buy a 5" random orbit sander with hook /loop system.Even the Harbor freight ones will be better than electric. Second If you see metal cover with epoxy. Third after the epoxy is on a good high hide primer may fill in those pits or a glazing putty. Now comes the part where someone else should know more than me but i was told to use rubbing alcohol to clean off filler and that after sanding, urethane will stick to enamel. After you paint it you will want to buff with a good quality cut wool pad and a compound/polish kit. Mine turned out great even painted in a tent.

 

Sounds like you are doing fine. I'll try to answer your questions...

1. After sanding filler blow off really well with compressed air. I prefer to wipe it down with solvent before re coating.
2. If the deep pits have any rust in the bottom, nothing will stick there. Wipe on filler lightly or filler primer depending on depth.
3.If your next primer is direct to metal (DTM) fine, otherwise epoxy first.
4. I prefer a 6" DA and sticky paper.....small orbit does a nicer job but slower.
5. Your call but use a quality product. It doesn't matter what was used on the inside of the cab as long as the color matches

 

Thanks for the information pweng1 and tinman52. Between the electrolysis and fast etch I'm pretty sure all the rust in the pits was removed. I bought the Metalock primer after reading one of CharlieLed's posts that it can be mixed to different consistencies to be used as primer or high build sanding surfacer. Haven't got to that stage yet and don't know if it will fill some of the deeper pits in the valance so that is why I tried filler first. Leaning towards an Ingersoll Rand sander. My 90 degree die grinder is an IR and has worked good. Price wise they are midway between cheap and pro stuff. Can get any size or type pad and choice of orbit.

 

I have an IR sander, don't recall the model# offhand, but a nice tool. Fairly quiet as well...

 

Is it ok to thin body filler for small thin spots or should I get some 2 part putty?

 

Use the 2 part glazing putty. You don't want any shortcuts to come back and bite you later...

 

One thing that stood out on "American Restorations" years ago was when their big compressor went down and teh kid was complaining about having to use rattle cans. The father told him that if you can paint well with rattle cans, you can paint well with a spray rig, so he was told to practice.

As far as paint, I used acrylic enamel on my '63 Fairlane 500 and it came out great. I am by no means a pro but have done enough to know when to lay it on and when to stop.

And if you see bare metal after sanding off filler, you have might a high spot. Use a long board to make sure you are getting a good flat surface. Don't want to spend money for a long board? Grab a nice 1x3 that has a good straight edge and buy a roll of 1" wide emery cloth. Hold a strip of the emery cloth on the edge and have at it.

Got a concave part that you want uniformity? Use a tightly rolled up and taped magazine and wrap it with a sheet of emery cloth.

And if you need to get a dent out, remember that when you use a hammer and dolly, it is hammer on, dolly off, or dolly on, hammer off. Never, never hit the dent with the dolly underneath or you will stretch the metal and never get the dent out and will make it worse.

Good luck.

Later!
Mr. Ed

 

Thanks tinman and mr ed. I ordered some evercoat glazing putty. Still applying filler and sanding. Getting the hang of it kind of. Wish it would stay soft a bit longer. Purchased a random orbit air sander. Works a lot better than the electric! Also using rigid and soft sand sanding blocks. The soft sanding blocks are a great invention. Just ordered another set, the shorter 5" ones. Another lesson learned is to use quality sand paper. Norton is expensive but good stuff. Cuts good, lasts longer and doesn't blind like cheap crap.

 

If you add less hardener it will stay soft longer. Did you get a "cheese grater" for fast removal of the high points? Gotta have a cheese grater.

Later!
Mr. Ed