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1997 F350 w/ 460 has no spark

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  #16  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
I would check and make sure you are getting power up to the coil, through one of the small wires that hook onto the coil. You have to turn the ignition switch on when you check this.
Yep I got power to the coil, so it might be that the distributor isn't grounding to give a spark. Correct? Should I know anything specific or any tricks when replacing one?
 
  #17  
Old 09-12-2017, 10:03 PM
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With all you checked and replaced I would say it's time to replace the distributor.

Before pulling the old distributor, line up your timing marks to 0 or 10 degrees before top dead center and look where the rotor is pointing. If it's pointing 180 degrees away from the number 1 on the distributor cap, ideally give the engine one full turn to point at number 1. Use a socket on the front of the crankshaft to do this. Now when you install the new distributor, you will know where you're at.
 
  #18  
Old 09-13-2017, 06:56 AM
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If he does not have a timing light he needs to do a lot more tests before pulling or turning the distributor.

I did not see where he has check much of anything yet.
Nothing about checking for CM codes. Needs to check them first to make sure the PIP is bad in the distributor before pulling the distributor out.

I am not sure about his fuel pressure being OK either. Unless he has very bad fuel tanks I dough the old fuel injection filter was bad. My 1995 F150 and my 1994 F53 still have their factory installed fuel injection filter. They run just fine and the F150 had been through two FDM's and one new fuel tank. In each tank you have a sock filter + a screen strainer on each FDM before the fuel even gets to the fuel pump. If the truck has not been setting with old fuel or rusty tanks and you use both fuel tanks I think the fuel injection filter should last for the life of the truck.

I read where a lot of posters on here have fuel problems and change their fuel injection filter and then still have the same fuel problem.
 
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:31 AM
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Bill spells it out pretty clear. Lot of things to check.

Plus once you stab that distributor, you you add another variable that may just add another problem & you will have bought it. No return.

Fuel filters? Glad you've had good luck with just one.

I've seen rust "sludge" so fine you cant feel it between your fingers pour out of a filter along with water.

I figure it's easy & cheap so it's a big recommendation for me.
 
  #20  
Old 09-13-2017, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
If he does not have a timing light he needs to do a lot more tests before pulling or turning the distributor.

I did not see where he has check much of anything yet.
Nothing about checking for CM codes. Needs to check them first to make sure the PIP is bad in the distributor before pulling the distributor out.

I am not sure about his fuel pressure being OK either. Unless he has very bad fuel tanks I dough the old fuel injection filter was bad. My 1995 F150 and my 1994 F53 still have their factory installed fuel injection filter. They run just fine and the F150 had been through two FDM's and one new fuel tank. In each tank you have a sock filter + a screen strainer on each FDM before the fuel even gets to the fuel pump. If the truck has not been setting with old fuel or rusty tanks and you use both fuel tanks I think the fuel injection filter should last for the life of the truck.

I read where a lot of posters on here have fuel problems and change their fuel injection filter and then still have the same fuel problem.
I have no codes being thrown because the battery was disconnected. When I pulled codes the day it broke it threw a lean code and a misfire code.
 
  #21  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by F100Gasser
I have no codes being thrown because the battery was disconnected. When I pulled codes the day it broke it threw a lean code and a misfire code.
Update: it was the distributor. Runs now just needs timing to be adjusted. I can't find what it is timed at stock in my Haynes Manual, should be around 17 degrees maybe? Thanks guys I appreciate it.
 
  #22  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:26 PM
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10 degrees BTDC.
 
  #23  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:27 PM
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Most all these engines call for 10 degrees before top dead center with the spout connector removed. I think this one is the same.
 
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
Most all these engines call for 10 degrees before top dead center with the spout connector removed. I think this one is the same.
my motor won't start without the SPOUT. I had it at TDC and it ran but when I went to adjust it to 10 BTDC it won't start, any suggestions of what could've happened?
 
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:10 PM
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Double check your distributor to make sure it isn't installed 180 degrees out from where it should be.
 
  #26  
Old 09-14-2017, 08:55 PM
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I assume it won't restart even if you plug the spout back in? Was the Motorcraft distributor you bought NEW or REBUILT?
 
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
I assume it won't restart even if you plug the spout back in? Was the Motorcraft distributor you bought NEW or REBUILT?
NAPA said it was new but they charged a core charge so I'm not 100% sure. Yes it won't start after I put SPOUT back in.
 
  #28  
Old 09-14-2017, 10:14 PM
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Was the distributor in a Motorcraft box? The rebuilt distributors have a bad reputation, but they don't usually fail that soon.

I would go back to square one, if you are still getting power to the coil(ignition switch on) and all the wiring looks good I would suspect the distributor failed.
 
  #29  
Old 09-15-2017, 07:52 AM
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A bad PIP will not allow the engine to start regardless if the SPOUT is in or out. Since the truck runs with the SPOUT out I suspect the timing is way off. Putting the SPOUT in allows the computer to control the timing. SPOUT out, the TFI module triggers off the RAW PIP signal which is basically allowing the engine to run at base timing.

I suspect the outer ring on the harmonic balancer has slipped. This creates a false TDC indication. Or could be a simple mistake of which cylinder is #1 and where you placed the timing light trigger.
 
  #30  
Old 09-15-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
Was the distributor in a Motorcraft box? The rebuilt distributors have a bad reputation, but they don't usually fail that soon.

I would go back to square one, if you are still getting power to the coil(ignition switch on) and all the wiring looks good I would suspect the distributor failed.
it was in a motorcraft box. And the truck doesn't run with or without the SPOUT in, when I first got the distributor in it cranked right over and ran and sounded kinda close to being timed. We took the distributor out and adjusted it, during that the coil somehow become undone and I cranked it with the coil unplug before i realized that it was
 


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