Wrench Light
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Wrench Light
I have a 2010 F350 Dually with the 6.4 Diesel. It has 98000 miles on it. The light comes on after about 15 miles. I can stop and turn off the engine and restart and it comes on again after 15 miles. This will repeat, never stops. After driving for a couple hours the water temp gauge jumps all way hot instantly. Not just climb but jumps instantly, which then I get the loss of power message. I stopped numerous times checking water and if anything was leaking or steaming and nothing. I finally just drove and when temp gauge would jump I would get loss of power but still able to travel. After a few minutes temperature gauge would gradually drop down allowing normal conditions. This too will just keep repeating itself. I ran a scanner while wrench is on and I pick up no codes. Please help cause I do like the truck and don't wanna go back to 75,000 in debt
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 58
From: East Tawas, MI
Agreed, do the cap, it's been remanufacured just because they were faulty off the line.
Quick feelgood check is have the thing pressure tested and see if it holds 16 lbs.
My bet is not.
2nd thing would be to R and R the thermostats.
Afternoon job and very inexpensive. Known failure point as well.
Check out Diesel Ron's utube video for pointers on the therms. Pretty straight forward. Motorcraft only (caution).
Denny
Quick feelgood check is have the thing pressure tested and see if it holds 16 lbs.
My bet is not.
2nd thing would be to R and R the thermostats.
Afternoon job and very inexpensive. Known failure point as well.
Check out Diesel Ron's utube video for pointers on the therms. Pretty straight forward. Motorcraft only (caution).
Denny
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,302
Likes: 2,197
so becareful about temp related gong back to normal if you keep driving. the temp system measure metal temps...not coolant temps...so you could have no coolant and still get normal temps on the gauge...while the heads and cylinders get hot spots and cracks.
so a bad cap and incorrect coolant/water mix will do exactly what you are describing. get the guage with the hose and rubber ball to test your coolant system coolant/water ratios
any coolant in your oil
any sweet smell in the exhaust
check for signs of orings on hoses and seals leaking
6.4's have about 5 cooling system related problems which involve heads/piston cracks//holes, coolant/oil exchanger leaks, eger leaks, coolant pump body leaks, orings on hoses that leak.
becareful about drving it with a cooling system problem...your risking heads and cylinder cracks and holes due to hot spots.
also listen for fan kicking in ...if it never does..could be a fan clutch or fan control circut problem.
so a bad cap and incorrect coolant/water mix will do exactly what you are describing. get the guage with the hose and rubber ball to test your coolant system coolant/water ratios
any coolant in your oil
any sweet smell in the exhaust
check for signs of orings on hoses and seals leaking
6.4's have about 5 cooling system related problems which involve heads/piston cracks//holes, coolant/oil exchanger leaks, eger leaks, coolant pump body leaks, orings on hoses that leak.
becareful about drving it with a cooling system problem...your risking heads and cylinder cracks and holes due to hot spots.
also listen for fan kicking in ...if it never does..could be a fan clutch or fan control circut problem.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 670
Likes: 13
From: Nampa, ID
so becareful about temp related gong back to normal if you keep driving. the temp system measure metal temps...not coolant temps...so you could have no coolant and still get normal temps on the gauge...while the heads and cylinders get hot spots and cracks.
so a bad cap and incorrect coolant/water mix will do exactly what you are describing. get the guage with the hose and rubber ball to test your coolant system coolant/water ratios
any coolant in your oil
any sweet smell in the exhaust
check for signs of orings on hoses and seals leaking
6.4's have about 5 cooling system related problems which involve heads/piston cracks//holes, coolant/oil exchanger leaks, eger leaks, coolant pump body leaks, orings on hoses that leak.
becareful about drving it with a cooling system problem...your risking heads and cylinder cracks and holes due to hot spots.
also listen for fan kicking in ...if it never does..could be a fan clutch or fan control circut problem.
so a bad cap and incorrect coolant/water mix will do exactly what you are describing. get the guage with the hose and rubber ball to test your coolant system coolant/water ratios
any coolant in your oil
any sweet smell in the exhaust
check for signs of orings on hoses and seals leaking
6.4's have about 5 cooling system related problems which involve heads/piston cracks//holes, coolant/oil exchanger leaks, eger leaks, coolant pump body leaks, orings on hoses that leak.
becareful about drving it with a cooling system problem...your risking heads and cylinder cracks and holes due to hot spots.
also listen for fan kicking in ...if it never does..could be a fan clutch or fan control circut problem.
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Western Montana
For sure, the fan is very loud when engaged I didn't realize what I was missing until mine was replaced. I went with the snowplow recommended version because I sometimes carry items in a front hitch.
In case you are wondering, I was hauling a small load when my truck overheated quickly. It was completely fine when I moved the load which is strange to me, but true. There was no warning that the previous fan wasn't engaging. It simply got hot really fast and went into some sort of limp mode when it did.
Now though, the fan sure is loud until the truck warms up which is kind of backwards in some ways.
In case you are wondering, I was hauling a small load when my truck overheated quickly. It was completely fine when I moved the load which is strange to me, but true. There was no warning that the previous fan wasn't engaging. It simply got hot really fast and went into some sort of limp mode when it did.
Now though, the fan sure is loud until the truck warms up which is kind of backwards in some ways.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Sometimes when I start the truck up in the morning...back out, and roll in drive...the fan...or something is very loud...almost revving with the engine...then it quickly dies back down. I've never known why that happens. Is it just the fan running itself through some sort of full power band checkup?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,302
Likes: 2,197
It's a poor design
temp sensor is on the block
when you start and warm up the engine thermostat is closed
metal around sensor heats up and computer thinks engine is hot....turns on the fan
a few minutes later... thermos opens and coolant circulates to radiator ...metal around temp sensor cools and computer shuts off the fan.
meanwhile...the entire cooling system is still cold
temp sensor is on the block
when you start and warm up the engine thermostat is closed
metal around sensor heats up and computer thinks engine is hot....turns on the fan
a few minutes later... thermos opens and coolant circulates to radiator ...metal around temp sensor cools and computer shuts off the fan.
meanwhile...the entire cooling system is still cold
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Thanks fritz. Interesting...though it happens even without letting the truck warm up at all. I start it...back out...put it in drive...and then slowly apply throttle to start moving...then I hear the fan rev up loudly...then it goes away.
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mikeinarizona
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Feb 21, 2005 11:13 AM