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Have You Removed Your Spare Tire?

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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 09:46 AM
  #16  
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Nice diagrams. What catalog did you find it in? Got a link?

The tie-down in the third diagram (part 1474) is what was on my truck except it was installed in the opposite direction shown. It won't work with my wheel style used as shown. I can see how the design is fine if used on the correct wheel. I don't know how it got there but I have a solution now and that is what matters.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 10:47 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Cummings Guy
Nice diagrams. What catalog did you find it in? Got a link?

The tie-down in the third diagram (part 1474) is what was on my truck except it was installed in the opposite direction shown. It won't work with my wheel style used as shown. I can see how the design is fine if used on the correct wheel. I don't know how it got there but I have a solution now and that is what matters.
Those are ford diagrams my guy. I work for a dealer.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 04:18 PM
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cheers Sandy, unfortunately our trucks aren't very common here in Australia, I'll check out RA but for now I think Ill just keep the spare in the tray. Might even build a frame to keep it in there.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rj1983
cheers Sandy, unfortunately our trucks aren't very common here in Australia, I'll check out RA but for now I think Ill just keep the spare in the tray. Might even build a frame to keep it in there.
Well I just got pictures of mine for you. My signature shows what my truck is. I think everything is like it should be except for the bracket on the one eye bolt. It goes to the top of the hold down bar I think but it works fine where it is. In the last picture you use a 1/2" ratchet without a socket to tighten the bolt. My rear gas tank is right above the spare. Sandy








 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 06:56 PM
  #20  
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The 4th diagram is the easiest to use by a long shot. Only time it's a nuisance is during wood cutting season, if I need it I might have to unload a lot of firewood.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 07:23 PM
  #21  
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sandymane
I noticed something in the photo that you might want to check out. The carriage bolt for the tie down is not seated properly. The bolt is likely to spin when you go to remove the tie-down because the diamond shaped feature on the bolt is not captured in the diamond shaped hole in the support bracket. The factory uses a push nut to hold the carriage bolt to the bracket. I'd loose that and get washers and a regular nut to hold it in place. You'll need a washer or two with a large enough hole for the diamond to fit into then one with a smaller hole to span the hole in the larger washer for the nut to seat onto. Some thread locker would be a good idea.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 09:22 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cummings Guy
sandymane
I noticed something in the photo that you might want to check out. The carriage bolt for the tie down is not seated properly. The bolt is likely to spin when you go to remove the tie-down because the diamond shaped feature on the bolt is not captured in the diamond shaped hole in the support bracket. The factory uses a push nut to hold the carriage bolt to the bracket. I'd loose that and get washers and a regular nut to hold it in place. You'll need a washer or two with a large enough hole for the diamond to fit into then one with a smaller hole to span the hole in the larger washer for the nut to seat onto. Some thread locker would be a good idea.
Thanks. Funny I didn't notice it until I took the picture. Was going to do it tomorrow. I like your idea but I need clarification on what you mean by this if you have time.

First are you talking about replacing the carriage bolt or cutting the head of it off........ "You'll need a washer or two with a large enough hole for the diamond to fit into? then one with a smaller hole to span the hole in the larger washer for the nut to seat onto". ......Thanks Sandy
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 09:50 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MR KROGOTH
Attached all the diagrams for the spare brackets I could find in the catalog.


I would really like to find a truck with this style spare mount. Seems like it is the easiest to deal with, and was lockable.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 12:29 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 1985 Bronco
I would really like to find a truck with this style spare mount. Seems like it is the easiest to deal with, and was lockable.

Check the local junkyard & u pull lots.
I had to replace my bed a couple years ago & the one I got from pull & save had one in it.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 01:03 AM
  #25  
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No, you should be able to use the bolt that you have now if the threads are good all the way down to the head. You may have to chase the threads to get the rust off so that the new nut will spin on. Wire brushing may be enough. This is like a carriage bolt except it has a diamond shape anti-spin feature rather than a square, at least on my truck it is that way. Since the diamond is thicker than the bracket, a washer is needed to build up the thickness so that the nut will draw the head tight against the bracket rather than seating on the diamond. Depending on the thickness of the washer it may require two. The other washer would have a hole for size of the bolt. A fender washer would be best. Then just run the nut down and tighten it up. Thread locker would be a good idea. If you cut the bolt until it is just the right length it will make it easier to get the wheel off and on.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 01:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cummings Guy
No, you should be able to use the bolt that you have now if the threads are good all the way down to the head. You may have to chase the threads to get the rust off so that the new nut will spin on. Wire brushing may be enough. This is like a carriage bolt except it has a diamond shape anti-spin feature rather than a square, at least on my truck it is that way. Since the diamond is thicker than the bracket, a washer is needed to build up the thickness so that the nut will draw the head tight against the bracket rather than seating on the diamond. Depending on the thickness of the washer it may require two. The other washer would have a hole for size of the bolt. A fender washer would be best. Then just run the nut down and tighten it up. Thread locker would be a good idea. If you cut the bolt until it is just the right length it will make it easier to get the wheel off and on.
Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like a great idea. Sandy Mine are diamond shaped also.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 07:43 PM
  #27  
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I've had my share of troubles with the spare tire mounts on my trucks. I totally agree that changing a tire on the highway with this setup would be scary to say the least. In the future, you might try a better penetrating oil than WD-40.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 08:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Big_Al59
Check the local junkyard & u pull lots.
I had to replace my bed a couple years ago & the one I got from pull & save had one in it.
I can tell you i have probably seen 1000+ of these trucks in yards and have not once seen this style of mount - dont know how common they were down here in the south. I have scoured for one as i wish to retain the ability to carry a spare and to replace the rear tank with a bronco one.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 09:20 PM
  #29  
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From: west plains spokane,wa
Originally Posted by MR KROGOTH
I can tell you i have probably seen 1000+ of these trucks in yards and have not once seen this style of mount - dont know how common they were down here in the south. I have scoured for one as i wish to retain the ability to carry a spare and to replace the rear tank with a bronco one.
I thought I read somewhere on here a few years that they came on Canadian f series trucks.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 07:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MR KROGOTH
I can tell you i have probably seen 1000+ of these trucks in yards and have not once seen this style of mount - dont know how common they were down here in the south. I have scoured for one as i wish to retain the ability to carry a spare and to replace the rear tank with a bronco one.

The bed mount?
 
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