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74 f250 FE360 4wd MT rear sump. Oil is leaking from around the dipstick tube (see attached pic). From what I've read I need to drop the oil pan and ?reseal? the area. Is this what the forum gurus would recommend? Any tips on what to use to seal the area up? Thanks for the help.
Ok so decided to go ahead and drain the oil pan, but now I can't remove it completely because this dumb bracket is welded to the dipstick and bolted onto one of the exhaust bolts. Does anyone know if this bracket is factory? Or for a 360 4WD?
Edit* the bolt is currently being soaked in some pb blaster
That bracket should be attached to the dip stick tube it holds the dip stick tube from flopping all over. And the dip stick tube If I recall correctly has an O-Ring on it where it goes in to the pans tube.
It was dumb to not weld it in the right place to the bracket.
After looking closer at the pic, I assume it was originally welded at the end in the curl of the bracket? Would explain why it's a bit tricky to get the dipstick out lol
Also should the bracket be aiming the dipstick towards the front as opposed to the firewall? If it was welded in the curl and facing as it is now (towards the firewall) I wouldn't be able to get it out.
Ya never estimate the stupidity of my PO. He threw away a TC, welded (use that term loosely) in a square tube, and bolted a 2wd shaft in its place.
fordguy2100,
My 77 F-150 4x4 W/351M was leaking between the oil pan and cast iron dipstick mount. Appeared over the years the rivets become lose because the OEM gasket became compressed (thin) and brittle.
When I changed the rear main seal, while having the oil pan off, I drilled out the rivets, got stainless steel screws, nylon lock nuts and used PERMATEX (can't recall the specific name of it, but it comes in an aerosol can). It hasn't leaked since re-assembling it back in November 2016. This remedy might be an option for you.
fordguy2100,
My 77 F-150 4x4 W/351M was leaking between the oil pan and cast iron dipstick mount. Appeared over the years the rivets become lose because the OEM gasket became compressed (thin) and brittle.
When I changed the rear main seal, while having the oil pan off, I drilled out the rivets, got stainless steel screws, nylon lock nuts and used PERMATEX (can't recall the specific name of it, but it comes in an aerosol can). It hasn't leaked since re-assembling it back in November 2016. This remedy might be an option for you.
Awesome thanks for the recommendation. I might go that route
Does anyone know what that gasket around the dipstick tube is called or a part #? Mine is in pretty bad shape. Looks like I'll probably be drilling out the rivets to replace this part. Ill try the stainless steel route but need to know what should go in its place. Thinking maybe the gasket paper AZ carries or something similar?
Does anyone know what that gasket around the dipstick tube is called or a part #? Mine is in pretty bad shape. Looks like I'll probably be drilling out the rivets to replace this part. Ill try the stainless steel route but need to know what should go in its place. Thinking maybe the gasket paper AZ carries or something similar?
I Don't believe it was ever available separate from the pan .
You will have to make your own.
Alternatively use a bead of Threebond 1194 that will seal it permanently. You can use it seal the dip stick tube also.
It is what OEM's use to seal the crank cases on motorcycles.
Any Cycle shop will carry it.
fordguy2010,
I don't have the gasket part number, sorry. The PERMATEX gasket maker that I mentioned earlier (August 21), that comes in the aerosol can is called "Mr. Right". That stuff has an excellent reputation and I used in lieu of the gasket. I have gasket material available but opted not to use it. I highly recommend "PERMATEX Mr. Right".
fordguy2010,
I don't have the gasket part number, sorry. The PERMATEX gasket maker that I mentioned earlier (August 21), that comes in the aerosol can is called "Mr. Right". That stuff has an excellent reputation and I used in lieu of the gasket. I have gasket material available but opted not to use it. I highly recommend "PERMATEX Mr. Right".
Threebond 1194 is a superior sealant to the Permatex right stuff. The Right Stuff is the best silicone sealant on the market but it is still a silicone.
The Threebond 1100 Series of sealants are not silicone but ester resins making them impervious to solvents such as gasoline and oil like motor oil.
Alternatively there is Loctite 515 that is also an ester based sealant.
When silicone is submerged in motor oil (especially if their are trace amounts of gasoline like in motor oil) it will soften over time lose it's adhesion to the mating surface and eventually fail.
There is a reason Ester sealants and not silicone are used to seal multi piece crankcases on motorcycles and 2 stroke engines, silicone sealants don't hold up in those applications.
This is one application where I would shelve the silicone and step to the next level of sealants/gasket makers.
I Don't believe it was ever available separate from the pan .
You will have to make your own.
Alternatively use a bead of Threebond 1211 that will seal it permanently. You can use it seal the dip stick tube also.
It is what OEM's use to seal the crank cases on motorcycles.
Any Cycle shop will carry it.
thanks I'll look into that stuff.
Edit* just saw your second post. Sounds like this will last longer than the permatex, I'm definitely looking that stuff up as I type this lol
Originally Posted by EQCMCAT
fordguy2010,
I don't have the gasket part number, sorry. The PERMATEX gasket maker that I mentioned earlier (August 21), that comes in the aerosol can is called "Mr. Right". That stuff has an excellent reputation and I used in lieu of the gasket. I have gasket material available but opted not to use it. I highly recommend "PERMATEX Mr. Right".
So did you use it where the old gasket went and then tightened down or just tightened everything down and sealed the edges?
Also is this the stuff, didn't see anything called mr right but I'm pretty familiar with "the right stuff"
thanks I'll look into that stuff.
Edit* just saw your second post. Sounds like this will last longer than the permatex, I'm definitely looking that stuff up as I type this lol
So did you use it where the old gasket went and then tightened down or just tightened everything down and sealed the edges?
Also is this the stuff, didn't see anything called mr right but I'm pretty familiar with "the right stuff"
Ya it is Threebond 1194/1184 not 1211 I edited the post when I noticed my mistake.
I think the number has been changed up to 1184 now. Originally it was 1104 but it had lead in it then they reduced the lead content and the number was changed 1194 now I believe they have removed all the lead from it and it now called 1184
If the rivets are still tight, should I bother drilling them out or should I just use that stuff to seal around it? Or is that just going to delay the problem and eventually it'll leak once the gasket material completely breaks down?
