It doesn't seem a lot of "new" tuning stuff is coming out for our 7.3L lately. I missed the big development stages (maybe that's a good thing- window'd blocks )

Maybe some better tunes will be coming out from everyone? Renewed interest in 7.3 tunes (and turbos!) could be good for our dinosaurs

 

As long as their is passion for the 7.3, new stuff will keep coming out hopefully..... to all the vendors and aftermarket support my hats off to y'all.

 

I would personally run 80% nozzles. 160's seem like a waist of money to me but if your not looking for power then 160-80% would be what I would choose. Now I have 238-80% and have had loads 19-20k behind my truck making everything in the 31k zone in the pnw pulling 7-8% grades at 55-60mph. I have gear head tunes and couldn't be happier with them. It's really all in the tuning on how your truck performs if everything is healthy. I went with the largest injector Gearhead recommended without live tuning, (80% just because there cleaner than 100's) so I would rather have a much larger injector turned down to make what a 160 would make power wise for towing and grow into the injectors down the road with supporting mods. My brother has 238-80's in his OBS with the stock charger and it does fine (2yrs now). His hi tune makes less HP than my low tune. Just something to chew on I don't like spending 2k just to be disappointed that I didn't go bigger when I could do what I did and have them turned down to what the 160's would doing maxed out.

 

This makes hybrids sound very appealing. I knew they could be detuned, but I didn't know how much. Those towing numbers are extremely impressive, another reason that hybrids sound great. I think I'd be happy with around 400hp/800tq to the wheels. I know that 160/80 would hit those numbers, but it'd probably be on the wide open tune which I'd prefer to not drive around in constantly. Hybrids would hit those numbers with no issue. I'm just not sure if I'm up for all of the supporting mods down the road. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does this list of supporting mods sound about right?

Built trans
Complete fuel system
Studs, valve springs, and pushrods (these might be optional from what I've read but I'm not sure)
Turbo
HPOP (depending on health of mine)

 

my lowest tune which I pull those loads in is 399hp and 806tq to the wheels on 35's. My hoop is stock (holds great psi) I have no studs, or pushrods (left stock on purpose, I would rather bend a pushrod than break a rocker) I made my own full RR, comp 910 valve springs, and 38r which I would run a kc38r if I did it over again. Gearhead is who told me they can be detuned to stock hp levels I have never personally had it done just a fyi there. The valve springs are only necessary with over 40psi of boost (higher mileage motor would decrease that #), I knew I would be close and for only 100$ it was cheap so I did them. Built trans would be my #1 (I'm 6speed) I made my RR for 200$, my truck has not had a issue with hg and it's lived in the 450hp tune for 2 almost 3 years on PMR rods and stock bolts and gets the total dog **** ran out of it so I would be inclined to say head studs are not needed. (There recommended with anything over 40psi of boost as well (I'm running 36 on my high tune) 28 on my 400hp low tune). I would definitely get a fuel psi guage if you don't have one to watch your lift pump health (mines stock with no issues)/ fuel filter. Turbo you don't absolutely need, tell your tuner and they will pull some fuel and later on down the road if you do get a turbo, call have a new tune sent and Walla.

 

Any injector can be de-tuned! If you can make 'em idle, you can tune them to make 100 rwhp! The only trade off is idle quality and street manners. The bigger the nozzle, the more precise the tuning needs to be. Bigger nozzles will also lead to more smoke on initial pedal tip in, before the turbo has a chance to spool. That being said, 80% nozzles are no big deal for the competent tuners to make them behave like stock nozzles.

 

I was not looking to make big power. I wanted better power and maybe a little extra oomph to get on the freeway. I also didn't want to add too much extra as I have PMRs. For me 160/80 was right up my alley: more fuel capacity, bigger nozzles, uses less oil, lower EGTs, everyone seems to be able to program them no problem, and I'll have my stock turbo for quite awhile longer. I also have a smog every 2 years so want to stay on the mild side to make it easy to keep the truck's stock manners.

 

gotcha, sounds like your on the right path. I don't have to smog so I was open. Now something to consider (I have pmr's to) is what I was told by Kenton at Gearhead was bigger the nozzle the faster they can get the fuel in and lower egt's and cylinder pressures which cause pmr's to break. I chose 80% because the atomize the fuel like 0% and better than 30% and 100% nozzles, and are cleaner.

 

I have forged rods (one good thing about an early 99). I got my transmission beefed up pretty good by a local builder, but I need to check with my builder as to just how much power it can hold lol. A stock turbo would live longer and better with some 160/80s, and I'm fairly certain I'd be fine with the power the 160/80s put out. They've gotta be better than the stock 130cc injectors lol. I think for my budget, 160/80s are the way to go...but hybrids sound like a lot of fun!

 

Subscribing.

 

What did you end up going with on your upgrade? I have an E99 and preparing for a similar upgrade, so I am curious to see what your results were.

Thanks.

 

I still haven't bought injectors yet as I'm trying to be smart financially and not buy injectors until I NEED them. I'll probably go with 160/30 or 160/80 though. Unless there's a sale on 160/0 when the time comes to buy injectors.

 

Full Force has a sale on their injectors right now, I just ordered some 180/80s on Friday.

 

Just some advice from someone you don't know, but either stick with 160/0 or 160/80. The 160/30 option adds nothing to the ability of the injector, it only adds to the cost.

 

The most I have heard of someone dynoing on a 160/0 is about 350-360 hp, 160/30s can get you close to 400 with good tuning and supporting mods.