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Found several threads on the removal of the pitman arm but couldnt find any on how to install/press the pitman arm back. BTW, I had no issues removing it using a puller.
So my question/concern is that I can't seem to get the arm flush, it only goes in about half way. I lined it up and it easily goes in half way but then it won't budge, which I assume its because of the tapering. I tried to tighten the locking washer and nut, in hopes of pressing further up but it wouldnt budge. Any suggestions?
Does it have one, or more, fat splines? If not, or it's aligned, tap a chisel in the gap to spread it open a bit. Do NOT beat on it with a hammer, you'll ruin the steering gear.
Does it have one, or more, fat splines? If not, or it's aligned, tap a chisel in the gap to spread it open a bit. Do NOT beat on it with a hammer, you'll ruin the steering gear.
You just answered my question about the hammer. It has 3 fat splines which allow it to slide in about half way. I have an original pitman arm so its solid, no split.
You are sure it is the correct arm and not an off-shore product?
The arm should bottom out on the splines while tightening the retaining nut and washer to final torque specs.
If you are sure the arm is correct, use at a minimum 1/2" drive (3/4" set is nice) socket and long handled ratchet/breaker bar.
Im almost 99.99% sure, under the crappy paint is an old rusted pitman arm. It has 4 flat splines that match the splines on the gear box. The arm easily inserts about half way, which confirms splines match up. I will try the breaker bar, I was trying with a regular length ratchet and maybe just didnt didnt have enough leverage to drive it in. I also just borrowed an impact wrench from a buddy.
What is the torque spec for the pitman arm nut? I found the VanPelt torque specs for the engine components.
Make sure the splines on the shaft and arm are indexed correctly. There is an area on the arm that spans two splines making a flat, this fits into the wider gap between two splines on the shaft seen in your photo.
You want to get a manual to get the spec on the torque. It's going to be at least 100 lbs which is going to be near impossible with a regular ratchet. You will not move it with that without tearing out your back.
I will double check the indexing but everything so far appears to be correct.
I dont recall the torque specs in the Shop Manual but I will also double check. Initially I was nervous about using too much force on the nut to push the arm in but if its in the 100lbs torque range then it shouldnt be an issue putting some leverage/muscle behind a breaker bar/Torque wrench.
120 is a lot of gump Ross as I just had to hit all the spring u-bolts on my build with 108 and it was a chore even with the long heavy duty torque stick! Knowing I am in same place on my build with regards to the pitman arm, what would be the best way to lock it as you suggest above?
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Any issue using a larger socket and hammer? I want to make sure I dont damage the steering box with hammer impacts.
