Cold A/C mod question?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,097
Likes: 1,504
From: western SD
This is what I thought too. But I found that the water pump pulls the water threw the heater core, so the hose from the head would be the supply side.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,418
Likes: 197
From: AZ
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,266
Likes: 1,649
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Hmmm this is news to me. I always thought the water pump outlet pushes, why when you remove the hose and start the truck you get coolant gushes out from the water pump outlet and not a whole lot from the head? Well at least that's what mine does.
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 318
Likes: 7
Well the water pump is for sure pushing some water up the other hose to the heater core because I double check that my valve on the head side was closed. After a drive yesterday the head line was super hot up to the valve. After the valve it was still hot and so was the other hose to the water pump. Going to add a valve to the other side and see what that does with both completely shut off.
You don't think the hot coolant melted the plastic seal inside my current ball valve and is letting hot coolant by? It is a brass lever ball valve. I would assume those are rated for some pretty hot temps.
You don't think the hot coolant melted the plastic seal inside my current ball valve and is letting hot coolant by? It is a brass lever ball valve. I would assume those are rated for some pretty hot temps.
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 318
Likes: 7
Well that is probably what I will end up doing since this route didn't work out so great.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,173
Likes: 1,333
From: Bahstun
dead heading the water pump for the heater wont be an issue since its an open impeller
The head is the return. If you used a normal buna N seal, it might not last long and need teflon or Viton
The head is the return. If you used a normal buna N seal, it might not last long and need teflon or Viton
