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Hi All, I just bought a 1981 F250 with an inoperative speedometer.
I have verified the speedometer functions, and the gear at the end of the cable (that goes into the transfer case) turns the cable nice and smooth - when I turn the gear by hand.
I pulled the cable out of the housing and verified it isn't broken.
When I insert the speedometer cable gear and housing into the transfer case, making sure it is bottomed in the transfer case and the o-ring not showing, I find that I can still turn the cable at the head end - so it appears the cable gear is not meshing with the transfer case output shaft gear.
When I insert my finger in the hole in the transfer case I do feel a gear on the output shaft.
I'm perplexed...
The original 351 motor has been (sadly) swapped to a 460 by a previous owner, I don't know if the transmission or transfer case were also swapped.
The hold down bolt for the transfer case is also missing if anyone knows the details on it.
Any ideas on how to determine why the gears don't mesh? I don't know how to proceed on this one - thx!
I have a BW 1345 where the drive gear inside the transfer case has stripped and will move rearward on the output shaft. Yours may have done the same.
Hmmm, thanks Whisler, is there a way to feel the gear thru the hole in the TX case to determine if the gear is stripped and/or has moved out of position?
What I feel through the hole is a slightly concave - it's slightly lower in the middle than the front or back, output shaft gear, and I feel that the gear extends to the front and back of the hole. I didn't try to see if it would slide front or back though, I'll check tomorrow.
I got the impression that the gear at the end of the cable housing was too small to reach and mesh with the output shaft gear - if that info helps narrow it down. I wonder if there is a range of min to max teeth that would mesh, & I guess I should count the teeth on the cable gear.
Also, the hold down bolt is missing (gotta love those PO's haha) and I would really like to find out the diameter, length, thread, etc. so I can get a bolt...
The gear in mine is straight across, not concave. If yours is worn away in the middle, it may be preventing engagement with the driven gear.
ETA: to be clear, when I say that my gear is stripped, what I really mean is that it has loss engagement with the output shaft and spins relatively freely.
Last edited by whisler; Aug 14, 2017 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: additional clarity
There's a number similar to this on the BW T/C tag: E1TA-7A195-DA, post what it is so I can figure out what it was swapped from.
There was no ratio of 3.00-1 used with the BW T/C, so it's been swapped in.
DRIVE gear on the output shaft; DRIVEN gear at the end of the cable.
The DRIVEN gear is probably nylon, but the DRIVE gear could be cast iron, steel or nylon and could have 6 or 7 or 8 teeth.
If the DRIVE gear is nylon, what color is it?
Thanks - this is everything on the TX Case tag:
1345-12 116219 EDEITA-DA
There is unfortunately no way for me to see into the cable hole - while the TX Case is in the truck - unless maybe with a mirror - I'll try to find my mirror.
I'm fearing the TX Case is from a newer truck and look forward to any info you can find on that tag info.
By the way, which TX Case was used in the 1981 F250 with 3.00 gears?
The gear in mine is straight across, not concave. If yours is worn away in the middle, it may be preventing engagement with the driven gear.
ETA: to be clear, when I say that my gear is stripped, what I really mean is that it has loss engagement with the output shaft and spins relatively freely.
Ok thx for that clarification - I'll check and see if my drive gear is engaged with the output shaft.
Thanks - this is everything on the TX Case tag:
1345-12 116219 EDEITA-DA
There is unfortunately no way for me to see into the cable hole - while the TX Case is in the truck - unless maybe with a mirror - I'll try to find my mirror.
I'm fearing the TX Case is from a newer truck and look forward to any info you can find on that tag info.
By the way, which TX Case was used in the 1981 F250 with 3.00 gears?
A lot of the earlier trucks came with NP 208 transfer cases. On some of these transfer cases they have a short snout on the back that can be easily removed for access to the gear. Just take the driveshaft out and unbolt it. You may have to unbolt the yoke on the output if that is the style it has too.
Ok many thanks for looking that up! Glad there are folks like you in these forums with so much Ford knowledge.
Wish I had the 3.54 gears or even 4.10's instead of the 3.00.
I think T/C swap explains why the gears aren't meshing - I also just noticed the cable hold down bracket on the T/C is for a much larger diameter housing end. My cable has a rectangular hold down bracket attached but the T/C case has a large U shaped hold down that is too big to contact the end of the cable housing - so won't hold it in the T/C.
I wonder if I need to get the cable housing for that T/C and then start figuring which gear I would need?
Reading between the lines, if your transfer case was never offered in a truck with a 3.00 rearend, they may not make the proper gear. Or possibly Dodge or Chevy did use this transfer case with a 3.00 gear, not sure on that.
I guess you could get a 3.54 gear and then have your speedo recalibrated.
Reading between the lines, if your transfer case was never offered in a truck with a 3.00 rearend, they may not make the proper gear. Or possibly Dodge or Chevy did use this transfer case with a 3.00 gear, not sure on that.
I guess you could get a 3.54 gear and then have your speedo recalibrated.
This is true, and considering the original 8.00-16.5 wheels/tires have been swapped with taller LT235/85R16's it's effectively geared even higher, needing an even smaller driven gear than just the change from 3.54 to 3.00 - but you never know - I may get lucky and find a gear that's reasonably close - say less than 10% off that I could live with.
So now the big question is what cable housing will work with this T/C as it appears I do not have the correct cable housing for this T/C - did the BW 1345 that I have now use a different speedo cable housing & gear (excluding number of teeth) than my original NP T/C? If so I will hunt the correct housing down...
BTW my wheelbase is 133" (the same as a single cab long bed?) - for matching housing and cable length.
On my swap (see sig.) I pulled an '89 EFI 5.0/M5OD/BW1345 and put in a carbed '84 351/C6/NP208. I just pulled the speedo. cable from the BW1345, changed the Driven gear and re-installed in the NP208. Hold-down worked just fine.
Given this I don't understand why yours is different. My BW1345 was an '89 but can't see them making major case casting changes. I'm confused.
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