Hey Friends,

I have an 86 F150 351w, 4x4, shortbed, single cab that is making some noises recently. It developed a couple of weeks ago and was intermittent, but now it is constant and much louder. At 20 mph it’s draws attention in my neighborhood….embarrassing for a guy who takes pride in the Blue Oval. Anyway, it occurs while in motion (2 wheel drive, hubs unlocked) and sounds like it’s coming from up front. The sound is a squealing noise, metal to metal like. I thought it could be the brakes but in addition to the squealing there is a clanking noise as well. I don’t always hear the clanking noise, as it is not as loud. The clanking noise is best heard when given a little more gas from a stop….. moderate acceleration. I’ve little time these days, but crawled underneath to look at the driveshaft wondering if it could be a U-joint issue, as I do hear an initial clanking like noise when the truck is put in reverse from park. Visually, I don’t see anything wrong underneath. I twisted on the drive shaft and do not feel any excessive slop, but then the truck is in park and on my slopped driveway. I feel that combined clanking and squealing noise is related. Your thoughts on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
John

 

Do you have the factory wheel center caps?
They are held on with 3 screws, they can loosen and "clank" while rotating.
We need photos!

 

reamer, thanks for coming to my aid. The truck does have the factory hubs....see photos. Do you think both these sounds could be coming from the hubs?

 

He is saying that pretty chrome part around the locking hub and covers the center axle out back may be loose. See the 3 screws try and see if they will tighten any.


Now think about this, hubs unlocked, out of 4x4 the only thing turning up front would be the wheel assy.
The axles, gears & front drive shift should not be moving and if try you can spin the front drive shaft by hand.


I would block the wheels and get the rear wheels off the ground, take it out of gear and check the rear drive shaft Ujoints real good.
Sometimes when they fail they "chirp" when you first start moving. When real bad can clunk when putting it in gear and can also get a vibration when taking off or at speed.
Also look for rust at the joints is a sign they are bad. If you have a support bearing check it too.
Dave ----

 

Fuzz, right after posting my pics, I did exactly as you suggested and I do hear a squealing noise. It's not as loud, but then there is no real load on the drive train. I'm certain it is the U-joints now, but that clanking noise is still a bit intriguing to me, as I really do think the squealing and clanking noise are connected. Never heard U-Joints sound like that. Anyway, I went ahead and ordered both the front and rear joints for the rear drive shaft.....ordered some Spicer's that I can grease. I bought this truck brand new and those U-joints have never been replaced. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks Fellas,

John

 

Love the shortbeds!
Check those center caps anyway, one loos screw...
All you need to do is jack up one tire and spin it....(hubs unlocked)

 

Thanks Fuzz, I'll do it! Nice Truck too!

Say, let me toss in another question, if I may. My truck is stock suspension and I hate the steering. I noted issues with it just a few years after purchasing it. Seems like a lot of play in the thing. I made a small adjustment in the steering box that seemed to help a little, but it's still crap. My complaint is not uncommon it appears, as I recall reading about some things sometime back to improve this issue but got caught up in other projects and such. Thoughts?

 

When a ujoint is really bad they will click/chirp/vibrate or not do any of that and just fall out of the truck. If lucky you just have to replace the bent drive shaft or really bad replace the truck because the front of the shaft dropped, jammed into the ground and flipped the truck.


On the box, I have yet to drive my flare side because I pulled it all apart a few days after I got it home little over a year and a half ago.


Anyway I have heard of guys going with a Red Hat box and it fixed the play in the box. Also check the rest of the steering system. Rag joint could be bad and need to be replaced. Bad tie rods will also add to the play, so go over everything.
Dave ----

 

"Adjusting" the steering box is always a "bad thing" all to do there is make it harder to return to center. If a box is worn, and you replace it, even the new box can be sloppy, From what we know here, Ford boxes were cast without races, that is the bearings were mated to the machined casting of the box.
A rebuilder put in new bearings, but the if the machined surface was worn, the new box is just as sloppy as the old, Now you go "hunting" for something else.
I got a Red Head box because they machine out the cast race and press in a bearing and mated-removable race.
But the rag joint, collapsible shaft inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushing all play a part.
With a 30 year old truck, you really need to replace, repair all these components and find an alignment shop that truly understands the Ford IFS system....
This is what I did and it's now a highway cruiser....

 

Thanks reamer, I have been looking at the Red Head boxes and will probably go with one, along with replacing the other suspension components. Seems all the reviews are positive on the Red Head boxes.

 

Now, back to the squealing noise I was crying about....got my Spicer U-joints yesterday afternoon....special ordered through Orielly's. Pressed out my old u-joints, which were shot. Couple caps were even missing needle barrings. Comparing old joints to new, I noted that old joints hand four caps that measured 1.062 per each joint, front and back. This is the drive shaft that fits from the trans to the pinion on the third member. The new joints had two caps measuring 1.125 and two measuring 1.062. Went back to Orielly's and they told me they ordered the correct joints. Took my vernier calipers and the old joints with me and showed them that that was not correct. And, according to them, that is all they show for my truck.... 86, 351W, automatic 4x4. Went across the street to Auto Zone and they pulled out new joints with the same dimensions that Orielly's sold me. What is up with this? Interesting too is that the U-joints on my truck are slightly different. Same over all cap size and all but one has a divet or recession in the main body, while the other does not. The one that has the recession, is not greasable, but the other is. These are factory U-joints, original to my truck. Wondering now what that recessed area is all about. Wished I'd paid better attention to which one came off what end, as I'm thinking that recession is for clearance purposes. Can't post pictures here from work, but am hoping one of you fine fellas have knowledge here?

 

all four caps are the same dia..... Just did my 86, 351, 4x4

 

Hey friends, just a note of thanks. After three trips to O'Reilly's finally got the correct U-Joints for my truck....arghhh! Easy fix that took only about thirty minutes. No more squealing and clanking. Still don't get that clanking noise, as I've never heard that with bad U-joints but it has not resurfaced since the repair so, indeed it was the U-joints. Thanks again!

Next on the list is the power steering pump which leaks like a sieve.

 

Good news! Thanks for the follow up.

I've had U-Joints make noise and vibration that I didn't think were U-Joints.

 

I have. 1994 F150 that makes a squealing noise only when accelerating. If I take my foot off gas it stops. Anyone have any ideas??