Ross no carpet just rubber mat and no water showing anywhere. I have the manuals and it hold 14 QTS. I am trying Ray's test now so should know if a short time if I can see flow.

 

Ok - did Ray's test. When first started it had smoe minor bubbles for less than a minute. I assume they were from adding water. Got up to heat and temp said about 180 (guage has a 170 mark as that was what original ther was set for -current is 180) and water came out of the raditor filler. Then it is below the point I can see it so don't know if the overflow was just the therm opening and steamed water pushed it out. Checked around, over ,under, in front of, behind and in the vehicle and found to leaks. Checked the oil and it looks OK. Checked the exhaust and no steam.
Could it be I just put too much water it in and the level it wants to be is below where I can see it in the raditor. This has me lost
Damn orphan cars anyhow.

 

It sure sounds like it burped. Did you refill it after it warmed up, while it was still running? Not quite to the top, but close. I'd try that, then put the cap on and drive it around.

Not sure I'd use a 180 thermostat. What pressure do the Studes run at?

 

Did the stationary test. Went down a gallon. Cooled it off refilled it and took it for another test drive. Down a gallon in 8 miles. I could not see any leaks, or steam coming out anywhere. Going to try another static test tomorrow and see if I can find the place it is coming out. It is not going into the block the oil looks good. I did find a rebuilt pump for $150 so I'm ordering it also. Will let you know what happens.

 

Thanks for the update, Dave. A gallon in eight miles should show up as a pretty steady drip if the coolant is leaking and some white smoke if it is burning thru the engine.
Have you pulled the spark plugs and examined them and the cylinders? If the coolant is going thru the engine, it should be apparent.

 

I'll check the plugs tomorrow Ray. At least the oil is clean so no water there.

 

Have you tested the rad cap? AutoZone will loan a tester. I would think just idling in the driveway you'd see a leak this big.

Have you re-torqued the head gasket?

 

Hi Ross - the system is not pressurized as far as I know (but then again what do i know!) The reason I say that is the overflow tube is below the cap in the fill area then runs down to the ground- no catch can. Doesn't that make it a non-pressurized system so the cap would just be a seal and not really have anything to do with the problem? I appreciate your knowledge and input as both you and RAY have always been very good to help me on the "beast". Thanks Dave S

 

Dave, if the cap has two sealing surfaces it is a pressurized system. The lower sealing surface will pressurize the radiator itself. There will be a shelf seal an inch or so below the top of the tank. The top sealing surface will keep debris out and force the overflow coolant to exit the overflow tube as the temperatures rise and the coolant expands. My SWAG, it has a pressurized system, perhaps 4 psi or so. Pressure may be stamped on the cap.
Is there room and could you fabricate an overflow tank from a milk jug or other container?
Place it on a splash pan or the frame and run a piece of rubber hose from the overflow tube into the jug?

 

I should have included pics of the cap and fill area earlier to give you the complete picture. My error and I apologize for wasting your time by not getting all that are helping me the whole story. Ray, I don't see the shelf or the extension on the cap and it looks like the cap would not go as deep as the overflow. This is the same cal I've always had with no overheating just so you know nothing has changed. Dls.

 

Did you have the engine rebuilt? Or was just the rear main seal fixed? The cooling system looks dirty, at least the cap. It does appear to be a non-pressurized system.

Is that a horizontal plate under the tube? On some radiators, that is to indicate the Full level.

 

Ross - rebuilt the engine, trans, breaks, elec wiring, buffed out paint and recored the raditor. Yes that is a plate and that is where I fill it too.The overflow is above the plate level. I think it is rusty looking as I am using just water (no antifreeze) because I want to find the problem and it savesa few bucks - I've refilled 6 to 7 gallons so far. dls
Rebuild- with new hardend valves also
I've got about 15-1700 miles on it since the rebuild.

 

Have you re-torqued the head bolts/nuts?

 

Agree with Ross, not a pressurized system. With the coolant that rusty, it should be leaving a trail of rust color where it is coming out. If it is burning within the engine, not so. I am surprised that cooling system is so rusty with such a recent rebuild.
IMO, think about pulling the thermostat and running some cleaner thru the system. We need to get that mess out of there.
Edit: As Ross asked, has the head been retorqued? With an accurate wrench and in sequence?

 

Yes. Did it about 100 miles and 500 miles after rebuild. Remember the oil looks clean so I don't think it is the head gasket. Is it possible to have a head gasket problem between a water port and an exhaust port or some way to get to the exhaust. I have not seen any leaks and the static test in the garage did not show any amount of water on floor. Going to try Rays idea of putting a hose from overflow to a bucket as soon as I finish up work for a customer. Dls