Not the kit I just installed. On page 17 of the instructions it says recommended minimum presssure is 5lbs and maximum is 100lbs. Maybe I missed the section that says its ok to have 0lbs of pressure in them.

And it says to check the pressure on a weekly basis.

 

Looks like you have to have the ultimates (with the internal jounce bumper) for them to be safe at 0 psi.

 

Guys, I appreciate the conversation but it looks the conversation has de-railed and I'm not really getting any more valuable feedback. For those of you that wish you had the camper package on your truck, maybe you should try telling me what parts to unbolt and give me your address and I'll mail them to you free of charge. For those of you who have driven "junk" your whole life...I bet you do love the ride. If there is anyone out there that can stay focused on the problem and possibly offer some sound advice, please chime in. All others that just have nothing better to do than make off topic comments, try to refrain please. I'm here because I really need some sound advice and I really don't know what the best solution is... new shocks, swap front coil springs, remove a rear leaf....or ALL of it.

 

That last post was from my smart *** friend that got my iPad while I had to step away. Sorry about that. So, some of you mentioned that removing the extra leaf spring and swapping the front springs would help but to try new shocks first. That was my original plan but I would rather do it all at once if that is necessary. Anyone out there that can tell me their experience with changing the suspension one step at a time or that they jut changed shocks and left th camper package on the truck?

 

Try the easy/free options first. Pull the sway bar off. A sway bar can add harshness to the ride. Keep your expectations low, it's not going to make a huge difference like shocks would. Putting a sway bar back on is far easier and faster than putting a leaf spring back in.

 

Remove the sway bar for sure.

I actually had to custom order my truck because I could not locate one without the snow plow or camper package. I knew the ride would be stiff and the stiffer front springs was not something I could live with. So I have base springs up front.

As for piece mealing the suspension... I added to fox 2.0 performance shocks first. Big difference. Then I added a cap to the back so it adds about 300lbs that I'm constantly carrying. I have a full set of Deaver rear leaf springs on order and I'll update after install.

 

Carli springs, fox 2.0's all around, remove rear sway bar.

I've also got the camper package and my plan is the Carli leveling kit or backcountry kit.

mines rough in town as well when empty. I need to drop the PSI to 50 or so and see how it feels. It doesnt really bother me though, it's a 3/4 solid axle truck.

 

Sway bar only prevents side to side sway ( true you may get slightly more resistance if only one wheel hits a bump) and will have little affect on ride harshness. I felt zero difference in straight line driving after adding one to mine.

I'd personally leave it on and focus on replacing shocks first. Fox, bilstien, and ranchos are all good. My friend personally thought the bilstiens made his truck ride too stiff (compared to the stock fx4 fake ranchos). I haven't sampled the fox shock but they get very good reviews. In my experience, the rancho 9000xls ride butter smooth on position three when driving unloaded. On position 8 unloaded, it's a pretty stiff ride with freeway expansion joints, etc. I tow an RV and boat so like the ability to tune the suspension depending on what I'm doing.

FWIW, The overload springs shouldn't play a role while running unloaded as the suspension should travel ~ 2"-3" before they contact. My old truck had them while I added air bags to the newer one. Because the model of bags I used require 5psi of min air pressure, the ride was slightly stiffer after adding them. There are some models out that will now run at zero psi.something to consider if contemplating removing the overload and adding bags.

 

The sway bar stiffens the entire rear end. Similar to a solid axel. You hit a bump on the right side it effects the left side. So the stiffer you make the rear end the worse the ride will be.

 

True, but On freeway expansion joints and most bumps that impact both wheels it has little to no affect.

 

More or less true. However, if you hit a common bump with both rear wheels, then the rear sway bar has zero effect.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

Also try lowering the tire air pressures. The truck was probably delivered with the tires aired up to the pressure specs required to meet the front- and rear axle load ratings. Some find that these "fully loaded" specs lead to a harsh/jittery ride when the truck is lightly loaded.

The TPMS probably will issue a low pressure alert, but your dealer and/or FORscan can change the TPMS thresholds.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

I ordered my 17 250 with the camper package and the heavy duty towing package. It still rides better than my 14 250 did without either package, and it handles the high speed sweepers like it was on rails. I'm very pleased!

 

The dealer cannot lower the thresholds on the TPMS all the way to 50psi on the rear if the door sticker says 80psi. Mine tried and the tech said they are very limited on what they can do on the new rigs using the Ford software. Tech said I'd need to go aftermarket...ie forescan. Tech said they no longer can change tire sizes like they used to and are only limited to the tire sizes that are offered as "stock".

I just live with the warning light on the dash for now. I'm running 55 front and 50 rear.

 

That is only from the women posting on the site. Please give them a break.