Hello FTE!

Long story short, I am starting to research a new or new to us trailer. Over the past couple of years my wife and I would walk shows looking at different models with a plus and minus list of what we liked and didn't. So I am building a list for the next one. I have a good idea what to look for but could always use some additional guidance.

Frames. I know what I don't want. Something like says Ultra lite or 1/2 ton Towable. What has a good frame out there? Type of frame? C channel, Box I beam? Differences in each. Thickness. What should I be looking for?

Axles. Ratings? Sizes? Stuff like that.

Brands. I know this is a loaded question but it might be good to know which to look at and which to avoid?

I am sure I will be asking more questions. Depending what happens in the next few weeks, I am sure there will be more of them. I just really don't want to make the same mistakes if you know what I mean. Also I will be more forthcoming to my opening line of long story when I know more.

Thanks in advance.

 

You are focusing on the wrong things imo. Find a Floorplan you like and go with that

 

Far as overall quality goes, it's a crap shoot. Chris is right, find a model that works for you, particularly if your buying used since the warrenty doesn't transfer typically anyway (if it happens to be that new still).
My thoughts oon your questions specifically;
Avoid ultra lights. These increase probability of falling apart. Your truck will handle all but the biggest fifth wheels, no need to risk it here.
I wouldn't get too worried over the frame (besides checking for signs of abuse - close inspection of its been used to tandem tow) unless your going toy hauler, and have something rather heavy to haul.
A visual on the axles too assure they're rated for the rv isn't a bad idea, but just make sure the bearings/ brakes are good to go.
My biggest thing i stress now is tires. Even new units have junk china tires on them. Check the date codes (replace by 5 years of age even on a USA tire) and proper load ratings.
Far as brands go Grand Design and Forrest River seem to step up and handle problems better than the others if you go new. Not going to say they make a better mousetrap, just service it better.

 

my understanding...

only 2 frame manufacturers.. and "what" only 4 major companies that build trailer bodies..

how about going to a Travel Trailer Forum..(several ) look up almost every brand Name made..

many good and bad units.. going down the same production line.

most are built on the "promise" max number of units built per day.. with a bonus for extra units built.

as already SAID,, find a floor plan you like and can live in.. THEN find a dealer you can trust.. the hardest part. as they are the ones that will fix production errors.

do not go to the "Factory User Forum's".. as they do not allow bad talking of there units.. as defects do not happen.

 

Having an F250 will limit your trailer choices a lot. The very first thing to do is to check the white/yellow payload sticker on the driver side door post. You are probably (I'm guessing here), in the 2500 lb payload capacity range, based on the info in your signature about your truck. Fifth wheel trailers generally have a Minimum of 20% of the trailer weight on the pin or hitch....and may go as high as 25%. That eliminates all but the smallest 5vers out there. Then you have to figure at least 150-200 lbs. for the hitch, depending on brand and style of hitch. All of that weight (pin weight and hitch weight) are subtracted from your available payload number......and you are just getting started. Now subtract the weight of your passenger(s), dog, extra fuel and tank (if applicable), cargo, BBQ grill, tools, firewood, anything and everything that goes into or on the truck/truck bed. You can quickly see how a payload capacity can be consumed rather quickly on a 3/4Ton truck. There are lots of folks that will tell you that their 3/4Ton truck pulls their 14000-15000 lb 5far just fine......They are overloaded!... possibly in more than one category...payload, GVWR, GCWR, GAWR.

So, as far as looking goes, you need to decide first of all, tow behind or 5ver, and keep in mind your 5ver choices will be very limited because of your truck size. The next most important factor is floor plan. If the layout of the trailer is just so-so for you, you'll be hating it before long. There are lots and lots of choices out there....size weight, color, features, etc, but the floodplan that works best for your needs is the biggest checkmark to check off of all of them.

And just so you know, you will find lots of "eye candy" out there. Take your time, ask lots of questions and get your info from folks that are experienced in trailer towing AND trailer ownership. Research until your eyes want to pop out from information overload, and maybe join a couple of brand specific RV forums once you've narrowed down your list of possible brands/models.

 

a good point by xrated.

workable living area..

my first trailer.. if wife was cooking.. I must remain inside or outside... as she hated to move so I could get by her.

for 1 day was not a problem.. but 2 weeks... forget it.

so I sold old one and found one 10 feet longer with a Front Kitchen with a slide out.... making her happy.. big front window and sink and stove is in front of window... she could See outside and cook/etc.

 

I think Northwoods makes their own frames.

 

I've got to disagree with the shop the floor plan you want first idea. I know it's a little arrogant on my part, but I've been in, and around RV's my entire 58yr life. Quality and Engineering is your very first step to a long and lasting RV experience. Proof, if you've driven to Alaska you know first hand the examples of poor quality and the reason why they litter the Hwy. Frame, Suspension, Insulation, Side Wall Construction and Electrical come first.

 

I agree.. but HOW do you find that information. ?????
with 2 major frame manufacturers... and each body makers requesting there own specification for a frame.

<< Original Poster >> if you have time,,,, read this long post/thread on this forum

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...right-now.html

this is how a factory treats a new 70K trailer owner... over 8 months...
good thing the dealer let them use the trade-in trailer all them months.
p.s. I have never met this owner or ever owned a Montana trailer.

Lucky for me.. I was going to place an order on a Montana 380... then found that thread.
.

.

 

Personal preferences. There are very few Trailers that will withstand the Northern Territories. Calista & Bigfoot are a couple.
I own an Arctic Fox Silver Fox Travel Trailer model 26x.

 

Crap shoot, period. If it doesn't fall apart you will applaud your brilliance in choosing. If it falls apart, you will blame everyone else. A good dealer can make a huge difference. Frames problems are rare compared to box construction, in my experience.

My two cents,

Steve

 

YEP,

my life.. I would have been that guy with the montana... 1 out of 100,000.. would be mine.. a big bank note an NO new trailer to use.
last I heard.. he did not get a longer warranty.. between dealer and factory it was out of service for 10 months. with a 12 months warranty..

after reading and following that thread..
I choose to keep my 12 year old trailer. it fits my needs.. and wife does like the kitchen with its front window.
and its has no bank note.

and I understand thousands get a good unit.. with little warranty issues...

side note, I was an auto mechanic.(retired). handled warranty work for 40 years.. never seen anything like RV factory issues. any BRAND...of RV. well except the High End brands...way out of my pay grade.

 

Alright... I can now be a little more forthcoming. AS I said in the beginning there are reasons for the particular questions. It is mainly due to my current experience.

Last weekend a few of my friends noticed an issue with my tongue on the trailer. They could have swear the tongue had an issue. I said I don't think so I have noticed anything out of the ordinary. When I got it to the campground I noticed it more. My dad came over and said he had noticed something too last year. Well I got a "crash" course in frame design. The trailer I own has C channel 10 ga with a slotted welded plate for extra stiffness. It is not boxed. Several of the welds are failing on the left rail and the right rail has failure unbeknownst to me.

When I got the trailer back to my house on Sunday as my usual parking spot was closed, I called a welder who was recommended by a trailer supply house I deal with. He came over and looked at it and said he could not do anything with it as the tongue would need some straightening and he did not have the proper equipment. He suggested to contact the insurance company. He thought the build of the tongue and frame was suspect factoring the trailer length, size and weight. He said it should have at least been a box frame not a C Channel with welded flat plate. Judging by the local area around the plate it looked like it has been like this for awhile. I don't think the rest is boxed as the bottom is covered with coroplast sheathing. It does go to a C Channel after the tongue.

My wife called the ins co. They were not able to help as the unit would need to be involved in a reportable accident for any service to the policy. So the ins co was no help in this matter. Once I found this out, I spoke with another trailer supply. The person I spoke with said they may be able to do something but of course they need to see the issue to assess the repair. So I am working with them and seeing what they have to say about a repair.


As for the axles. I know you might not thing of it. I have a torsion style Dexter axle on my trailer. 2 of them. This means this sits pretty low to the ground. I really don't see a torsion style in the many RV trailers. I have seen them mainly in cargo style. open and enclosed. My concern is getting a trailer only to find out the axles were under sized for the unit or should have been something else.

This is why right now I am listing the frame build and understanding construction is considered part of the research. Of course we all need a learning experience. I am living mine right now. Had I known 6 years ago when I bought the trailer, the frame would be an a place I would look at. I was fixated on weight and length. Other things that have bothered me. the 2 inch ball on the trailer. I noticed 2 5/16 as the norm on anything that is 2 axles or more.

Layout. Well that is going to have to be a compromise between the wife and I. We have a basic idea in the layout. I think her layout is more fitted to a 5er. I am kinda of leaning away from the 5 er as I think it will be too much for the truck. If I were to go 5 er it would require a 350 DRW. Also I don't have that kind of capital just laying around. I am trying to keep it around 30 feet and just south of 9000 pounds loaded.

I hope this helps everyone a bit and see where I am coming from.

 

Is this an ultra lite model trailer?

Steve

 

GVWR is 6K. Does that qualify for ultralight?