Come Monday, my truck will have AZ plates, which means, no more smog po-po visits. That said, I'm dumping the fuelbowl to the valley up, along with a chip and hpop pump(down the road), after I find that the motor is healthy enough.. Either way, what regulators are y'all run'n and the longevity so far out of it. What to stay away from.... Thanks in advance

 

Well if you're going to Arizona, you should probably check with the locals. Dennis has had quality regulated return and fuel bowl delete kits for years. Used to be ITP diesel, not known as Strictly Diesel. He's around Phoenix I believe.

 

Subscribing....

 

Dude! CA is losing good people at a torrential rate, defend the homeland!

Frankly I'd keep the bowl and add a FRx from Riff Raff or a billet FPR from Bob at Diesel O Rings. The bowl helps separate crap and air from the fuel.

 

Where in Arizona are you going to be? Phoenix and Tucson both have smog and I have to take all my vehicles in every year including my 1987 Mercedes diesel. They look under the hood too although just to see if there is a catalyst decal I think. They did fail me once for having the egr hose off and plugged, nothing a BB wouldn't fix though. At least there is no OBD testing for our diesels, only opacity.

 

I'm staying, brutha, but there's just so many of us left, to fend off the people that have nothing else better to do then cry about how they were cheated tv-ism with the Phelps race against jaws...goodlord.
Have a vacation pad in bullhead. 5yrs registration paid, smogtest free for a whopping 98.00 bucks👍 . Just gotta park my truck backwards on the driveway😈

 

Lol, glad to hear it! AZ registration is a nice escape from CA emissions, enjoy your mod freedom. I'd look at whoever is selling a good full regulated return system rather than doing it piecemeal. All the engineering is done. And a T4 setup so you can pick a better turbo.

 

I've praised that t4 to Allah for the last few years, but now, that KC turbo giving me a chubby . Plus, I already gots the bellows. Been eyeballing a DIY 4 head feeder setup, just need the regulated return split off...I'm one to build it first and hope,(wvo system), then how most of it goes, spend more money on what's already on the table...ill never learn, haha. Sometimes, I get ur right

 

Have had ITP Diesel's (Strictly Diesel) Regulated return with stock fuel bowl on for 11 years on our F-250 and 3 years on the Excursion. It's a nice setup.

I'm keeping the fuel bowl for the heater & filtration.

 

Thinking about my options, has anyone measured how much fuel is RETURNED in a given time frame? Was kicking around the idea, if I had a ballpark #, then instead of an actual FPR, I can use an orifice..
https://www.mcmaster.com/#orifices/=192d2jm

 

Amount returned will vary based on load( how much fuel is injected) don't think a orifice would work for this. Though I could be wrong wouldn't be first time( ask my wife).

 

No way!, then all of us wouldn't know what the he!! were talking about 😁..

I think, because I've used one with my wvo system(control return flow), whether its seeing 20psi or 100psi, that opening is only allowing so much through, which in turn, would create a "base" regulator #....either way, I'm gutn the bowl, going with a RR inline cartridge after the pump, so them tubes are getn cut. Think I might "return" down by pump to remove the entire "return" line up at motor/chassis...

 

Fuel pump should be constant volume and the amount returned should be everything the injectors don't need. That amount obviously varies between idle and pulling 20k lbs up a mountain.

An orfice could regulate the pressure of the return, and inversely the pressure at the injectors, but if the volume of flow allows pressure to the injectors to drop too low, then power will suffer. Pressure too high can cause idle to suffer and excess wear on the pump.

There are other options out there for the FPR, many of which involve fuel bowl delete kits.

 

Orifice won't work. You need FPR to adjust the pressure based on demand. The 'orifice' would need to be much bigger with engine off than at WOT where it may need to be closed.

That said, the factory fuel is fine. No Frx or anything. Spend that money on stuff that improves performance. You can dump the factory steel lines and CV's with Veggie Garage 'CV relocate kit' if you want - but don't expect any performance gains.

If you're hell bent on mucking with fuel system, do in-tank mods, add WIX 33972 or Racor PS120, then stock pump, Fuel Lab or Magnafuel FPR (~$130) and either stock filter with FPR plugged or spin-on water-separating primary filter. You can use veggie garage 'engine plumbing kit' to build your own system.

 

Where I have done RR, I put FPR on frame rail to keep engine bay clean.

Also, I would NEVER use rubber hose anywhere on the engine. PTFE-lined SS braided hoses only.

Fwiw, I think Hpx is a waste of time and additional opportunity for leaks. Again, spend time and money on things that improve performance.