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I went through 36 pages in this section just because I was bored and never once thought to look at the stickys lol
Will order the CPS through that guy. Thanks!
Well then you should know we need pics or it didn't happen!!
Just ordered a CPS from Riffraff. Now searching for a 6.0 transmission cooler kit. Been learning at the same time. 26 vs 31 row, there's dorman mishimoto ford brands. I read the write up which it seems extremely easy especially since I'm pretty mechanically inclined. But, I'm not sure I'll have time to diy it before the texas trip. Might have to actually pay someone to work on my vehicle
What year 8lug super duty wheels fit without requiring spacers? I found a few sets of 18" f250 wheels with new tires for under $1000.
Also, the intake airbox is broken so I might get a replacement or aftermarket, still researching.
Hoping to find a windshield this weekend. There are a lot of shops around here that have superduties being parted out. I'll miss this about southern California.
Anyone running Mishimoto MMTC-F2D-99SL? Entire transcooler kit for 7.3. Its not a 6.0 cooler but its 37 rows and looks exactly like the MMTC-F2D-03SL that is for the 6.0.
26 vs 31 row, there's dorman mishimoto ford brands.
The 26 row actually superseded the 31 row, and it's cheaper than the 31 row, just FYI.
The Dorman is cheapest and the quality is fine as a lot of us are running with the Dorman, including myself. I actually have both coolers. Ford OEM on the Ex and Dorman on my F250.
What year 8lug super duty wheels fit without requiring spacers?
The Read First Excursion Tech Folder sticky thread is your friend! Check out that resource, it has the link for that info for you in the wheel and tire section.
Also, the intake airbox is broken so I might get a replacement or aftermarket, still researching.
Very nice looking truck. As Stew mentioned, Dorman trans cooler here, works great max temps unloaded in Tx is just below 150. One other thing I haven't seen mentioned are the up-pipes, there is potential for an exhaust leak.
There are a couple of common failure points on the 7.3L that can leave you stranded. Several have been mentioned, but I haven't seen anyone talk about the HPOP lines or the passenger side fuel line.
The HPOP lines are made out of rubber, 18 years old, and they're subjected to pressures in excess of 3000 psi. When they let go, they shower everything under the hood in oil and leave you dead on the side of the road. It's not a likely event, but it's a possible one. If you don't replace them before you go, I would plan on it in the next year or so when you have the chance.
The passenger side fuel line has a bracket that keeps it from flopping around about 3/4 of the way back on the valley side of the head. The bracket was coated in rubber from the factory and has a tendency to dry out, crack, fall apart, and rub against the line. Sooner or later it suddenly springs a leak and your engine compartment takes a diesel shower this time. You can fit a piece of rubber fuel line or something similar around the line where it's held by the bracket. I used a piece of leftover fuel line from the hutch mod (read up on that if you aren't already aware of the issues with the factory fuel system).
Neither one of these things are particularly likely to strike you when you're moving across the country... but if your luck is like mine you will want to minimize the chances of problems.
A couple more things:
- make sure to replace your fuel filter. It shouldn't be black at all. If it is, you probably have leaking o-rings.
- check the coolant and make sure it doesn't smell like diesel. If you're getting any diesel in the coolant you have an injector cup that's leaking.
There are a couple of common failure points on the 7.3L that can leave you stranded. Several have been mentioned, but I haven't seen anyone talk about the HPOP lines
I just had to have Clay at Riffraff overnight me a passenger side HPOP line because the one in my daughters truck blew out a few days ago, and she's leaving on a vacation today.
UPS had a problem with a plane so it didn't get delivered until this morning, and I put it on for her a couple hours ago, only to find out the oil shower must have did a number on the alternator because it just died.
Thankfully it takes all of 5 minutes to remove the alternator, and the Irish parts store has a lifetime warrantee, so I swapped that out for her too, just now.
I replaced the HPOP lines on my F250 this year too, as preventive maintenance. Good tip.
My overhead display stopped working. Found a write up on it about something coming loose and needing to be soldered back. Think I'm going to tackle that this weekend.
Took the overhead console display out and apart and found some resistors trying to fly away. I soldered them back in and reinstalled it. Everything works now.
I discovered my overhead lights didn't work either. And one button wasn't working. While the console was out I fixed the button and saw that bulbs were missing. I attached a pic, I feel like something other than bulbs is missing as well. Any ideas or am I crazy?
You are missing the socket the bulb goes into. That socket has contacts that matches up with the copper part of that ring in your photo that conducts current to the bulbs. That copper ring tends to rip if you're not careful when removing the socket.
You are missing the socket the bulb goes into. That socket has contacts that matches up with the copper part of that ring in your photo that conducts current to the bulbs. That copper ring tends to rip if you're not careful when removing the socket.
You will be about an hour from me, and 45 mins from the Gold Mine. Hollar if you need something, and the Gold Mine has several 99-04 4x4 front axles/w manual transfer case/4R100 and manual 4x4 shifter should you decide to convert to 4x4. They also have 10 sets of 05+ full axle sets if you want to go 4x4 AND have all the benefits of the newer axles...no spacers ($600), bigger brakes, keep your current 2WD turn radius, heavier duty 4x4 hubs, Dana 60 up front, better steering gear box, etc.
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