Another vapor lock thread
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 48
From: Great American SouthWest
Ford put the same carb (2100/2150) on the 351m and the 400...and a lot of other engines. It just needs to be calibrated correctly..
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
There is a valley pan under the intake, I know because I installed it myself. The intake is an edelbrock performer in case I didn't mention that.
Carb is an autolite 4100 and I believe I have it tuned as well as I can without using a wideband O2 sensor.
I drove it around town today with no issue...
I went ahead and put a new fuel pump on it just because the old one has been on there for roughly 60,000 miles and it's a cheap, easy try.
Carb is an autolite 4100 and I believe I have it tuned as well as I can without using a wideband O2 sensor.
I drove it around town today with no issue...
I went ahead and put a new fuel pump on it just because the old one has been on there for roughly 60,000 miles and it's a cheap, easy try.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 48
From: Great American SouthWest
There is a valley pan under the intake, I know because I installed it myself. The intake is an edelbrock performer in case I didn't mention that.
Carb is an autolite 4100 and I believe I have it tuned as well as I can without using a wideband O2 sensor.
I drove it around town today with no issue...
I went ahead and put a new fuel pump on it just because the old one has been on there for roughly 60,000 miles and it's a cheap, easy try.
Carb is an autolite 4100 and I believe I have it tuned as well as I can without using a wideband O2 sensor.
I drove it around town today with no issue...
I went ahead and put a new fuel pump on it just because the old one has been on there for roughly 60,000 miles and it's a cheap, easy try.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
What application is the 4100 off of? Ideally you will need the booster assy's from a 4100 off a 390 or 428 to really be able to tune it in properly provided it is a 1.12 venturi (600cfm) carb. If it is the rare 1.19 venturi (670 cfm) 4100 from a 383 Merc hi torque it should be good to go on a built 400.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
The carbs maybe the same design/family but that is it each is calibrated for the intended application the booster/emulsion tube assembly's are different between applications primarily in the jetting for the emulsion tubes. Those jets are not changeable in the 4100 Series and 2100 series carbs. . The 2100 was never used on the 351M , the 351M was only ever fitted with the emissions 2150 carb.
What application is the 4100 off of? Ideally you will need the booster assy's from a 4100 off a 390 or 428 to really be able to tune it in properly provided it is a 1.12 venturi (600cfm) carb. If it is the rare 1.19 venturi (670 cfm) 4100 from a 383 Merc hi torque it should be good to go on a built 400.
What application is the 4100 off of? Ideally you will need the booster assy's from a 4100 off a 390 or 428 to really be able to tune it in properly provided it is a 1.12 venturi (600cfm) carb. If it is the rare 1.19 venturi (670 cfm) 4100 from a 383 Merc hi torque it should be good to go on a built 400.
The numbers off of the 4100 indicated it was originally on a 1961 ford full size car with a 390. The 400 is a mostly stock rebuild with the exception of a custom cut cam from cam research corp. It runs very smooth with no hesitation.
Papabear, I did not block off the crossover as I never had any problems before.
So far I haven't had any more issues but I will admit that I get pretty nervous during extended stays at a stop light.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
From memory, you upgraded from 351 to 400. The increase of 50 cu in will make more heat. More power and heat running, more heat at hot soak and more heat at idle.
It may be time to consider a rear mounted electric pump for a more robust fuel system. The fuel pump itself does not have to be super fancy. A Mr Gasket mini pump or similar will get the job done for a near stock engine. A Carter electric would be a step up.
Long story short, my truck had similar problems after I fixed the basic fuel system (tank, lines, pickup screen, filters ect.). An electric pump fixed it.
It may be time to consider a rear mounted electric pump for a more robust fuel system. The fuel pump itself does not have to be super fancy. A Mr Gasket mini pump or similar will get the job done for a near stock engine. A Carter electric would be a step up.
Long story short, my truck had similar problems after I fixed the basic fuel system (tank, lines, pickup screen, filters ect.). An electric pump fixed it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
From memory, you upgraded from 351 to 400. The increase of 50 cu in will make more heat. More power and heat running, more heat at hot soak and more heat at idle.
It may be time to consider a rear mounted electric pump for a more robust fuel system. The fuel pump itself does not have to be super fancy. A Mr Gasket mini pump or similar will get the job done for a near stock engine. A Carter electric would be a step up.
Long story short, my truck had similar problems after I fixed the basic fuel system (tank, lines, pickup screen, filters ect.). An electric pump fixed it.
It may be time to consider a rear mounted electric pump for a more robust fuel system. The fuel pump itself does not have to be super fancy. A Mr Gasket mini pump or similar will get the job done for a near stock engine. A Carter electric would be a step up.
Long story short, my truck had similar problems after I fixed the basic fuel system (tank, lines, pickup screen, filters ect.). An electric pump fixed it.
The stock one if a clutch may have a weak clutch not uncommon for them to need higher temps to engage once they get some age on them, it may just not be engaging soon enough leading to higher than normal under-hood temps.
An electric fan can do the same thing elevating under hoods especially if it is not wired to come on when the AC (if equipped) is on, with an electric fan if the AC is on then the fan has to be on.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 48
From: Great American SouthWest
Good point on the fan clutch. My 78 F150 was running perfectly fine, and reasonably cool, but the AC condensor was freezing up. The AC guy suggested a "super heavy duty" fan clutch. Got a clutch for a super cooling radiator and no more problems.
Also, I have a 7 blade OEM fan and the correct shroud
Also, I have a 7 blade OEM fan and the correct shroud
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
Truck has the correct fan shroud, 7 blade fan, and a fan clutch that is roughly a year old. It seems to work well enough but then again maybe it isn't, we all know about the "quality" parts we get these days......
I wonder if the engine isn't broken completely in yet and the tighter tolerances are creating more heat as well? Just a thought.
I have a 192* thermostat in there which has worked fine the last few summers. My infrared temp gun says the top of the radiator is around 200-210 degrees however it has been acting up lately so I don't know if I can trust it.
If it means anything the dash gauge reads the same way in the same range as it did with the old engine.
I wonder if the engine isn't broken completely in yet and the tighter tolerances are creating more heat as well? Just a thought.
I have a 192* thermostat in there which has worked fine the last few summers. My infrared temp gun says the top of the radiator is around 200-210 degrees however it has been acting up lately so I don't know if I can trust it.
If it means anything the dash gauge reads the same way in the same range as it did with the old engine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Truck has the correct fan shroud, 7 blade fan, and a fan clutch that is roughly a year old. It seems to work well enough but then again maybe it isn't, we all know about the "quality" parts we get these days......
I wonder if the engine isn't broken completely in yet and the tighter tolerances are creating more heat as well? Just a thought.
I have a 192* thermostat in there which has worked fine the last few summers. My infrared temp gun says the top of the radiator is around 200-210 degrees however it has been acting up lately so I don't know if I can trust it.
If it means anything the dash gauge reads the same way in the same range as it did with the old engine.
I wonder if the engine isn't broken completely in yet and the tighter tolerances are creating more heat as well? Just a thought.
I have a 192* thermostat in there which has worked fine the last few summers. My infrared temp gun says the top of the radiator is around 200-210 degrees however it has been acting up lately so I don't know if I can trust it.
If it means anything the dash gauge reads the same way in the same range as it did with the old engine.
210 at the rad tank is too hot even with a 192 stat I think it would not hurt to look at the radiator as a possible culprit. And the dash gauge is not a reliable source to tell if you are a few degrees warmer than normal, it does not take much of a rise in engine temp to induce vapour lock in some set ups..
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
210 at the rad tank is too hot even with a 192 stat I think it would not hurt to look at the radiator as a possible culprit. And the dash gauge is not a reliable source to tell if you are a few degrees warmer than normal, it does not take much of a rise in engine temp to induce vapour lock in some set ups..
It kept giving me error messages and tried to tell me the thermostat housing was 340 degrees....
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
Truck stalled on my this morning while waiting for a train to move.
Oddly enough it restarted immediately and didn't give me any trouble.
I wonder if it is the same problem or a different one...
Oddly enough it restarted immediately and didn't give me any trouble.
I wonder if it is the same problem or a different one...
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 350
Likes: 44
From: North central TX
I forgot to add that this new engine is bored .060 over which is likely the reason for the extra heat. Why I didn't mention that first thing I don't know.
Would it be worth the trouble to swap in a super cooling radiator from a parts truck or should I just get an aluminum radiator? And if it's the latter does anyone have any recommendations?
Would it be worth the trouble to swap in a super cooling radiator from a parts truck or should I just get an aluminum radiator? And if it's the latter does anyone have any recommendations?