1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

226 Rebuild Advice

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  #31  
Old 08-05-2017, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by acl9865
Just plastigage'd the main bearings and here are my results:

B1 (flywheel side)
B4 (Crank pulley side)

B1: 0.015"
B2: 0.04"
B3: 0.03"
B4: 0.04"

Everything looks clean but might have lost a page of my shop manual to oil spillage. Are these within or out of tolerance? If it matters this was rebuilt to specs shown in above picture.

Alex
Not sure if you're reading it right because those are way too loose. I think you left out a zero, in which case B1 is too tight, but the others look good to me if you add that errant zero.
 
  #32  
Old 08-05-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man
Not sure if you're reading it right because those are way too loose. I think you left out a zero, in which case B1 is too tight, but the others look good to me if you add that errant zero.

Most definitely left out a zero, lack of sleep is getting to me!

B1 (flywheel side)
B4 (Crank pulley side)

B1: 0.0015"
B2: 0.004"
B3: 0.003"
B4: 0.004"

I'd bet B1 is somewhere between 0.0015" and 0.002".
 
  #33  
Old 08-05-2017, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by acl9865
Most definitely left out a zero, lack of sleep is getting to me!

B1 (flywheel side)
B4 (Crank pulley side)

B1: 0.0015"
B2: 0.004"
B3: 0.003"
B4: 0.004"

I'd bet B1 is somewhere between 0.0015" and 0.002".
That's much better. I still think B1 is too tight, but if you think it's .002+ then it's ok. Gotta give that oil a place to stratify.
 
  #34  
Old 08-05-2017, 07:54 PM
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Thanks Mixer! I'll remeasure #1 tomorrow. Want to calibrate this torque wrench first.


As she sits now after 7 hours of wire wheeling. I was covered head to toe in what used to be .75" thick sludge. May not look clean but 4 coats of degreaser and one tortured angle grinder later the majority is bare metal.

Yes I know the valve cover is on upside down. I just threw them on the keep debris from filling the valve chamber.


 
  #35  
Old 08-05-2017, 10:04 PM
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That's going to shine like new!
 
  #36  
Old 08-06-2017, 07:07 AM
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Yes, that mill will look like new with some paint on it!
 
  #37  
Old 08-06-2017, 09:32 AM
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How would you best deal with this? I was wire wheeling and noticed I kept digging out orange putty, realized it was pure rust paste pouring out. Spent an hour with the screwdriver digging out as much rust gunk as I could before sealing that freeze plug and filling the block with Evaporust. When I get my cooling system built I'm going to run it on Evaporust for the first week to clean all of this out.

Having difficulty getting this plug out though. Any suggestions?


 
  #38  
Old 08-06-2017, 10:20 AM
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It's not threaded, is it? Try a pry bar or slide hammer IF it's not threaded.
 
  #39  
Old 08-06-2017, 11:47 AM
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Remove all freeze plugs and get as much of that rust crud out as possible. Personally, I would not attempt to run the engine into a cooling system with all that crud in there. It will most likely stop up any radiator and heater core.
 
  #40  
Old 08-06-2017, 01:41 PM
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Even after you get all that gunk and rust removed and rinsed out, I strongly recommend a coolant filter to save your coolant pump shaft and seal.
 
  #41  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:01 PM
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Ray and Mixer:

Popped off both of the lower freeze plugs and scrapped rust out for half an hour. Hooked up the hose to one of them and let rusty water pour out of the other until it started coming out clean-ish.

Will definitely research a coolant filter now, thanks.
 
  #42  
Old 08-06-2017, 05:15 PM
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5 coats of engine cleaner with a wash and wire wheel in between each one.

Probably should have waited until it was just a litttttle cleaner but I decided to pull the trigger instead. 3 coats of ceramic Ford Red. I'll be going over some of the components in black tomorrow and replacing some of the parts, hence my lack of taping off.


 
  #43  
Old 08-06-2017, 07:18 PM
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Pull those two top plugs and poke around in between those cylinders. If the lower freeze plugs were rusted, the tops will be rusted too. No time easier than now.
 
  #44  
Old 08-06-2017, 09:02 PM
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Yeah, what Ray said. And there is still a lot of casting sand that will leach out over time too since these castings aren't sealed.
 
  #45  
Old 08-07-2017, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
Pull those two top plugs and poke around in between those cylinders. If the lower freeze plugs were rusted, the tops will be rusted too. No time easier than now.
and down from the deck, thru the water jacket holes. A sharpened piece of 1/8 steel rod works well. The rear bottom is where a lot of crap collects.
 


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