Getting rear main cap off.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
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Getting rear main cap off.
I can't get the stupid thing off! I have taken out the two bolts. What am I missing? Shouldn't it just come out? I've tried just about everything I can without damaging something important and at this point figure I'm missing something simple. The chilton's book is f'n useless.
Please help! I'm going to go postal on it in a minute.
Please help! I'm going to go postal on it in a minute.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 435
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From: Central Oregon
Getting rear main cap off.
Just stay calm and get a pry bar that fits into the bolt holes. If you'll just keep working it back and forth in both directions, stepping back and forth from hole to hole, it will loosen up and crawl out very slowly. The caps are intended to be an interference fit into the block, so it's a "good thing" that yours is nice and snug like that! They do leave you talking to yourself tho. Good Luck, Steve
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Freshman User
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Getting rear main cap off.
Thanks for the reply! I will give that a shot tomorrow. I gave up tonight, packed everything up, and took the motorcycle out for a romp instead.
*sigh* if I didn't love this stuff so much I'd shoot all of my cars and ride a skateboard the rest of my life...
*sigh* if I didn't love this stuff so much I'd shoot all of my cars and ride a skateboard the rest of my life...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
Getting rear main cap off.
If you don't have a pry bar, the cap bolts can be inserted partially, both at the same time, to rock the cap back and forth. They can be 'tensioned' by atteempting to spread the bolts apart, so that you can move the cap downward while doing the rocking thing... tom
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dudley, GA
Getting rear main cap off.
If I remember correctly, doesn't the rear main cap have holes for the oil pan screws? If it's what I'm thinking, I partially screwed one in and was able to pry up on the oil pan screw and "lift" out the cap.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Getting rear main cap off.
Its also held in by those two pesky rubber seals and pins that slide down the side of the cap, there can be a lot of friction if the rubber has hardened. You can use two of the bolts, put them onto the holes and squeeze them together with your hand. Work them front to back, and side to side....you will get it out...then take your bike for another ride( its all the excuse I need)...d44hd
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Getting rear main cap off.
Man I have tried the "bolt pry" thing for a fair amount of time now... And it will not freakin budge!! GRRR.
I'm trying to think of ways to get creative on this one, there isn't much room to work and the oil dripping on my face is kinda a turnoff... :-/
I'm trying to think of ways to get creative on this one, there isn't much room to work and the oil dripping on my face is kinda a turnoff... :-/
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Getting rear main cap off.
Ok, GOT IT! For the record, a 12" 3/8 ratchet extension is exactly the right size to get into the bolt holes and still have enough room to pry it off. Tried that and had it off in 30 seconds flat.
However I have conflicting instructions on how to install the new seal and could use some guidance:
Chiltons book says, on the side seals to install after the cap and do not clip ends. FelPro instructions say install with the cap and trim ends after so they're flush. So which do I do?
Also what should I use as a cap-to-block sealer? The Felpro stuff mentions "pro line set and seal anaerobic sealer", however I'm wondering if a very thin layer of red RTV will do the job just the same. ???
Thanks
However I have conflicting instructions on how to install the new seal and could use some guidance:
Chiltons book says, on the side seals to install after the cap and do not clip ends. FelPro instructions say install with the cap and trim ends after so they're flush. So which do I do?
Also what should I use as a cap-to-block sealer? The Felpro stuff mentions "pro line set and seal anaerobic sealer", however I'm wondering if a very thin layer of red RTV will do the job just the same. ???
Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 193
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From: BC, Canada
Getting rear main cap off.
Go with Fel Pro's instructions for the installation. They made they seal, they know what they're talking about.
I found with rear main seals, stick to the recommended installation instructions to the letter for the best results. They are a huge pain in the butt, and if you aren't extremely precise they start leaking immediately.
I found with rear main seals, stick to the recommended installation instructions to the letter for the best results. They are a huge pain in the butt, and if you aren't extremely precise they start leaking immediately.
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Getting rear main cap off.
Ok, I can't get about 1/2" of one of the pins to go in. And that was after drilling a small divot in the top of a metal rod and using it as a driver tool. It's just beding to the side... Anyone see any issues if I just cut that little bit off and make sure it's flush?
I wouldn't think it would leak with that little bit missing, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I wouldn't think it would leak with that little bit missing, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Getting rear main cap off.
I don't know 'exactly' what your seals look like, as I dealt with the old stuff. Usta was that I would measure the length of the side seals, and know thus about how much would protrude from the bottom when installed correctly. Used to also pre-load the position of the side seals in the 'up' position, figuring that they would slide down the side of the cap as the cap was pulled into place. From what I understand, the current(?) seal set has metal pins that are driven up into the side seals after the whole shebang is in place, but that would not stop you from sliding the side seals up past the part-line and letting them ooze back down into proper position as the cap moves up... If it hangs down too much, it means it is not up high enough to be touching the block side of the part-line. tom
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
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From: Dudley, GA
Getting rear main cap off.
OK before you chew up the seal, remove the pins and give them a slight bend at the ends and file it smooth so it won't grab the seal on the way in. The slight bend should be installed so it curves tward the cap. This will keep it from chewing up the seal on the way down. As a added measure I added a little sealent to the sides and base of the cap, just a slight amount, to insure a leak free seal. Give it a squirt of oil before you drive it in. I had no leaks when I did this. PLace the seal and pin in place without the cap so you can see about how much you will have left over and need to trim. Take your time it will go in.
P.S. keep in mind I the pin should have the slight curve on the side where it butts up against the cap or block, I don't remember what side it ran down on
P.S. keep in mind I the pin should have the slight curve on the side where it butts up against the cap or block, I don't remember what side it ran down on
Last edited by 71_4x4_390; Sep 9, 2003 at 09:12 AM.
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Getting rear main cap off.
Ok guys thanks for the input. I'll mess with it some more tonight.
I did soak the side seals and pins in oil before installing to ensure lubrication, and the side seals were at the top (against the block), this I know.
Interesting to note that the old side seals had no pins installed! That can't be right, can it?
I did soak the side seals and pins in oil before installing to ensure lubrication, and the side seals were at the top (against the block), this I know.
Interesting to note that the old side seals had no pins installed! That can't be right, can it?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
Getting rear main cap off.
The old (like me) side seals were made of what looked like pressed-togther fibers, and were longer than the cap, so they protruded down into the gasquet. I trimmed them, but don't remember Motors, Chiltons, or the Shop manual giving any instructions beyond 'install seal and cap assembly'. The material was stiff, but bendable. Kinda like wood, but not any wood from this Earth. Friction with the sided of the block and the grooves in the cap kept them in place. What a mess to install. Rope seals that had to be squished in place, trimmed to fit, and then the two side pieces. It seems it was almost an art to get them leak-free. tom