Overheating
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
Well it hits 210 then climbs past that and goes to 250. That's when I stop and let the motor cool down. Which can take a second. I believe the water pump is correct. I replaced it with the same one and used the 1990 model town car that I got the motor out of to order the pump from the auto parts store. I ordered a metal radiator hose last night. It's an aftermarket champion aluminum radiator 3 row. Dimensions for the core are 16 1/4x24 and overall
20 3/4x 25 1/4
20 3/4x 25 1/4
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 228
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque
Do you have a overflow bottle on it. you should to keep the cooling system full and you can track coolant loss.
if the cooling fan is running when going down the road it can be a air block to airflow thru the condenser and radiator.
don't go down on thermostat temp. keep the 195 in it it gives more time for the water in the radiator to cool.
if you need put a washer with like a 5/8" hole in it to find if there is a prob with the thermostat or water flow.
if the cooling fan is running when going down the road it can be a air block to airflow thru the condenser and radiator.
don't go down on thermostat temp. keep the 195 in it it gives more time for the water in the radiator to cool.
if you need put a washer with like a 5/8" hole in it to find if there is a prob with the thermostat or water flow.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
I Do not have a coolant overflow. Checked the radiator several times. And there's no loss so far. I get that it's more accurate with the overflow bottle though. The thermostat has already been changed so I'll leave it in until I get this problem figured out. Where would the washer go?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
I haven't gotten it to overheat in the driveway but I didn't have the engine speed that high either. After driving home today I'll leave it running in the driveway with engine speed up higher and see if I can get it to happen
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
i work at a shop, we have older techs i had two of them look at it and they believe i need a pusher fan on the front condenser and that at hwy speeds the air isnt being pushed through the condenser and radiator its escaping around it and over into the engine bay area
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Make sure the condenser isn't pushed up right against the radiator. There should be a half-inch gap or so. If you have a Taurus fan pulling, you should be fine as far as air flow goes.
What I would recommend doing, is getting stiff pieces of plastic (like say big truck mudflaps), and building a duct the area between the radiator and grille. The idea is you want to force air entering the grille to go into the radiator and condenser stack.
What I would recommend doing, is getting stiff pieces of plastic (like say big truck mudflaps), and building a duct the area between the radiator and grille. The idea is you want to force air entering the grille to go into the radiator and condenser stack.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
the condenser has about a 1/2"-3/4" gap in between the radiator and condenser. ill go by home depot tonight to get some thick plastics and ill rivet them in place to help with air flow direction. itll be a day or two before the radiator hose comes in. ill report back as i work through this. thanks for the help from everyone
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 228
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque
the washer would go in place of the thermostat. its a option to eliminate the thermostat but still control the coolant flow.
you could also add a air dam under the front. lots of cars have them. helps create a low pressure area to pull air through the radiator. sealing the radiator would help too like in the other post.
you could also add a air dam under the front. lots of cars have them. helps create a low pressure area to pull air through the radiator. sealing the radiator would help too like in the other post.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,316
From: Central Mississippi
I run a complete Taurus fan & shroud assembly inside my original shroud since the Taurus shroud doesn't cover near the entire area of the radiator face.
Do you have it set to run in the high speed position when the AC kicks on?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 17
From: Central Indiana
Just my $0.02 USD worth
when I was a kid, my father had a '70 F100 with a 302/C4 in it. He had a Monkey Wards A/C put in and it never overheated. Even with an 8' Tiltin Hilton camper on it.
I'm suspecting the lack of a spring(s) in your lower hose, coupled with that 180 t-stat is the problem. Your radiator could be clogged to some degree, too. When the radiator needs to flow at its maximum, the pump is putting a pretty high suction on that lower hose. Without a spring(s),the hose collapses, causing a blockage and lack of flow, hence overheating.
I see you're replacing the radiator so that is a good thing. Do the t-stat at the same time and test it in a pan of hot water with a thermometer before installing it. I used to use Stant t-stats but I hear they have quality issues. Maybe somebody will chime in about a better choice in t-stats. Make sure you use a metal lower hose or get some new hoses with springs in them.
I'm suspecting the lack of a spring(s) in your lower hose, coupled with that 180 t-stat is the problem. Your radiator could be clogged to some degree, too. When the radiator needs to flow at its maximum, the pump is putting a pretty high suction on that lower hose. Without a spring(s),the hose collapses, causing a blockage and lack of flow, hence overheating.
I see you're replacing the radiator so that is a good thing. Do the t-stat at the same time and test it in a pan of hot water with a thermometer before installing it. I used to use Stant t-stats but I hear they have quality issues. Maybe somebody will chime in about a better choice in t-stats. Make sure you use a metal lower hose or get some new hoses with springs in them.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
I think the general consensus on here is that a motorcraft stat is the only way to go. I have had dramas myself with stant tstats and now only use motorcraft.
Id give the spring a go as well, fairly cheap and easy to try.
Id give the spring a go as well, fairly cheap and easy to try.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
With the new metal lower radiator hose on it started to overheat on the highway. The ac wasn't on this time. I pulled over and neither the top radiator hose is collapsed. Do you think this can be a head issue or a water pump issue?
Carpenter Local 745
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 11
From: on da beach
Have a leak down test done to check for cylinder head damage.
Are you using the exact same stock configuration of the accessory drive set up as the 90
Towncar?
Make sure that your are driving the water pump in the correct rotation for an 1990 EFI
engine.
Double check the pump. The parts guy could have given you the wrong rotation pump.
Are you using the exact same stock configuration of the accessory drive set up as the 90
Towncar?
Make sure that your are driving the water pump in the correct rotation for an 1990 EFI
engine.
Double check the pump. The parts guy could have given you the wrong rotation pump.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
it has two belts, the one that drives the water pump and alternator (driver side) and the one passenger side which is a/c compressor, smog pump, and the idler pulley. i noticed that the upper radiator hose has lots of pressure, is that suppose to happen?