I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it.
I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving.

What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC


Does anyone have any suggestions what else I need to check?

Thanks,
Alek

 

Welcome to FTE.

I see you don't have any replies, so I'll see if I can get things started.

You've been busy on this puppy. Most of the things you've done fall within normal scheduled maintenance replacement items, but don't replace any more things unless they test bad, or you have trouble codes, or trouble shooting results that suggest they are bad, or at least highly suspect.

Scan the vehicle for trouble code clues & post All trouble code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

All that said, with the engine shaking as bad as you report, if the CEL is blinking it means you have a serious misfire on that cylinder & all the unburned fuel is being dumped into the cat converter & that can cause it to over heat, melt down internally & that can restrict the exhaust, causing excessive exhaust back pressure & that can cause the engine to over heat, SO that misfire needs to be put right without delay. I'd not drive it this way, until it's fixed.

Is the engine making any noise around that cylinder? Does the fuel injector for that cylinder make a clicking sound to indicate it's working, or does the sound go missing, in time with the engine roughness?

Have you performed a compression test on that cylinder?

Some thought for pondering, let us know what you find.

 

Thank you for your reply.
I'll check and see if the Injector is firing or not. Btw, is 175K too much for Injectors? I had a Camry that had over 230K with original injectors never had issues

I checked all Spark Plugs this weekend and they look all the same, none of them seem to be "gunked up" or looks any different.

I bought a tool to test the compression, but it wont fit because the threads are not long enough to reach..ugh..I have to figure something out..

I have the following codes: P1401, P0301, P0305

Its hard to tell is there is any noise around the cylinder(s), because the fan is making hell of a noise. But from what I observed, I would carefully say No noise around the affected cylinder(s).

Thanks,
Alek

 

Ok, good idea to post up the trouble code Numbers & feedback. Will be interesting to hear what the compression test shows when you get the gauge to fit.

If you have, or can borrow or come by a scan tool that'll perform a cylinder balance test, it might be able to shed some light on the diagnosis from the drivers seat, as it can disable each cylinders fuel injector & monitor rpm drop.

To listen for & pinpoint suspect engine noise, use a mechanics stethoscope, or rig one from a long wooden dowel, broom handle, piece of rubber hose, or tubing, or a screwdriver, one end on the suspect, the other to our ear & listen to see if the fuel injector is clicking like the others, or if its click goes missing in time with the misfire, or if you can hear unusual valve noise on that cyl, or if it sounds different than the others.

At 175K miles, a number of things are way past due for scheduled maintenance replacement, like plugs, wires, upstream O2 sensors, air & fuel filters, are some that come to mind.
Seeing as how you have a misfire code for cyls 1 & 5 & they both share the same coil pack secondary winding on our waste spark ignition system, the coil pack belongs on your suspect list.
Did you check #1 & #5 plug wires for proper end to end resistance?

Have you raised the hood after dark & with it at warm idle had a good look around #1 & #5 coil pack, plug wire run & plug wire boot, for an arcs & sparks light show? Look at all the others too. Maybe spritz them all with a spray bottle of water to see if you get a arcs & sparks light show from faulty insulation. The coil pack is known to crack underneath & arc unseen to ground, so maybe raise that puppy & spritz it underneath, especially under the 1/5 coil & see if you get a arcs & sparks light show, if so look for cracks.
Most auto parts stores can bench test the coil pack for output, so if you can't find any arcing, but it's still suspect, call around & find out who can bench test it to confirm it's bad, before replacement.

On the P1401 code DPFE sensor high voltage trouble code, here is a link to check out the EGR system, so scroll through, read & perform the DPFE sensor tests, to determine it's bad before you consider replacing it. Part 1 -How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid, DPFE Sensor

Let us know how your trouble shoot goes.