1954 F250 Build in Iowa
#31
On the engine, any input would be appreciated. I know the 239 that came out of it will require a rebuild. What's it worth to keep it stock? Will I be disappointed that I rebuilt it in 5-10 years if I can't find a part to keep it running? I don't want to send the frame to get powder coated until I know for sure what to do with the engine, just in case the frame needs modified in any way.
I think the only valid reasons to convert to 12V are: you are going to tow heavy loads that really require trailer brakes; you want A/C; you were tempted by the cookies and went to the dark side.
If the 239 is prohibitively expensive to rebuild then look for another Y. Don't forget about the 272 which is a good motor to replace the 239.
I would be more concerned about the rear axle ratio than changing engine types. Your axle is probably geared like a tractor. I'd try to get a 4.11 or 3.73 ratio and limit your cruising to around 60 m.p.h.
#32
[QUOTE=jeff54f250;17315117]
As much as I would like to keep it, the current 239 concerns me due to the availability of parts and cost to rebuild. I've got a quote of almost $3,000 to rebuild it. They said the parts kit is one of the most expensive they have seen. I guess I need to decide how much it is worth putting into the 239 to keep it original. I worry about putting that much money into it, and then having trouble finding other parts to keep it running down the road. I wonder if a 292 Y would be any better long term? I assume that will mount the same and work with the original transmission? [/ QUOTE]
I've been think about your 54 239, whether to get it rebuilt or buying another Yblock. A 54 239 might cost more to rebuild. There are some things that are exclusive to the 54 Yblock. I think when guys say 54 239s cost more to repair, I think they are talking about adding on performance parts. Some stuff, and I'm not sure what, will not interchange with a 54 and a 55/56 engines. But I don't see you building up a Yblock for HP or speed. I had my 54 239 rebuilt in 1979. I put on heads I bought from Dennis here at FTE this spring and my engine is running great. I've never had any problems with the engine. One thing I do know that is different on the 54 from other years is the water pump. When mine went out years ago I had to send it away to get rebuilt.
So I say find out what is wrong with your engine first. Maybe it doesn't need rebuilt. If it does need rebuilt, rebuild it. That way you know what you have. If you buy a 55 or 56 or newer Yblock that is running you don't know the history and it may need rebuilt down the road. How much does it cost to rebuild a newer Yblock?
As much as I would like to keep it, the current 239 concerns me due to the availability of parts and cost to rebuild. I've got a quote of almost $3,000 to rebuild it. They said the parts kit is one of the most expensive they have seen. I guess I need to decide how much it is worth putting into the 239 to keep it original. I worry about putting that much money into it, and then having trouble finding other parts to keep it running down the road. I wonder if a 292 Y would be any better long term? I assume that will mount the same and work with the original transmission? [/ QUOTE]
I've been think about your 54 239, whether to get it rebuilt or buying another Yblock. A 54 239 might cost more to rebuild. There are some things that are exclusive to the 54 Yblock. I think when guys say 54 239s cost more to repair, I think they are talking about adding on performance parts. Some stuff, and I'm not sure what, will not interchange with a 54 and a 55/56 engines. But I don't see you building up a Yblock for HP or speed. I had my 54 239 rebuilt in 1979. I put on heads I bought from Dennis here at FTE this spring and my engine is running great. I've never had any problems with the engine. One thing I do know that is different on the 54 from other years is the water pump. When mine went out years ago I had to send it away to get rebuilt.
So I say find out what is wrong with your engine first. Maybe it doesn't need rebuilt. If it does need rebuilt, rebuild it. That way you know what you have. If you buy a 55 or 56 or newer Yblock that is running you don't know the history and it may need rebuilt down the road. How much does it cost to rebuild a newer Yblock?
#33
Yes you will get quite a collection of parts. It's a good feeling when you start to put it back together and the bags and boxes start to disappear. I do have one bag for unknown bolts/nuts. That kind of concerns me I plan to use the standard N&B. I will probably by the kits for the bed and running boards. As you found out, those are the worst for removal. My truck will continued to be shedded the rest of my life time so rust will never be my problem again
Your buddy was "right on" on the cost of the 239 rebuild. I know it is a tough decision but you are the one that will have to live with it. It depends how you will use your truck. These farm trucks were used hard 10-20 years before they sat. The 30-40 years they have been sitting has probably been harder on them.
You have no emotional ties with the truck, I'd say go for it. Just don't throw anything away before you offer it to us FTE'ers LOL
I'll be keeping an eye on your wiring choices. I still have to do that. I'm sending Stu a PM to see if he can enlighten you on your wheels/tires.
Your buddy was "right on" on the cost of the 239 rebuild. I know it is a tough decision but you are the one that will have to live with it. It depends how you will use your truck. These farm trucks were used hard 10-20 years before they sat. The 30-40 years they have been sitting has probably been harder on them.
You have no emotional ties with the truck, I'd say go for it. Just don't throw anything away before you offer it to us FTE'ers LOL
I'll be keeping an eye on your wiring choices. I still have to do that. I'm sending Stu a PM to see if he can enlighten you on your wheels/tires.
Thanks Dave, and sorry I haven't been following along here. Your wheels are 16" x 6" one piece Ford 7RD 1015B / K-H 31282. In the big picture, I've found no record of any 16" wheel having the widow maker RH-5° rim, only 17" and larger. As long as yours have no rust or other damage they are truly golden. Stu
#34
Your stock truck should be fine for light towing. I have towed a 49 F-2 through Houston with a 55 F-1 powered by a stock 54 239 Y. This worked pretty well except the heavy clutch and slow take off in stop-and-go traffic. I did not feel the need for trailer brakes, just planned my stopping accordingly.
I think the only valid reasons to convert to 12V are: you are going to tow heavy loads that really require trailer brakes; you want A/C; you were tempted by the cookies and went to the dark side.
If the 239 is prohibitively expensive to rebuild then look for another Y. Don't forget about the 272 which is a good motor to replace the 239.
I would be more concerned about the rear axle ratio than changing engine types. Your axle is probably geared like a tractor. I'd try to get a 4.11 or 3.73 ratio and limit your cruising to around 60 m.p.h.
I think the only valid reasons to convert to 12V are: you are going to tow heavy loads that really require trailer brakes; you want A/C; you were tempted by the cookies and went to the dark side.
If the 239 is prohibitively expensive to rebuild then look for another Y. Don't forget about the 272 which is a good motor to replace the 239.
I would be more concerned about the rear axle ratio than changing engine types. Your axle is probably geared like a tractor. I'd try to get a 4.11 or 3.73 ratio and limit your cruising to around 60 m.p.h.
I would say the cookies are looking good, and it takes 12 volts to open lid to the cookie jar. Part of me thinks it would be easier down the road if you want to add a radio, cell phone charger, etc. Maybe it's not worth the hassle though. How easy is it to find 6 volt parts, like the starter, and lights, etc? I haven't really checked into some of those things yet.
[QUOTE=abe;17316640]
As much as I would like to keep it, the current 239 concerns me due to the availability of parts and cost to rebuild. I've got a quote of almost $3,000 to rebuild it. They said the parts kit is one of the most expensive they have seen. I guess I need to decide how much it is worth putting into the 239 to keep it original. I worry about putting that much money into it, and then having trouble finding other parts to keep it running down the road. I wonder if a 292 Y would be any better long term? I assume that will mount the same and work with the original transmission? [/ QUOTE]
I've been think about your 54 239, whether to get it rebuilt or buying another Yblock. A 54 239 might cost more to rebuild. There are some things that are exclusive to the 54 Yblock. I think when guys say 54 239s cost more to repair, I think they are talking about adding on performance parts. Some stuff, and I'm not sure what, will not interchange with a 54 and a 55/56 engines. But I don't see you building up a Yblock for HP or speed. I had my 54 239 rebuilt in 1979. I put on heads I bought from Dennis here at FTE this spring and my engine is running great. I've never had any problems with the engine. One thing I do know that is different on the 54 from other years is the water pump. When mine went out years ago I had to send it away to get rebuilt.
So I say find out what is wrong with your engine first. Maybe it doesn't need rebuilt. If it does need rebuilt, rebuild it. That way you know what you have. If you buy a 55 or 56 or newer Yblock that is running you don't know the history and it may need rebuilt down the road. How much does it cost to rebuild a newer Yblock?
I've been think about your 54 239, whether to get it rebuilt or buying another Yblock. A 54 239 might cost more to rebuild. There are some things that are exclusive to the 54 Yblock. I think when guys say 54 239s cost more to repair, I think they are talking about adding on performance parts. Some stuff, and I'm not sure what, will not interchange with a 54 and a 55/56 engines. But I don't see you building up a Yblock for HP or speed. I had my 54 239 rebuilt in 1979. I put on heads I bought from Dennis here at FTE this spring and my engine is running great. I've never had any problems with the engine. One thing I do know that is different on the 54 from other years is the water pump. When mine went out years ago I had to send it away to get rebuilt.
So I say find out what is wrong with your engine first. Maybe it doesn't need rebuilt. If it does need rebuilt, rebuild it. That way you know what you have. If you buy a 55 or 56 or newer Yblock that is running you don't know the history and it may need rebuilt down the road. How much does it cost to rebuild a newer Yblock?
I really appreciate all of the input so far on the engine. Some of those thoughts have been running through my mind too. I am kind of thinking no matter what engine I get, I should just plan on a rebuild so I know what I have. What I don't know is the cost difference to rebuild a 292 compared to the 239. I should find that out. I did know about the water pump after reading some old forum posts. I'm sure I will have to send mine in if I rebuild it.The amount of power isn't a huge concern to me, so I won't be adding any performance parts.
Will the 272 or 292 fit exactly the same as my 239? Does it matter what year they are?
Changing the gear ratio sounds intriguing. Is there a trick on what I need to look for? Can you keep the same rear end and just swap a gear in it?
As a side note, kind of a funny story that shows how little I know about Y blocks: I bought a 2nd engine stand and went to mount the 239 onto it today, and the little arms aren't long enough to reach the bottom bolt holes! They are about 1 inch too short, so the 239 is still sitting on blocks. The reason I bought a 2nd stand is I've got a 1954 Lincoln 279 mounted to another larger engine stand. Earlier this year just a couple days after buying the truck, I found an ad online for a 1954 292 complete engine and transmission. I didn't know what I was getting into with my 239, so I drove over 6 hours to pick it up. When I got there, they told me it came out of a fire truck (which explained why it was really clean). I found the block casting number and looked it up to see it was a 279. I had already driven that far, through flood waters, detoured around closed highways, so I brought it home. Not realizing at the time that it was a much larger engine and won't fit due to the size of the oil pan and maybe even the width. I also found out it was kind of a rare engine, like the 239. Lesson learned on that trip!
#35
I spent a little time digging into the 239 tonight. Pretty sure an engine shouldn't look like this inside? I can also see a mouse nest in the passenger side exhaust manifold. I am thinking I better cut my losses and just look for a different engine, preferably a fresh rebuild. Is it worth taking the heads off?
What do you guys suggest to look for if I scrap this one? I was leaning towards a 292 (or a 272 if the right one comes along). It's tempting to look for something a little newer like a 289 or 351, but not sure I want to go through the challenges of trying to make one fit. How much trouble is it really? With a 292/272 I could use the original mounts and transmission? Any suggestions on where to look for one?
Bent rod.
See the mouse nest?
What do you guys suggest to look for if I scrap this one? I was leaning towards a 292 (or a 272 if the right one comes along). It's tempting to look for something a little newer like a 289 or 351, but not sure I want to go through the challenges of trying to make one fit. How much trouble is it really? With a 292/272 I could use the original mounts and transmission? Any suggestions on where to look for one?
Bent rod.
See the mouse nest?
#36
Time sure flies! I just realized how long it's been since I last posted. I can now see why a rebuild takes so long. It's been quite a learning experience so far.
Since I decided to replace my junk 239, I lucked into a very nicely rebuilt 292. It was built by a pro that has lots of experience with Y Blocks. I still have a couple things to tweak on it to fit the truck, but it's pretty much ready to go.
I also pulled the cab and every last piece that was bolted to the frame so I could have it powder coated. Wow, there are a lot of parts to take off. It doesn't seem like much until you start taking every little piece off.
I also decided to have the cab blasted and re-painted while it was off. There are a few rust holes that need to be repaired. I figured this was my chance to do it while it was all taken apart. It was kind of a hard choice, whether to leave it original or repaint. In the end, the amount of rust bothered me enough to do it. I'm leaning towards leaving the rest of the truck as-is but that could change as time goes on. The more I work on it the more I think about what else I want to do.
Currently I am working on the steering components and getting those cleaned up, replacing the king pins, tie rod ends, etc.
Newly rebuilt 292!
Cab off, testing the engine fit with radiator. I need a new shroud to fit the 292's water pump. The old 239 had a high mount fan.
Since I decided to replace my junk 239, I lucked into a very nicely rebuilt 292. It was built by a pro that has lots of experience with Y Blocks. I still have a couple things to tweak on it to fit the truck, but it's pretty much ready to go.
I also pulled the cab and every last piece that was bolted to the frame so I could have it powder coated. Wow, there are a lot of parts to take off. It doesn't seem like much until you start taking every little piece off.
I also decided to have the cab blasted and re-painted while it was off. There are a few rust holes that need to be repaired. I figured this was my chance to do it while it was all taken apart. It was kind of a hard choice, whether to leave it original or repaint. In the end, the amount of rust bothered me enough to do it. I'm leaning towards leaving the rest of the truck as-is but that could change as time goes on. The more I work on it the more I think about what else I want to do.
Currently I am working on the steering components and getting those cleaned up, replacing the king pins, tie rod ends, etc.
Newly rebuilt 292!
Cab off, testing the engine fit with radiator. I need a new shroud to fit the 292's water pump. The old 239 had a high mount fan.
#37
Time sure flies! I just realized how long it's been since I last posted. I can now see why a rebuild takes so long. It's been quite a learning experience so far.
Newly rebuilt 292!
Cab off, testing the engine fit with radiator. I need a new shroud to fit the 292's water pump. The old 239 had a high mount fan.
Newly rebuilt 292!
Cab off, testing the engine fit with radiator. I need a new shroud to fit the 292's water pump. The old 239 had a high mount fan.
#38
Abe - It was setup as a car engine, but the rebuilder swapped a truck water pump and timing cover onto it for me. I still need to swap the t-stat housing to the truck one that is straight up. I didn't know they made a high mount fan setup on those engines. I thought those were only in 54 or the bigger trucks? I also had to get different throttle linkage for the carb setup on this engine. We will see if it works when it all goes back together. It's amazing there are so many parts available for these trucks, along with the outstanding knowledge here!
#39
Abe - It was setup as a car engine, but the rebuilder swapped a truck water pump and timing cover onto it for me. I still need to swap the t-stat housing to the truck one that is straight up. I didn't know they made a high mount fan setup on those engines. I thought those were only in 54 or the bigger trucks? I also had to get different throttle linkage for the carb setup on this engine. We will see if it works when it all goes back together. It's amazing there are so many parts available for these trucks, along with the outstanding knowledge here!
#41
Wow! How did I miss this thread.
I'm from Missouri and I'm a Husker, but your truck is way cool. So you can make that three Husker friends.
The 239 (and possibly the Lincoln Y?) where the only high fan mount water pumps. Save that water pump.
I'm glad you stayed with a Y-block they are a cool engine. I love my 239, but it does offer a few more challenges.
Take lots of pictures, then take some more. If you haven't already gotten it, you need the master parts catalog. It's worth it at twice the price. https://www.hipoparts.com/1948-56-fo...ts-catalog-cd/
Your rims are fine. They are actually the original rims with the innie nubs for hub caps. That bolt pattern is used on about every F250 ever made. I got some newer rims for my 55 F250 because my rear were split ring (not widowmaker). Split ring are still serviceable but not desired.
My build thread is in my signature. I'm a novice with mechanic work and I have been able to make a lot of progress with the help of my friends here.
I kept mine 6 volt as well and I don't have any problems. It was cheaper for me to do that. I didn't buy a wiring kit, I just wired everything up based on wiring diagrams. (Which none show the turn signals). I have diagrams of each section if you need them.
Be sure to ask lots of questions. Reading the manual helps too. It's taken me years to break down and do that more often.
After you have taken more pictures than you need, take some more. You will need them at some point in the rebuild.
I'm from Missouri and I'm a Husker, but your truck is way cool. So you can make that three Husker friends.
The 239 (and possibly the Lincoln Y?) where the only high fan mount water pumps. Save that water pump.
I'm glad you stayed with a Y-block they are a cool engine. I love my 239, but it does offer a few more challenges.
Take lots of pictures, then take some more. If you haven't already gotten it, you need the master parts catalog. It's worth it at twice the price. https://www.hipoparts.com/1948-56-fo...ts-catalog-cd/
Your rims are fine. They are actually the original rims with the innie nubs for hub caps. That bolt pattern is used on about every F250 ever made. I got some newer rims for my 55 F250 because my rear were split ring (not widowmaker). Split ring are still serviceable but not desired.
My build thread is in my signature. I'm a novice with mechanic work and I have been able to make a lot of progress with the help of my friends here.
I kept mine 6 volt as well and I don't have any problems. It was cheaper for me to do that. I didn't buy a wiring kit, I just wired everything up based on wiring diagrams. (Which none show the turn signals). I have diagrams of each section if you need them.
Be sure to ask lots of questions. Reading the manual helps too. It's taken me years to break down and do that more often.
After you have taken more pictures than you need, take some more. You will need them at some point in the rebuild.
#42
Wow! How did I miss this thread.
I'm from Missouri and I'm a Husker, but your truck is way cool. So you can make that three Husker friends.
The 239 (and possibly the Lincoln Y?) where the only high fan mount water pumps. Save that water pump.
I'm glad you stayed with a Y-block they are a cool engine. I love my 239, but it does offer a few more challenges.
Take lots of pictures, then take some more. If you haven't already gotten it, you need the master parts catalog. It's worth it at twice the price. https://www.hipoparts.com/1948-56-fo...ts-catalog-cd/
Your rims are fine. They are actually the original rims with the innie nubs for hub caps. That bolt pattern is used on about every F250 ever made. I got some newer rims for my 55 F250 because my rear were split ring (not widowmaker). Split ring are still serviceable but not desired.
My build thread is in my signature. I'm a novice with mechanic work and I have been able to make a lot of progress with the help of my friends here.
I kept mine 6 volt as well and I don't have any problems. It was cheaper for me to do that. I didn't buy a wiring kit, I just wired everything up based on wiring diagrams. (Which none show the turn signals). I have diagrams of each section if you need them.
Be sure to ask lots of questions. Reading the manual helps too. It's taken me years to break down and do that more often.
After you have taken more pictures than you need, take some more. You will need them at some point in the rebuild.
I'm from Missouri and I'm a Husker, but your truck is way cool. So you can make that three Husker friends.
The 239 (and possibly the Lincoln Y?) where the only high fan mount water pumps. Save that water pump.
I'm glad you stayed with a Y-block they are a cool engine. I love my 239, but it does offer a few more challenges.
Take lots of pictures, then take some more. If you haven't already gotten it, you need the master parts catalog. It's worth it at twice the price. https://www.hipoparts.com/1948-56-fo...ts-catalog-cd/
Your rims are fine. They are actually the original rims with the innie nubs for hub caps. That bolt pattern is used on about every F250 ever made. I got some newer rims for my 55 F250 because my rear were split ring (not widowmaker). Split ring are still serviceable but not desired.
My build thread is in my signature. I'm a novice with mechanic work and I have been able to make a lot of progress with the help of my friends here.
I kept mine 6 volt as well and I don't have any problems. It was cheaper for me to do that. I didn't buy a wiring kit, I just wired everything up based on wiring diagrams. (Which none show the turn signals). I have diagrams of each section if you need them.
Be sure to ask lots of questions. Reading the manual helps too. It's taken me years to break down and do that more often.
After you have taken more pictures than you need, take some more. You will need them at some point in the rebuild.
Yeah, I have been taking tons of pics. I'm sure I will wish I had more as I start trying to piece it back together. From what I have seen, the 239 or the Lincoln 279 has the high mount fan. Looks like I can order a fan shroud that has the center of the opening lower to make it compatible with a fan mounted directly to the water pump shaft. I plan on parting out the old 239 once I get further on my truck.
Thanks for the tip on the master parts catalog. I will get one ordered. I'm getting my rims powder painted along with several other parts. They seemed to be in pretty good shape except for some surface rust. Did you just rebuild your original brakes? I've found all of the parts except for the adjuster springs. Any source for those? I really don't want to put the old springs back in with the rest of the parts being new.
I just bought a 1960 Dana 60 (upgraded to 3.73 gears) out of an F250 to replace the old Timken A150 that wasn't worth repairing. I will try to remember to snap a pic of that to post soon. Nothing like project creep!
I see you put in a new steel gas tank. I was thinking about going plastic on mine. I didn't like the looks of the steel ones that are available. Where did you get yours? Thoughts?
#43
Even though I've been slow at posting pics, I am making progress!
Just about ready to get blasted and powder painted.
Back from getting painted! Wow, it looks like new!
It sure is nice working with clean rust free parts.
Thought I better clean the T-98 up too. I replaced the oil seal on the output shaft, but I am leaving the rest, hoping it will work for me. It will get fresh oil in it.
The front axle is just about ready for tires.
I ended up with a master cylinder from a 1975 2WD F250. It's a 1 1/4" bore, just like the factory MC. I am sticking with drum brakes on the front and rear. I bought the bracket kit to use a newer style master cylinder and the clutch adapter kit, both from Mid Fifty.
Just about ready to get blasted and powder painted.
Back from getting painted! Wow, it looks like new!
It sure is nice working with clean rust free parts.
Thought I better clean the T-98 up too. I replaced the oil seal on the output shaft, but I am leaving the rest, hoping it will work for me. It will get fresh oil in it.
The front axle is just about ready for tires.
I ended up with a master cylinder from a 1975 2WD F250. It's a 1 1/4" bore, just like the factory MC. I am sticking with drum brakes on the front and rear. I bought the bracket kit to use a newer style master cylinder and the clutch adapter kit, both from Mid Fifty.
#44
#45
Wow Jeff your making awesome progress! After seeing your dual brake cylinder I wish I would have swapped mine out. Was it difficult and was there any alteration to put it in? I could still do it fairly easy because a still have bare frame. I think you will be happy with the 292. Glad you "lucked" into it. We all need moments like that to keep us going Are you planning to store the 239 you pulled out or are you looking to get rid of it? Not saying I'm interested but a trip across Iowa wouldn't be to bad. Just don't like to see them junked. Any word on you Cab? Can't wait to get mine back. Anyway keep up the good work and keep those pictures coming, Dave