Well, the wood looked good from a distance but it was pretty soft, so I am going to replace it. If it was as solid as it looked I would have kept it. I didn't want to fall through if I stepped up into it! Not looking to build a show truck, but I do want to make it usable and something that will last many years once I finish it.



Abe - Yeah, I probably did it the hard way but it's done now. And yes, that one valve cover was flipped around by the previous owner. Only the one valve cover had a decal. Was the other one supposed to have one as well?






The bed is off!

 

Sounds interesting. I just pulled the engine tonight, but I will check into it since it might be a while until I tear into it.




First time I have pulled an engine. Glad I had all of the front end completely off!

 

I'll add my welcome as well. I'm not as helpful on '54 trucks as others on here but I'll share my opinion anyway...

I advocate keeping the truck 6 volt. It worked when new, it works now. Make sure to get a reproduction wiring harness and you are good to go.

I also advocate keeping the truck a Y block, either the original motor or another dressed out with your intake, water pump, etc.

 

I got my original looking wiring harness from MidFifty. One slight problem I encountered. My harness was a little bit short. I called MidFifty and they assured me that the harness will fit all 8 cylinder 54's. This was 17 years ago. Just this summer I discovered the problem. Most 54s have a junction block where the wires go to and then to the voltage regulator. I have seen pictures of stock 54s with the junction block. The stock 55 I have has no junction block. That is how my 54 is. My 54 was built late in the production year. So at some point late in 54 they changed that. If your 54 has no junction block then order a 55 harness.

 

My 54. Notice how I had to splice the wires because there is no junction block.


Here is my 55 without a junction block like all 55 trucks.

I will try to find a pic of a 54 with the junction block. I'm on my tablet. It might be on my desktop computer.

 

Well I guess you have two Husker fans friends now. Don't worry, Trucks come first

I think your wheels are WM! Hopefully someone else will chime in. I believed the 8 lug is easier to find than the 6 lug that is on my truck though. By the way, you have kicked *** on tearing it apart. Remember to mark all the parts really good. I used Zip lock bags, mark with permanent marker. I have tried to re-use every nut and bolt that I did not have to cut off. I spent a lot of hours at the bench grinder and wire wheel. As far as your engine, you will get a lot of opinions weather to rebuild or not. Let me know when you get to that point and I would be glad to share my experience with you. As you have already found out, FTE guys have no problem giving the best advise. Keep up the good work.

 

For what it is worth here are some pics of stock 54 engines with the junction block:

 

[QUOTE=jeff54f250;17313027]


And I see yours has the junction block.

 

Leaving it 6 volt would definitely be simpler, but I still like the thought of 12 volts being more compatible with everything else on the market today. Decisions, decisions....

As much as I would like to keep it, the current 239 concerns me due to the availability of parts and cost to rebuild. I've got a quote of almost $3,000 to rebuild it. They said the parts kit is one of the most expensive they have seen. I guess I need to decide how much it is worth putting into the 239 to keep it original. I worry about putting that much money into it, and then having trouble finding other parts to keep it running down the road. I wonder if a 292 Y would be any better long term? I assume that will mount the same and work with the original transmission?

What is the best source to look for a 292?

 

Mine definitely has that junction block. I assume your 54 is still 6 volt too? Is that harness long enough for the lights at the back of a long bed?

This is silly, but I worry about me forgetting that it is positive ground when I go to reconnect something. Even sillier, I've also thought about putting a trailer hitch on to pull a small trailer around, which would require 12 volt lights. I'm sure there are other workarounds. There I go making it complicated. I need to get my engine plans figured out before I do too much more.

Thanks for pointing this out!

 

The wiring harness I bought was from the ignition switch, through the firewall and to the engine bay and to the headlights and parking lights. The harness to the rear would be bought separate. I didn't buy that since I just ran wires back to the taillights and turnsignals. So you could make your own as long as you need.

 

Uh, oh! I hope some others can look at the wheels too and confirm if they are WM's. I really tried to look close and it doesn't seem like they are 2 piece, but it is very hard to see in there with them mounted. I wonder if the 8 bolt is a standard pattern?

I had a buddy suggest the ziplock bag trick. I am doing that and writing on piece of card stock what it is and I am sorting them in different totes based on located. I'm getting quite a collection. After dealing with all of the rusted bolts, I don't think I can let myself put a rusted bolt back in when the time comes. I had to break/cut a lot of bolts to get where I am at now. I can certainly appreciate all of the time it took to clean up your bolts after going through that! What are you going to do for replacement bolts for those you had to cut? Will you stick with fine thread zinc? I keep thinking stainless is the way to go, but wow, they are very proud of those!

On the engine, any input would be appreciated. I know the 239 that came out of it will require a rebuild. What's it worth to keep it stock? Will I be disappointed that I rebuilt it in 5-10 years if I can't find a part to keep it running? I don't want to send the frame to get powder coated until I know for sure what to do with the engine, just in case the frame needs modified in any way.

 

Yes you will get quite a collection of parts. It's a good feeling when you start to put it back together and the bags and boxes start to disappear. I do have one bag for unknown bolts/nuts. That kind of concerns me I plan to use the standard N&B. I will probably by the kits for the bed and running boards. As you found out, those are the worst for removal. My truck will continued to be shedded the rest of my life time so rust will never be my problem again

Your buddy was "right on" on the cost of the 239 rebuild. I know it is a tough decision but you are the one that will have to live with it. It depends how you will use your truck. These farm trucks were used hard 10-20 years before they sat. The 30-40 years they have been sitting has probably been harder on them.
You have no emotional ties with the truck, I'd say go for it. Just don't throw anything away before you offer it to us FTE'ers LOL

I'll be keeping an eye on your wiring choices. I still have to do that. I'm sending Stu a PM to see if he can enlighten you on your wheels/tires.

 

Thanks Dave, and sorry I haven't been following along here. Your wheels are 16" x 6" one piece Ford 7RD 1015B / K-H 31282. In the big picture, I've found no record of any 16" wheel having the widow maker RH-5° rim, only 17" and larger. As long as yours have no rust or other damage they are truly golden. Stu

 

Thanks Stu Good news Jeff This kind of help in invaluable! I've only had my addiction for 1 1/2 years (rookie). Others have had it for decades(professionals).