I'm finishing up my rain gutter repair and have decided to use a paint I can apply myself.

Can anyone recommend which Rustoleum topside white would be the closest to the original ford white? They offer Oyster White, Semi-Gloss White, and regular White..

Or should I consider another brand of paint for my Work Van?

Rolled On - Affordable Paintjobs

 

I used some gloss white and it matched good.
I had a 7 year old can and shot a spot that was scratched before I bought my van
I did it about 3-4 years ago and you can't tell the difference

Since you are doing it up top I really doubt anyone will notice

 

Over in the Paint/body section of FTE, they say that if you use Rustoleum for repairs, you have to remove it down to bear metal if you ever repaint the whole van. They say the Rustoleum is oil base. I used it under my passenger door and around the doghouse

 

Thanks Vette. Are you talking about

this rustoleum?

this rustoleum?

Or the

spray can?

spray can?

Iv been considering the marine

topcoat rustoleum

topcoat rustoleum

, which isn't offered in gloss white. But with your review, I might forget the topcoat line even though its more UV resistant.

Figures.. My van has been half *** repainted anyway with who knows what.. But that's good to know annaleigh, and makes me wonder if any other hand paint-able paints are available which could later remain under a professional paint job..

I just joined "Rolled On Forums" , so I better start asking questions..

 

spray can and I just sprayed over the existing

 

how did yours hold up? How long ago?

 

Agreed!
you could probably use light gray and no one would notice.

 

ITs holding up great but it has only been 2 or 3 weeks now..
I think mine will be fine for a good while, we will see..

The problem with Rustoleum, from what I read is that automotive acrylic, painted over top of it, is not compatible with the Rustoleum oil base paint. It can cause blistering or pealing over time. I don’t know if that is true the other way around.. My repair has not turned loose from the paint yet..

My concern is how well the primer will hold up.
I think I posted some pics of this but since photobucket kidnaped the photos and holding them for ransom, I will post them here.

On my year van and I imagine most vans, they use a seem sealer around all seems and where the metal is bent over, and then they paint it...
I noticed a place under the passenger side front door that looked like there might be a little rust under the paint, perhaps due to the door weatherstrip holding water from the weep holes. I scraped a little bit of the seam sealer off and found surface ruse so I scraped more till I got to good metal.
Next I used a wire brush and some sand paper to get it as clean as I could.
after that used some Ospho rust converter on the area. I had read that it can damage good paint so I mask off the area with tape and applied the Opsho with a rag so it wouldn’t run all over the place, the Ospho is very thin.. I had enough on the rag so that the Ospho could run down in the top edge/lip, of the folded over metal as I applied it.

I read to leave it overnight so I did. Over night I read “not to” leave it overnight, that it needs to be removed before it dries. That article also said you can reactivate it is left overnight by applying another coat, so that is what I did and then rinsed it off while it was still wet.

Next I wire brushed, sanded the area again, wiped it down with denatured alcohol, and primed it. I waited about 15 minutes between coats, 3 of them and then after 30 minutes of the final primer coat, painted it with Rustoleum Semi-gloss enamel.

I should have applied some seam sealer but thought I will see how it goes without it for now. Using the 3 coats of primer sealed the seam up pretty good and then that was followed by the top coat. On top of that, the drivers door had no rust in that area and had no seam sealer in that area.

The water getting in the door is from the old cracked window glass door sweeps which I have the new ones to replace them with.. That will stop the water and so the paint repair will not be exposed to the elements...


This is the little area under the door after I scraped back a little of the paint/seam sealer


kept scraping


cleaned and primed. any other spots are weatherstrip glue and dirt.


done except for removing the tape at the top.


This was a spot around the doghouse. It has been preped like i did the door and ready for primer. I also used a mirror to look underneath the lip and there was no rust.


Primed and ready for paint


Not very professional here as I didn't have tape with me but it is under the carpet and doghouse cover. The point was to stop the rust from growing

 

I wont answer for annaleigh.. But from what I'm reading on the forums, rustoleum might last 3 years left out in the elements before it fades and starts to crack and fail. Valspar "Restoration Series" Tractor and Implement paint was way better.. But discontinued probably because of the VOC's..

I have a few small dents on the bottom of the body Id like to repair also and it would be nice if it the paint matched. I used marine epoxy for my roof gutter repairs which could soften in the summer sun if I used a dark color.

Looks good annaleigh.

Photobucket can go pound sand!

Another good site.. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

 

That is a very interesting site with most people putting in a lot of hard work with beautiful results..

I didn't do a lot of research into the issue, I just stumbled across it and was told that about my repair. BUT mine is in a location where it doesn't really matter and I had everything on hand...

As to what paint to use, I would consult a local automotive paint store. they can tell you if it can be applied by hand. The price for a qt might be about the same... The big difference using automotive paint is that you kow there wont be an issue later if you repaint the whole van.

 

Yeah, I cant believe the time most of those guys spent sanding off runs, brush marks or bugs for each coat. And then only get two or three years before the paint starts to get chalky? Wow..

I'm really tempted to let my buddy spray some chevy white he has laying around even after he assured me it wouldn't match.

Or this might be a better option.. https://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic...-starfire.html

 

I used Dupli-color aerosol spray paint to provide the color coat on my fender flares. They had a match for my color code and I was pleased at how well it matched. A 4oz can sold for $8 at AA. If you need more and have your own spray gun, they sell a Qt size can through Walmart for $28.

 

Thanks Jeff..

Testing 123 my new flickr account. JC!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/152274737@N08/35545580071/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4256/35545580071_4c2d049e03_k.jpg" width="2048" height="1536" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

ah ha, you got those blue harbor freight led lights too!

 

I must have done it wrong
I just wiped the area with brakleen and sprayed
still can't tell the area I shot 3 years later