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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:23 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
You checked the fuse for your cigarette lighter or your aux port? your OBD power is tied to one of those.
If the scan tool powered up, that isn't an issue. If the scan tool has its own power, it doesn't care about pin 16 power. If it doesn't have its own power and the cigar lighter fuse is blown, then the scanner will be dead.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
If the scan tool powered up, that isn't an issue. If the scan tool has its own power, it doesn't care about pin 16 power. If it doesn't have its own power and the cigar lighter fuse is blown, then the scanner will be dead.
If it is powering up and it's saying communication error, my experience has been that the reader is too old for the truck. My old reader wouldn't read any OBD newer than 2005. My new one will read current 2017 and older.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 07:38 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
If it is powering up and it's saying communication error, my experience has been that the reader is too old for the truck. My old reader wouldn't read any OBD newer than 2005. My new one will read current 2017 and older.
That particular situation indicates a non-CAN scanner trying to connect to a CAN-bus vehicle. Since the OP has a 2000 non-CAN vehicle, this can not be the case this time.

I forget the exact years, but all US-market vehicles had to be CAN-bus by 06 or 07 and Ford started that transition on certain models around the 03-04 MY time frame.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 02:35 PM
  #19  
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All fuses are good. Considering it has no spark, no injector power, no obd2 capability, i dont believe the fuel pump is engaging, im assuming its the pcm.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 02:49 PM
  #20  
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If the code reader powers up but can't connect, even with the key on, then combined with the other symptoms I believe your PCM is dead. There are companies that can try to repair it for you, or you're going to have to order a programmed replacement. Either way, you'll have to pull the PCM out first so you can see which part number you have.

I can tell you from personal experience do NOT order a replacement through a company called Flagship 1. I ordered one for my truck two weeks ago from them before reading their reviews and it still hasn't even shipped. Keep getting BS excuses from customer service. All in line with their bad reviews.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 02:51 PM
  #21  
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One other thought, when you cycle the key with the under-dash fuse panel open, can you hear the relays clicking? If the PCM relay roasted, that would also cause the rest of the symptoms.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #22  
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I verified that the relays are good too. My obd2 reader is just a cheap one from Walmart but it should be compatible enough to get a generic code.

I usually try to check the simple things first but so far all things poison to the computer.

I greatly appreciate all the input from everyone.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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I verified that the relays are good too. My obd2 reader is just a cheap one from Walmart but it should be compatible enough to get a generic code.

I usually try to check the simple things first but so far all things poison to the computer.

I greatly appreciate all the input from everyone.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 09:08 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by maticuno
I can tell you from personal experience do NOT order a replacement through a company called Flagship 1. I ordered one for my truck two weeks ago from them before reading their reviews and it still hasn't even shipped. Keep getting BS excuses from customer service. All in line with their bad reviews.
I have to partially retract this statement. When I arrived home today, the replacement PCM was waiting for me on the front porch. Ten minutes later I had a running truck. So far, so good. While it may have taken a week and a half longer than originally scheduled, the company seems to have come through.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 10:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by maticuno
I have to partially retract this statement. When I arrived home today, the replacement PCM was waiting for me on the front porch. Ten minutes later I had a running truck. So far, so good. While it may have taken a week and a half longer than originally scheduled, the company seems to have come through.
Glad you got your's running!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 10:23 PM
  #26  
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I would like to take a moment to announce to the world how much I appreciate engineers! I love how they put the crank sensor right behind the ac compressor. Using such a small mild steel bolt threaded into aluminum was an awesome idea to. It's not like the bolt is hard to get at, or the little bolt might rust, maybe that thing called electrolysis might happen, it's not like any one would ever break the head off of the bolt!

Putting my tools down, walking away and getting a stiff drink for the night.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #27  
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got an up date. Sent the pcm to a place for repair. SIA auto electronics, very fast and only $129. The repair tech told me i had fried circuits.

However i still have no spark. Even replaced cam and crank sensors. Any body got an idea?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 07:03 PM
  #28  
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And my obd 2 reader still wont communicate with the truck. It powers up and tries to scan but no reading.

Any thoughts on this one guys?

thanks
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 08:14 PM
  #29  
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PCM diode???
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #30  
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Im looking up where the pcm diode would be. Im not clear as to what it really is.
 
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