Radiator Leak
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
A/C condenser mounts in front of the radiator.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Westminster
well it appears after calling quite a few of the local auto repair shops here in Westminster MD. that no one repairs, or knows anyone that repairs radiators anymore
(thanks Bill, for the info on the Econoline radiator)
(thanks Bill, for the info on the Econoline radiator)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 60
From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
In the mean time you could take a look on the radiator's top tank or side mounting bracket (if it's the original radiator) for an identification number. It will look a bit like a part number, but isn't.
Post that number, and if we haven't heard from Bill, I'll try to get the part number.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Westminster
I did PM Bill, but haven't heard back from him, maybe he didn't understand what I was asking, its dark here now, don't know if I can see the numbers very well, I did look once before, but I'll double check where you mentioned
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Those can be repaired by most rad shops (if you can find one) and can even replace failed plastic tanks. I've had a few done over the years.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Westminster
I pulled my radiator today, there is a piece of metal on the inside of the coils, wedged between a fin and a coils segment, it has the following numbers on it
19
2270433
and its marked just like that, is this a radiator part number ???
19
2270433
and its marked just like that, is this a radiator part number ???
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 60
From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
Based on 1979; F-150; 351M; A/C; automatic transmission
The Ford truck parts master catalog says that (via the applications listing) the part number should be
D8TZ 8005-A
The dimensions should be:
core height: 19-3/4"
core width: 26-7/32"
core thickness: 1-61/64"
I'd still feel more comfortable with a confirmation, but that's the best I can do in its absence.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 138
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From: Westminster
Thanks Ozzie, I went out just before dark and looked at all 6 sides if the thing, no numbers at all that I can see, it was painted, so maybe its covered and I can't see them, but as far as I caan tell it seems to measure 19 1/2 x 26 1/4 and looks to be about a 2" core, so that about matches up with your dimension you gave me.
I found a radiator shop about 30 miles from me, I'm going to take it to them Monday and see what they think about fixing it, or replace it.
I found a radiator shop about 30 miles from me, I'm going to take it to them Monday and see what they think about fixing it, or replace it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 60
From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
Manufactured coolants are not all "created equal". Some are more acidic than others by birth. The more acidic ones create a more difficult environment for the vehicle's cooling system components to "live" in. Some metals are more affected by acid than others. Aluminum seems to be quite vulnerable to acidic coolants. Other metals can also be affected. The more acidic coolants can cause erosion of the aluminum (& others) in the form of "pitting" (or thinning) of the surfaces. It is generally considered undesirable to those who like to keep their vehicles for decades. Hence, if you can determine the pH (degree of acidity) of your coolant you can get your vehicle to live longer by avoiding the exposure to the more acid coolants.
My reference was probably made to the erosion of the brass tubes in the radiator after decades of use. When the metal becomes thin, repair of a leak can become futile, in that one leak gets repaired only to be followed soon by another leak. When this happens replacement of the entire radiator (or a "re-coring" job) becomes necessary.
My reference was probably made to the erosion of the brass tubes in the radiator after decades of use. When the metal becomes thin, repair of a leak can become futile, in that one leak gets repaired only to be followed soon by another leak. When this happens replacement of the entire radiator (or a "re-coring" job) becomes necessary.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
Just a couple antifreeze facts worth mentioning...
In 2013, all anti freeze manufacturers agreed to begin adding "bitterness" to deter any animal or child from drinking it. Before 2013, dogs preferred it over sweetwater and it hardened their liver overnight. 180 proof flushing was the only cure for mild doses.
In 2013, all anti freeze manufacturers agreed to begin adding "bitterness" to deter any animal or child from drinking it. Before 2013, dogs preferred it over sweetwater and it hardened their liver overnight. 180 proof flushing was the only cure for mild doses.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
I would think PH / Acid would only come from the tap water it's mixed with? Best way to avoid that is to just purchase full strength and mix with distilled water. What I've always done and my oldest radiators are ticking 20+ years on the same coolant.