The test you asked me to do basically is to find if it's making the spark on all the coils when the car starts cold. Just curious, if one doesn't spark, the car should have some sort of rough idle, etc ...

 

Correct, what you want to know is if the right side coil pack is making spark when the engine is being cranked & running when cold & the CEL is lit & when warm & the CEL is out.
The inductive timing light lets you safely do this without much danger of getting shocked if there is a HV leak in a spark plug wire.

The P0222 is for the right/exhaust manifold side coil pack, which is used to start the engine, then when running, the system is supposed to activate the left/intake manifold side coil pack to make spark.

So you want to confirm that's happening & that you wrote the correct trouble code Number down.

 

I will try your advice. However, my thinking is that if right side coil pack is not making spark, why it would make spark later on when the car warms up. I think it's something related to the temperature of the engine. The issue is heat related, but not sure which component fails. What do you think?

 

If the right side isn't making spark when you crank the engine, it wouldn't start!!!! So that's why I wondered about the code Number being correct.

I agree & also think Something seems to be heat sensitive & it doesn't seem to be the ICM, as you've replaced it & you say the old one bench checks out, BUT Murphy's Law may be messing with you!!!

If it turns out that it's the left/intake manifold side coil pack that's not making spark until the CEL goes out, then maybe you jotted down the wrong code number?

We can speculate all day with "what if's", so lets have the test results suggest how we think about what's happening.

 

I never have starting problem at all from day one til now. So right side coil pack should be good. Do you think O2 sensor has something to do with this issue? What about MAF sensor? Thanks in advance.

 

Read the last sentence in post #19.

Trouble code P0222 doesn't have any thing to do with those items, so stay focused on what it's trying to tell you.

Do you have trouble code clues for those items that you haven't posted?

Don't toss any more parts at the problem on a hunch, or speculation, hoping for joy, as it'll not likely bring satisfaction.

Try to discipline yourself to stay focused, perform a proper trouble shoot following what trouble code clues suggest.

 

Try to remember to answer as accurately as memory allows, All the questions posters ask, as those questions & complete answers to them, can offer up good clues too.

 

I started this issue with 211, 222, 332 (when I finally bought the code reader).
I reset the codes by disconnecting the battery. I drove around and only code detected is 222 (111, 10, 222).
I changed the DIS with new spark plugs and LT/RT coil packs, hoping it would resolve it, fault code 222 remains. I will return the new DIS and install back the old DIS since it has passed the test at Autozone.
The car has 350K miles, it starts fine (cold or warm, night or day), no rough idle, runs fine with no power loss, A/C works well, I do oil change every 5000 miles, I noticed there is a little tiny leak on the rear main seal.

 

The 93 & 94 2.3L 4banger's used a Dual Vane crank sensor that's known to cause problems, so maybe put the crank sensor vane that's supplying the right side coil pack timing info to the system, it's electrical connector pins/sockets & wiring on the intermittent 222 code suspect list for close inspection & back probe testing it's output when cold.

The ICM electrical connector is known to suffer water intrusion & pin/socket corrosion, so it belongs on the suspect list for close inspection too.

On the crank shaft rear main seal weep, maybe consider a high mileage oil recipe with seal/gasket conditioners that might be able to address that small weep.

More thoughts for pondering.

 

I have tried those high mileage oils, plus rear main seal conditioners. It doesn't work for me. Maybe I wait until the time I need to change out the clutch, I will address it.

One side question for oil change, with this type of high mileage (350K), do you think I should use thicker oil or still 10W30?

Anyway, thanks for your kindness support. If I have anything new to report, I will definitely let you know.

 

Have you performed the timing light test on both coil packs when the engine is cold & the CEL is still on?

 

I have not performed the test yet because I don't have the tool to do so. Need to purchase one from Harbor Freight. Again, if the light blinks, meaning current is there.

 

Yes it'll indicate that particular coil pack is being triggered to & is making spark.

 

Bought the tool and checked coil cables. They are all making sparks.

 

Ok, was this "all making sparks" test performed cold, or hot, when the CEL is lit?
Are both coil packs making sparks when hot & the CEL is lit?