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Originally posted by BigMattXXL Hey, I remember that article! It's been a long time, but I remember that they found the best way to protect an engine is ......... GASP........regular changes with new oil & filter.
XXL
You left out two more important points. Never let your engine get cold, never let the oil drain off the internal parts.
If you want a real oil test, get 1000 soccer moms and their mini-vans. They start cold, drive, stop and let it cool off before it gets completely warm, repeat. Murder on oil and hard on engines.
If you drive a cab 24/7 like NYC cabs get driven, then you can get away with cheap oil changed often.
Originally posted by Ecuri Junk! I think the bottle even says "shake before using". Next time you see a slick 50 bottle in a trash can, cut it open. These are the same people that brought you "Lubrilon" in the 70's. It was junk then and it is junk now.
Ahhhh yet another "well informed" opinionated consumer The bottle does not say "shake before using". But you know that new coffee creamer (vanilla caramel) I like so much does.
BTW, my wife is a "soccer mom" and does mostly stop a go short trip driving. We live in the mountains on to of it all and our Minivan is approaching the 200k mark. I Use Slick 50 in it every 50k miles and standard Mobil oil which I change every 10-12k miles and not a mile sooner. I used to have a Chrysler K car I bought in Germany. I killed that thing on the autobahn all the time. I sold it with 178k on it about 5 years ago. It's still running! Same deal, Slick 50 every 50k and dino-oil every 10-12k. I could go on but why bother. Another story of how slick 50 will "ruin" engines. Blah. So many opinions, so little time to read.
whatever you do dont use amsoil it is junk and it cost me to many race parts due to excessive heat. its to hard for them to dissipate heat is why. 25 laps in a race in new smyra fl the rear end was burnt. 3200 bucks just for the housing that is not including my ring gear,quick change gear,ect ect, oil cooler,pump,inliner peterson filter. so dont use it.. i use redline now with no problems, or mega power
RedLine is for racing. Most products by Amsoil are not and don't claim to be. Their 20W50 is however. My Cars are NOT race cars and I would use Amsoil in them if I didn't already use Mobil 1.
Funny thing is I have a QA guy in Ohio who drag races a Ford Ranchero and they use Amzoil exclusively?????? Maybe your "Blanket" Recomendation is a bit overstated???
well when you have amsoil for a sponser and ther product kicked you out of the race you really dont have that much faith in them after that. and please tell me that whoever you are talking about in ohio is a drag racer. cause well all know that they race for about 4 seconds. not 250 plus laps
you really dont think that a drag car is going to generate as much heat as a stock car do ya? do you think that the rear end is going to get even over 150 degrees in a 1/4 mile, in a stock car i havent seen a rear end ofter 20 laps of pratice even come close to being under 275 to 300 degrees.so i doubt very seriously that the oil that your drag racer uses in a ford ranchero would even hold a candle to what we use now. ..food for thought when i worked for johnny benson in the winter although we were sponsered by valvoline we didnt always use valvoline oil..
My friend is not sponcered by Amzoil. He uses their MOTOR oil in his engine with great results.
You said don't use Amzoil in your statement. I didn't realise the only product you used was gear oil. I have no basis of reference for that procuct so I can't comment.
i have used there motor oil in my dodge cummings before it blew up and i ran it for 15,000 miles before i changes back to rotella, i didnt have any trouble with it but that was in a diesel. after the incident at the track i am scared to use it again it cost over 5 grand to fix everything it burnt. but just like yoiu said i used ther gear oil and not there motor oil in my race car. i think that there pruduct has a hard time holding up to the constant heat and wear that a stock car goes though. but that just my experince
If there is nothing wrong with an engine then why would you put anything in it besides oil? If you want to spend extra during an oil change consider buying better oil.
When you pour slick 50 in for the next 5000 miles you have slick 50, then when you drain it out you have new oil and the slick 50 is gone. So how is it protecting the engine for those 50,000 miles?
Maxlife is good oil for older engines. It helps seals stay pliable and helps reduce oil consumption. Synthetic oil is also fine for an older engine, but a waste if the motor is on its last legs. Your engine lacks oil pressure though neither of these will help that. The only thing that will help that is thicker oil. Maxlife 10W40 maybe?
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