Ford E-350 with 7.5L engine, runs fine until ambient temperatures get into the upper 80s. The engine stalls, then wont run until it cools down ~40 minutes.

Maintenance just performed
replaced ignition control module on side of distributor
replaced high pressure fuel pump and filter
Distributor cap, wires
fresh tank of gas

no longer has a catalytic converter


After replacing above, drove 350 miles fine - in cool temperatures - below 75 degrees. Then after lunch stalled again...let cool down - starts running again;

 

Does it have a carburetor ?
Sounds like old school vapor lock

 

Tossing this Link to you, which might be helpful?

Keep in mind, that the 5.0 & 5.8 are similar solenoid wise.

From memory.........others' have had this problem, and relocated the ICM away from the side of the distributor, out of the engine heat.

There's the Topic, and some links inside the topic for the same problem.

Flash to the last post to see the results.


*Carburetor were gone by '87 or '88 on these engines*

 

this year is fuel injected, the new ICM has 350 miles on it, seems like it shouldnt cause a problem that fast.

 

True, but it could be a problem with the Coil Pick-up that's mounted inside the distributor. Replacement of the distributor might be needed??

Check this test for the ICM from the link I posted above, Link.

That could help determent what might be causing this problem.
Me, at this stage, age and mileage, I would just replace the distributor, and move the ICM to a "cooler" location.

Also, with the age ('95 = 22 years), it might be worth it to pull the ECM out, open the case, and inspect the capacitors for leaking that green junk, There have been many posts on this subject around here.

 

While I have not as yet experienced that with my 1989 e350, what you describe sounds what other have described when the in tank fuel pump fails. That vintage was very much not fond of warmer temperatures or fuel quantities below half tank. Any way you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to it when it fails?

 

Agree, thinking fuel pump, may just do the tank and pump at the same time

 

finally got the fuel tank off, the fuel pump/sending unit did not have a pump installed !!

 

Hi everybody...
I have a 1989, 28' motorhome with Ford E-350 460 7.5l V8 that is giving me problems like the mentioned above.

I am on vacation in BC (Canada), we driven it for about 2500km without problems......but on the way back it started to loose power and I get forced to pull over. After 30/40 minutes waiting it stated again until stops again after around 80km. After waiting it started again but it was able to run only for 30 km.

I been able to reach the campground and the next morning it was able to run for other 150 km and than starts to stop as the day before.

I brought it to a mechanic that checked everything and it seems that the engine it super fine but by the symptoms described, he replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

Nothing to do, the day after it stopped again.

We brought it again to another mechanic on the road and he changed also the TFI module.

Again nothing to do, the day after it stopped again after 150/160km.

I am going crazy to understand what's wrong with it and the mechanics are not able to find the problem.... someone is able to help me?

Thanks a lot

 

DelMar85,
It sounds like you have a bad PIP sensor that is located inside the distributor.
Very hard to change on the road so most just change the distributor.
You need a NEW distributor as most rebuilt distributor will have the same problem. When they rebuilt a distributor they do not change the PIP sensor out only test it and it will test good when cold.
Most of the distributors that are changed out are because of a bad PIP sensor.

I have also heard of the PCM Computer doing this problem but would look at the PIP sensor first. I hope when they changed out the TFI module (ICM) that they used white thermal compound or this can also cause this problem if they used nothing or clear dielectric grease.

 

Hey brewerkz, did you fix your problem at the end?
Is the engine working properly now?

If so, what you have done?

Thanks

 

I had this problem, and replacing the distributor fixed it. I believe it was a bad PIP sensor.
Beware that when you replace the distributor you must match the gear material to the cam material.

Steve

 

So an update. Replacing my distributor did NOT fix my problem. So it was NOT a bad PIP sensor.

I just attempted a trip from Alabama to Virginia last week. 95F+ temps. Had AC going. RV stumbled and died - coasted to the side of the road. Any attempt to give gas with the pedal would result in horrible stumbling and backfiring through the intake. Eventually engine would die at idle. We picked the RV up on Friday night, and drove it home in 80F+ temps, without the AC running, RV drove fine the entire way home.

Parts already replaced:
Radiator
Distributor (thus PIP sensor also)
Spark Plugs and Wires
Ignition Control Module
Fuel Pump (in-tank)

At this point I am seriously thinking it may be a fuel starvation problem, not an electrical component failure problem.

I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure.

I am thinking about replacing the high pressure fuel pump and pressure regulator, and fuel filter.

Steve

 

Hi , Have you find the problem ? Same problem for me ...

 

No, I never found the problem, but it has turned cold for the winter so it's unlikely I will see the problem until next summer.

After I had the distributor and plug wires and plugs replaced, I started having a stumble in top gear under load (engine lugging) between 45-55 MPH.

In an attempt to fix this and the dying-while-hot problem, I have replaced:

• Fuel Pressure Regulator (I put OEM back in as it gave higher pressure readings).
• Distributor
• Plug Wires
• Spark Plugs
• Engine Temperature Sensor (this was bad - was causing rough idle when cold, replacing fixed).
• Air Charge Temperature Sensor
• MAP sensor
• Throttle Position Sensor
• EGR Valve
• EGR Valve Solenoid
• EGR Valve Position Sensor
• Catalytic Converter (banging sound was coming from inside as internal matrix had broken loose and hammered at idle)
• O2 Sensor
• Coil
• Ignition Control Module
• Air Idle Valve
• In-tank fuel pump was replaced when it burned up about 4 years ago.

My stumble problem has almost gone away. It is very slight now. I don't know if it is a result of replacing parts or whether it is running 2 tanks of Top Tier gasoline through it, along with 2 bottles of Gumout and 1 large bottle of Lucas treatment.

I also pulled out all the fuel injectors and back-flushed them with carb cleaner.

I don't know that the stumble is related to the dying-when-hot issue. I expect to see that again next summer. I have purchased some stainless steel louvers that I may install in the hood to reduce under-hood temperatures if it comes back again. I'm still half-convinced the problem is vapor lock even though the system is EFI and recirculates back to the tank. If I see this again I'm going to use my infrared thermometer to try and get a reading of the temperature of the fuel tank.

If you google "Ford 460 dying while hot" you will find many internet forum posts on this issue. Like this one:

Ford 460 engine problems

People have suggested that it was the PIP sensor, ICM, and Fuel Pressure Regulator. Some have claimed replacing the fuel pump(s) fixed it.I had the heat shut down problem after replacing the Distributor, plugs, plug wires, and engine temperature sensor. I have not had the problem since I replaced everything else but again, summer has not come again yet.

Steve