Stalling problems. Need help
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Spokane, WA
I forgot to mention I removed that hose before taking the pic. It was the hose for the tranny. I replaced it. Thanks for telling me what all that is also. How do you remove the oil sender so I can righted that tree up? Is it something I just grab on to and twist? Or do I loosen that nut that's right below the can part of it? That brake booster hose is most definitely the oldest hose on there just by the looks of it so I think ill replace that just because. That tree is definitely loose. Like you can push it back and forth with your finger kinda floppy like. Probably the root cause I'm thinking? That tree to tighten it seems like I have to twist the whole thing around unless I'm wrong and the nut deal on it is stuck? Do you know? Thanks for the help.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
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From: Great American SouthWest
I forgot to mention I removed that hose before taking the pic. It was the hose for the tranny. I replaced it. Thanks for telling me what all that is also. How do you remove the oil sender so I can righted that tree up? Is it something I just grab on to and twist? Or do I loosen that nut that's right below the can part of it? That brake booster hose is most definitely the oldest hose on there just by the looks of it so I think ill replace that just because. That tree is definitely loose. Like you can push it back and forth with your finger kinda floppy like. Probably the root cause I'm thinking? That tree to tighten it seems like I have to twist the whole thing around unless I'm wrong and the nut deal on it is stuck? Do you know? Thanks for the help.
If it's not too tight, and you've got a good grip, you can just twist it out. I've also destroyed one by removing with a big pair of channelocks. Fortunately, they're cheap to replace!
You shouldn't need to mess with the oil pressure sender to get to the vacuum tree. The tree itself has flats that you can wrench on-carefully. You don't want to slip and break off a nipple. Disconnect the hoses, pull the tree, and make sure it's good. By good, I mean that it doesn't leak vacuum. You might hold your fingers over the nipples, like a flute, and suck on the threaded end. Sounds gross and nasty!
Anyway, trees are expensive, so hope it's not cracked. If it's good, throw some teflon tape on the threads, and put it back together
To rule out the booster, just cap off the big vacuum nipple that the hose connects to-perhaps directly to the carburetor? If your vacuum and idle problems go away, you'll know where to investigate further.
Last edited by PapaBearYuma; Jun 6, 2017 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Typo
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Spokane, WA
Great! Thank you. The tree when I was trying to turn it with a wrench would turn the whole tree, that's what made me think the whole thing turns. Maybe it's just a bit seized up and needs some pb blaster on her! Thanks a ton for the help also! No one else I know owns old fords so this forum has been awesome!
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
Great! Thank you. The tree when I was trying to turn it with a wrench would turn the whole tree, that's what made me think the whole thing turns. Maybe it's just a bit seized up and needs some pb blaster on her! Thanks a ton for the help also! No one else I know owns old fords so this forum has been awesome!
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Senior User
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From: Spokane, WA
Man. I'm trying to get my oil pressure sending unit off. No wrenches fit behind it so I took vise grips and I was just going to replace it anyhow since it's super old. The can part of the unit is just spinning now. The bolt that holds it in won't budge..... The damn tree hits the sending unit and has 3 ports that aren't used on it, only 2 were being used so I was going to pick up a new one anyhow to eliminate future leaking spots..
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
Man. I'm trying to get my oil pressure sending unit off. No wrenches fit behind it so I took vise grips and I was just going to replace it anyhow since it's super old. The can part of the unit is just spinning now. The bolt that holds it in won't budge..... The damn tree hits the sending unit and has 3 ports that aren't used on it, only 2 were being used so I was going to pick up a new one anyhow to eliminate future leaking spots..
There should be enough room between the engine and the firewall (driver side) to get a wrench on that "bolt". If not, get a "shorty" wrench from Harbor Freight. Or cut off a regular sized wrench. You CAN do it!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Spokane, WA
Phew I did get it. Turns out the tree was metal so that's good i spose. The auto parts store didn't have a smaller one so I gues I'll be using that one with 3 ports plugged since I want to get it back together tomorrow. Bought a new oil pressure sensor because I'm pretty sure I broke that one. And bought new vac lines for all the ones that ran to that tree. Hopefully this does it! Had to leave for work so I didn't finish it tonight.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
Phew I did get it. Turns out the tree was metal so that's good i spose. The auto parts store didn't have a smaller one so I gues I'll be using that one with 3 ports plugged since I want to get it back together tomorrow. Bought a new oil pressure sensor because I'm pretty sure I broke that one. And bought new vac lines for all the ones that ran to that tree. Hopefully this does it! Had to leave for work so I didn't finish it tonight.
The sender will have a thin bead/row of thread sealant. That should be sufficient. Don't load it up with teflon tape, cuz the sender grounds through the threads. The sender actually measures resistance to ground, and if it doesn't have a good ground, you'll get a goofy reading.
Make sure the tree is good-no hidden cracks. Block the nipples and apply vacuum. Since you're buying new hose, get new vacuum caps, too. Sometimes you can't see the crack in the old ones. It doesn't hurt to put hose clamps or zip ties on the vacuum caps to keep them nice and snug.
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Senior User
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From: Spokane, WA
Once I get this put together I want to buy a vacuum gauge and test it. Does it matter what brand of gauge? Also any recommendations on a timing light that's isn't super expensive because it won't get used that often.
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Senior User
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From: Spokane, WA
I think I fixed my vacuum leak? I buttoned it all up just now and started it. Was idling like crap. Turned it off went to the motor and the top of my motor is covered in gas..... I assume that means it has good vacuum? Which screw controls the gas being pumped in? Is it the one right under the inlet of the fuel line I assume? And does screwing it in restrict the gas flow I assume?
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Senior User
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From: Spokane, WA
I assume vacuum will change timing? My uncle helped me adjust timing before I realized i had the mega vac leak. I read it's supposed to be 12-14 on stock 400. Does that sound right papabear? You seem to really know your stuff on these trucks. I backed the timing down just a little to see if that helped my shooting gas out the carb issue and it solved it all but I don't own a timing light so I still need to dial it in. But it sounded good, adjusted the screws to what I could audibly find the highest idle then adjusted my low idle screw so what I thought is appropriate cause I don't have a tack.... which I'm definitely going to install while I have interior torn apart. Do you know the rpm range these run at so I have a good idea of what I should look for in a tack? Thank you all again for your help with this issue! Seems like it's all fixed up now.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: NE Texas
The relationship is more like timing affecting vacuum. Vacuum directly affecting timing occurs via the vacuum advance - more vacuum to the advance advances your timing. But the normal process for most folks with a timing light is to disconnect the advance and plug it, set the idle correctly, set the timing with the timing light, then adjust the idle - eventually you have the right idle at the right timing. When you set timing by vacuum you should probably still start using the light, then adjust your timing to your highest vacuum, then retard your timing a bit to avoid pinging. All that being said, normally when you have gas coming out of the carb that is probably not a vacuum issue, but a carb issue - most likely an issue with either your float being set wrong or the needle/seat which is supposed to close off the gas flow being compromised and not sealing like it should.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
I assume vacuum will change timing? My uncle helped me adjust timing before I realized i had the mega vac leak. I read it's supposed to be 12-14 on stock 400. Does that sound right papabear? You seem to really know your stuff on these trucks. I backed the timing down just a little to see if that helped my shooting gas out the carb issue and it solved it all but I don't own a timing light so I still need to dial it in. But it sounded good, adjusted the screws to what I could audibly find the highest idle then adjusted my low idle screw so what I thought is appropriate cause I don't have a tack.... which I'm definitely going to install while I have interior torn apart. Do you know the rpm range these run at so I have a good idea of what I should look for in a tack? Thank you all again for your help with this issue! Seems like it's all fixed up now.
Fuel coming out of the carburetor is a totally separate issue. Where is the fuel escaping from? The most likely cause is a junk in the needle seat. It could also be that the float is set too high.
Try to discern where the fuel is escaping from. There is a transfer tube from the front bowl to the rear. There is an accelerator pump diaphragm that can leak. There are also fuel bowl vents.
Check the source of the leak, and we'll move on to how to fix it.
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Senior User
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From: Spokane, WA
It was coming from the fuel bowl vents I believe it would really shoot out when I would crank then when I stopped cranking it would blast out. I ended up clamping my fuel line also. I fixed all those issues I believe. I was able to barrow my friends timing light, vac gauge, and tac meter to get it dialed in tomorrow. Seems to be running wayyyyyy wayyyy better even now though I only tuned it by ear.
I almost forgot is that 12-14 timing with the vacuum assist detached and plugged from the rotor?
I almost forgot is that 12-14 timing with the vacuum assist detached and plugged from the rotor?