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F600 330 problems

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Old Jun 5, 2017 | 03:09 PM
  #16  
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C4TZ-12120-A .. Upper Dizzy Housing Bushing (Motorcraft MC-159) / Obsolete ~ 40+ available NOS

1964/78 FT engines.

1964/72 330 2V M/D use different exhaust/intake valves than like years 330 2V H/D & 361/391. These valves are silicone chrome, the exhaust valves are sodium cooled.

1973/78 FT's use the same valves. The 1964/78 exhaust valves use rotators.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #17  
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sounds like you need to jack up the rear end first and check your gear ratio by spinning it, if it has a very high gear ratio the engine just won't be able to pull it with the big tires. I have a 75 f500, 25k mile air force truck, 330, 4 speed, 6.20 rear. 45-50 is all it does with the 7.25-20 tires on it, they are about 36 inches tall. I put a set of 11.00-20's on the rear for a while and it would run 65 with no problem even pulling my loaded equipment trailer. I put the small tires back on when I added the dump bed. It's not fast at all and I have to down shift on any hill, and 2nd gear on big hills is it, no power house at all, but it works. I agree with what others have said about getting the engine tuned right. Swapping in a 400 won't net you anything, if any swap a larger ft is the best option, or a 370 as you can get the parts, but you have to change the rivited in trans crossmember and bellhousing. or even a 460, or a diesel and od trans. Also make sure someone did'nt swap in a 2 speed rear, they default to the low side.

Check gears and make sure it's running right and you should be good.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 02:45 PM
  #18  
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So I just finished compression testing. Looking at about 90psi across the board so I'll be likely looking at motor swapping. I found only 1 361 engine but it's about a 6 hour drive one way and I'll have to pull it myself as well.

You were saying above that a 460 would be a relatively easy swap? Would a 460 bell housing mate up to my 4 speed trans?

I'm looking to hopefully do the most direct swap possible but like I said, these motors are few and far in between in Alberta. Is there any links or build threads that have some info on using an FE engine in a medium duty truck such as mine?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 04:36 PM
  #19  
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A couple of questions:

When you did the compression check, did you do it with the carb wide open (as in, the gas-pedal to the floor) ? If not, those numbers might be OK - and even on a 330 with it's low-compression aren't THAT horrible as long as they are all about the same.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 05:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Krewat
A couple of questions:

When you did the compression check, did you do it with the carb wide open (as in, the gas-pedal to the floor) ? If not, those numbers might be OK - and even on a 330 with it's low-compression aren't THAT horrible as long as they are all about the same.
I just unplugged the coil. Didn't open the throttle though. It was consistently 90psi over all cylinderd with 1 being at 110psi. Cranked about 6 revolutions per
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 05:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Code3cody
I just unplugged the coil. Didn't open the throttle though. It was consistently 90psi over all cylinderd with 1 being at 110psi. Cranked about 6 revolutions per
yeah, you need to open the carb wide-open so the engine can gulp as much air as it can. Without the carb open, 90psi is pretty good

If you already buttoned everything back up and the plugs are back in, I'd start looking elsewhere for your power problems. Don't expect a 330 to do much however. My brother had a '68 F600 roll-back with a 330 in it. It would do the job, but that was here on Long Island where there's almost no hills whatsoever. But he could at least hit 65 on flat terrain.

Your gearing might be awful too. Is it a duel-speed rear and do you have it in "high" ?

Check that the mechanical advance in the distributor is working, you have the initial timing set right, and that the vacuum advance is working and it's NOT hooked to manifold vacuum and it's hooked to ported carb vacuum.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 05:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Krewat
yeah, you need to open the carb wide-open so the engine can gulp as much air as it can. Without the carb open, 90psi is pretty good

If you already buttoned everything back up and the plugs are back in, I'd start looking elsewhere for your power problems. Don't expect a 330 to do much however. My brother had a '68 F600 roll-back with a 330 in it. It would do the job, but that was here on Long Island where there's almost no hills whatsoever. But he could at least hit 65 on flat terrain.

Your gearing might be awful too. Is it a duel-speed rear and do you have it in "high" ?

Check that the mechanical advance in the distributor is working, you have the initial timing set right, and that the vacuum advance is working and it's NOT hooked to manifold vacuum and it's hooked to ported carb vacuum.
It's a single speed axle. I haven't replaced the coil yet, I'll do that with an msd coil and I don't know if I have the carb mixture adjusted right. I believe the vacuum advance is working properly and I set timing to 6 degrees btdc.

I don't expect it to be a power house but it needs to be able to do 60mph or it won't be safe on the highways.

I don't know much about adjusting carbs either. Could that be the problem if it's running really rich? Plugs looked fine.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 10:19 AM
  #23  
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Try advancing the timing a few degrees, maybe even as far as 10 or 12 and see what happens. These engines are such low compression that they won't ping.

Also - does this have a governor on it? Can you post pics of the carb and distributor?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 01:20 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Code3cody
You were saying above that a 460 would be a relatively easy swap?
Who said this?

Would a 460 bell housing mate up to my 4 speed trans?
No.
460 was not available until 1983 with a M/T (or 4WD), and then only in F250/350.

All 1983/96 F250/350 460 and 1997 F250 H/D & F350 460 have a hydraulic clutch.

460 only installed in misc 1968/78 cars; 1973/76 F100; 1973/79 F250/350; 1975/79 F150; 1975/97 E250/350; 1983/97 F250/350.

> 460 not installed in 500 and larger series trucks. The 460 mounts completely different than the FT's or 370/429, both of which use a similar engine/trans mounting system. <

1979: 370 & 429 (same engine family as 460, but internally different) introduced in 500 and larger series trucks, replacing the FT's that were installed 1964/78.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 02:03 PM
  #25  
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But I think a 460 could bolt in place of a 429 - it's the same block. You'd need to be careful about externally balanced versus internally (a flywheel that would match the bellhousing and transmission), and a few other things.

But if you were to get 429 mounts/bell/etc, you could do it.

My brother once put a brand-new Ford 429 crate-engine into a '68 F600. So it's possible. And I believe he used all bolt-on stuff, nothing custom made.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 02:28 PM
  #26  
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"3 point" engine mounting system: Front center and at the rear: 223/262 I-6's, Y blocks, FT's: 401/477/534; some 1965/66 F100/350 240/300/352; 370/429:

L shaped bracket bolts to the block, uses a center upper and lower rubber insulator.

Bolt passes thru the bracket, thru the upper insulator, thru the cross member and lower insulator. Nut/washer tightens 'em up.

Bell housings have 2 "ears" & 4 rear rubber insulators: R/L lower insulators located below cross member, R/L upper insulators located above cross member below the ears.

Bolts pass thru the lower insulators, thru the cross member, thru the upper insulators, thru the ears. Nuts/washers tighten 'em up.
----------
460 and a gazillion other engines: R/L engine supports bolt to the frame rails, R/L rubber insulators bolt to the block, then to the supports.

Center trans insulator bolts to rear engine support bracket that some call a cross member.

460 internal balance uses specific flexplate and harmonic balancer: 1968/78, some 1979's (1979: depends on the block casting number).

460 external balance (has a weighted crank spacer) uses a specific harmonic balancer, flexplate and (1983/97) flywheel: Some 1979's, 1980/97.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #27  
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if you drive alot your best bet would be a 5.9 cummins and od manual trans, even one out of a pickup would work if you make the mounts. With your setup I don't think your heavy enough to have any problems. If you don't drive it often, swap in another gas engine or rebuild what you have. You can swap in anything if you can make the mounts. Any style mounting system. I had a 78 f600 4x4 that the fire department had a tall deck 427 chevy swapped into it, worked great.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 06:03 PM
  #28  
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330 help

The 330, 361 truck engine have very low compression. I would like to see you pull it rebuild it with at 8.5 compression. From there it would be great to go edelbrock as much as budget allows, cam lifters, springs, intake, carb. Then install a new msd distributor you wont be sorry. This combination will give you ample power and torque. Plus it will run sweet. You wont believe how nice the edelbrock stuff works. I did this very combination in a 76 f250 360 and it was great.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 07:23 PM
  #29  
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Don't forget that there is a reason that medium duty gasoline engines were very low compression. Not only from Ford, but from all contemporary manufacturers.

Detonation is a very real problem on a highly loaded gas engine. Unlike a passenger car, trucks operate at relatively high rpm and load every time the vehicle accelerates from a stop or climbs even a small hill, and the operator is usually unable to hear it until well after the damage is done.

Be careful when applying hot rod tricks like increasing compression on a medium duty engine.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 04:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Code3cody
Hey all, I finally finished my F600 camper build. It started as a 75 uhaul that I pulled out of the ditch. I redid the full brake system, got some military deuce wheels and tires, built a flat deck and repainted. It's come a long way over the past few months! I finally put my camper on and took it for a ride down the highway.

I found that the fastest I could get it up to is about 80kmh (50mph). It seems incredibly underpowered and I'm just wondering if that is normal with these trucks. I know that the 42" tires probably kill a bunch of the power but for it to be that slow? The camper weighs 2100lbs and the deck maybe 500 so I can't see it being an issue of over weight. It was backfiring through the carb quite severely under load so I set the ignition timing to 7 degrees btdc. The carb air mixture has been set to 2 and a half turns out. It runs smoother since those changes but still not 100%. I replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel pump as well.

If that is normal for it, what are other options for motors? I know the 361 and 391 are basically direct bolt in but I have a feeling it will be hard to find one. What's all needed if I were to swap in for example a 400 from an older f250? Is there a bug difference between the pickup engines and medium duty? I'd like to keep the 4 speed trans that's currently in it if possible.

Some pics attached from when I got it until now
sorry to dig up a old post but I own this truck now and was c@Code3cody what else you did when you swapped in the 5speed?
 
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