squealing brakes!
#1
squealing brakes!
Hi guys, Ive dealt with this issue many times before but this time im at the last straw. I cant deal with sqealing brakes!! I have tried OEM, napa brand, auto zone and everything is fine for about a month into it and than they start to squeal. I always use the high temp ceramic brake lube on all brake parts. I have cut rotors, changed rotors, changed pads, prayed to the brake gods but nothing has worked.
I was curious to see what everyone is using out there and maybe there is one brand that everyone is choosing over the others out there and having great result.
Any info is good info.
Thank you,
AJ
I was curious to see what everyone is using out there and maybe there is one brand that everyone is choosing over the others out there and having great result.
Any info is good info.
Thank you,
AJ
#2
#3
#4
All I use are lifetime warranty (Bosch) rotors from oriellys and EBC brake pads (from riffraff of course!!).
They do not sell a pad at the autoparts store that I would use. They all SUCK.
Also, turning these rotors is not recommended. If they aren't already below spec (thickness), they will warp again in short order after turning.
If the rotors are not warped, don't turn them!!
The EBC pads have an abrasive break-in coating that 'conditions' old rotors. The advice to always turn rotors is really outdated...
They do not sell a pad at the autoparts store that I would use. They all SUCK.
Also, turning these rotors is not recommended. If they aren't already below spec (thickness), they will warp again in short order after turning.
If the rotors are not warped, don't turn them!!
The EBC pads have an abrasive break-in coating that 'conditions' old rotors. The advice to always turn rotors is really outdated...
#5
Rotors, just like pads, are a wear-item. You will replace them. I've been getting 50-60k miles from EBC Yellowstuff pads on my dually and I just swap rotors at every pad change (lifetime warranty rotors).
#6
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
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As you may know I used to be an EBC fan too. I also backed them with Bosch lifetime rotors.
I don't know how long it has been since you purchased EBC Yellows but the last two sets that I ran didn't last 15k and faded like crazy and trenched the rotors. I don't have a clue as to what has changed.
FWIW, a friend of mine suggested that I try NAPA Safety Stops. I was VERY skeptical. They cost 1/3 of what the EBC's do. They now have about 10k on them. I pulled the tires today to do an inspection and there is very little wear on the pads or rotors. They also stop really well in these large hills where we live with almost no fading.
I don't know how long it has been since you purchased EBC Yellows but the last two sets that I ran didn't last 15k and faded like crazy and trenched the rotors. I don't have a clue as to what has changed.
FWIW, a friend of mine suggested that I try NAPA Safety Stops. I was VERY skeptical. They cost 1/3 of what the EBC's do. They now have about 10k on them. I pulled the tires today to do an inspection and there is very little wear on the pads or rotors. They also stop really well in these large hills where we live with almost no fading.
#7
I've been using PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors, along with their Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow ceramic pads. They stop well and I don't have any brake squeal.
https://www.powerstop.com/product/po...ter%201%2F2000
I've always found the best price on the Powerstop kits at either RockAuto or AutoAnything.
Of course I am also meticulous about how I do brakes. Everything gets cleaned, hardware is always replaced ( Those shiny stainless inserts the pads slide on are a wear item and meant to be replaced with every pad change), and everything is liberally greased with High Temp ceramic brake lube. ( slides, tip of pads, back of pads where they contact the piston and the caliper, as well as removing any factory junk lube from the caliper pins and replacing with the ceramic stuff).
Another important thing, that many people probably forget, is the pad spreader/drag reduction clips that belong on the front pads. They are little wishbone shaped springs that put just enough force on the pads to help ensure they retract away from the rotor when you let off the brakes. Without them, the pads will tend to slightly drag.
2000 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip | RockAuto
Are your rotors or pads glazed perhaps? That could cause squealing. Glazing comes from overheating the brakes. That is one of the advantages of drilled rotors (increased cooling). The slots also allow brake dust and gases to escape, instead of getting between the pad and rotor. Also, the slots help to "scrape" a fresh surface onto the pad continually, removing any potential glazing on the pad at least.
Are you following the proper break in procedure for the new pads? This can make a big difference in longevity and long term performance.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
https://www.powerstop.com/product/po...ter%201%2F2000
I've always found the best price on the Powerstop kits at either RockAuto or AutoAnything.
Of course I am also meticulous about how I do brakes. Everything gets cleaned, hardware is always replaced ( Those shiny stainless inserts the pads slide on are a wear item and meant to be replaced with every pad change), and everything is liberally greased with High Temp ceramic brake lube. ( slides, tip of pads, back of pads where they contact the piston and the caliper, as well as removing any factory junk lube from the caliper pins and replacing with the ceramic stuff).
Another important thing, that many people probably forget, is the pad spreader/drag reduction clips that belong on the front pads. They are little wishbone shaped springs that put just enough force on the pads to help ensure they retract away from the rotor when you let off the brakes. Without them, the pads will tend to slightly drag.
2000 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip | RockAuto
Are your rotors or pads glazed perhaps? That could cause squealing. Glazing comes from overheating the brakes. That is one of the advantages of drilled rotors (increased cooling). The slots also allow brake dust and gases to escape, instead of getting between the pad and rotor. Also, the slots help to "scrape" a fresh surface onto the pad continually, removing any potential glazing on the pad at least.
Are you following the proper break in procedure for the new pads? This can make a big difference in longevity and long term performance.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
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#9
Hey guys im sorry for not responding for a while. Lately my brakes haven't squealed but i am noticing that i am getting a shimmy when slowing down. I checked my pads a week ago and still have life left but when i change them i will go with Bosch rotors and not sure what pads. I saw the one post about the ebc pads not holding up. Is that a true fact? And are the ebc pads meant for heavy towing or normal everyday driving? I bearly tow but i drive the truck daily.
#10
Hey guys im sorry for not responding for a while. Lately my brakes haven't squealed but i am noticing that i am getting a shimmy when slowing down. I checked my pads a week ago and still have life left but when i change them i will go with Bosch rotors and not sure what pads. I saw the one post about the ebc pads not holding up. Is that a true fact? And are the ebc pads meant for heavy towing or normal everyday driving? I bearly tow but i drive the truck daily.
The only negative is these pads sometimes squeak during break-in (up to 1000 miles depending on how you use them).
I would totally choose these pads even if I didn't tow. I hate to give up the braking confidence I feel with them and I notice 'inferior brakes' every time I drive another SuperDuty.
The 'shimmy' is warped rotors. I have also not warped a rotor yet using EBC pads. If you do warp a Bosch, that is covered by warranty and you can just swap them out. ;-)
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