Electrical Issues - Bad ECU or GEM Module?
First time poster but a fairly long time lurker - so hello =)
I'd like to get some feedback/comments if I could regarding my 2005 Ford Escape 4x4 - it's been well maintained since I've owned it (I'm the second owner) and it's only got 68K miles so I'd prefer to fix it...assuming the price doesn't offset the value.
6 months ago, I replaced the alternator since the headlights would dim and get bright, Ford confirmed a bad alternator, I ended up replacing it myself with a new one from a different brand. All was fine for 6 months.
2 weeks ago going down the road, most interior lights and electrical functions stop - engine continues to run just fine and I can keep driving. Problem is, the gauge cluster stops working (only the battery and air bag light stay lit), the radio goes off, headlights, brake lights, blinkers, horn, stops working). Air conditioner and fan keeps working.
When I'd slow down to idle, everything came back on.....speed up....everything goes back off. I hear a relay click under the center console and that's when something changes.
I did some additional troubleshooting and noticed I'm getting 15+ volts coming into the vehicle from the alternator, in fact the battery begins to boil. So I am assuming the BCM/GEM module cuts power to the interior as a safety feature (is that correct or possible?) What I don't understand is what is causing the overcharge condition to begin with. I've replaced the battery and alternator again this past weekend and the same behavior is present. Also checked for poor grounds and all is well.
Ford suspects a bad ECU or GEM module - they say it drives the alternator output but can't confirm if this will fix it or not.
I've pulled various codes but they are mainly CAN communication errors.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Hopefully someone that knows a little more about how the ecu works with the alternator will chime in.
I hooked my meter to the cigarette lighter port and found the alternator would short out when the circuit switched from low to high RPM. Removed the alternator and had AutoZone test it, tested fine (They can only replicate idle speed).
I went to the local pull-it yard and got one that looked brand new and installed it.
Problem solved.









