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My truck is coming up on 4,000 miles and was wondering when you 6.2 owners are performing your first oil change. I know the manual recommends every 7500 or 6 months for normal conditions.
Also, for those who are having their trucks serviced at the dealership, are you all having the multipoint inspection done? Thanks.
Our truck just turned over 1,500 miles. I changed the engine oil and filter at 1,000 miles; I'm old school.
Seven quarts of Motorcarft 5W-30 semi-syn oil plus a Motorcraft filter are pretty cheap over at Walmart, and it gave me a change to inspect the underside for loose/missing/bent/misrouted/missing items and leaks. The engine oil filler cap on the right-side (passenger) valve cover is relatively small; a funnel is essential.
The dealer will do a "courtesy" change at 5K miles. I'll discuss the MPI with 'em at that time. I'll likely follow a 5K OCI "special operating conditions" schedule when I'm towing and/or hauling, and a 7.5K schedule under "normal" use.
If you were to do a UOA (used oil analysis) you'd have a minor coronary.
There is so much crapola in your oil from the initial break-in of your engine, it should be drained at around 1,000 - 2,000 miles, IMHO.
I'm talking silver, aluminum, shavings in the microns......
Will it hurt your engine to go by the Owners Manual?
It won't do it any good.
A lot of people will say (quite correctly), "I don't have any problems and I change my oil when the OM sez to"
Not the point. The point isn't whether or not your engine is gonna grenade, it's how long it's going to keep the power it came with
You take the average vehicle and put it on a Dyno after 100k miles and it will have lost significant power. It's nowhere near ready to puke a bearing or put a rod through the side of the block, but it's weaker than it should be.
Once you get that crud out of your engine from the initial break-in, you're in pretty good shape. Plus, you have NO idea what was in there from the factory..... Maybe somebody's salami sandwich.....
Our truck just turned over 1,500 miles. I changed the engine oil and filter at 1,000 miles; I'm old school.
Seven quarts of Motorcarft 5W-30 semi-syn oil plus a Motorcraft filter are pretty cheap over at Walmart, and it gave me a change to inspect the underside for loose/missing/bent/misrouted/missing items and leaks. The engine oil filler cap on the right-side (passenger) valve cover is relatively small; a funnel is essential.
The dealer will do a "courtesy" change at 5K miles. I'll discuss the MPI with 'em at that time. I'll likely follow a 5K OCI "special operating conditions" schedule when I'm towing and/or hauling, and a 7.5K schedule under "normal" use.
I did my first at 3800 miles, the more I read engineers are saying that frequent unneeded oil changes actually do more damage during the startup without oil pressure then running the old oil. I certainly not saying run old oil but 3000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past
We have a relatively low 4x2 model and I'm a big guy, so I had to run our truck up onto 2x10's to get it just high enough for me to slide under. Access behind the front left tire to the oil pan drain plug and the oil filter was straightforward.
On the other hand, access to the top of the engine compartment was easy (for me).
I suspect that access under the 4x4 models would be rather comfortable "as is". Access to the top of the engine compartment may need a boost of some sort.
I did my first at 3800 miles, the more I read engineers are saying that frequent unneeded oil changes actually do more damage during the startup without oil pressure then running the old oil. I certainly not saying run old oil but 3000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past
Gas Engines:
I fill my new oil filter before I screw it on. Even if it's a side mount, I fill it and let the element soak up the oil. You'd be surprised by how much gets absorbed.
If it won't go on without leaking significant oil all over the place, I pour it back into the jug via a funnel. But the element inside is full of oil and that makes a difference.
You don't get that initial oil change death rattle when you start your engine
Depending on how I use the vehicle, I'll go 8,000 or thereabouts before I put new synthetic in it.
Diesels are different. I don't know enough about the newer ones to opine.
I don't know if synthetic is worthwhile in a newer Diesel since the crankcase tends to pollute enough to mandate frequent changes.
We have a relatively low 4x2 model and I'm a big guy, so I had to run our truck up onto 2x10's to get it just high enough for me to slide under. Access behind the front left tire to the oil pan drain plug and the oil filter was straightforward.
On the other hand, access to the top of the engine compartment was easy (for me).
I suspect that access under the 4x4 models would be rather comfortable "as is". Access to the top of the engine compartment may need a boost of some sort.
HTH,
Jim / crewzer
Thanks SD/crewzer, Im coming from a 2013 F150 and it has covers that have to come off to be able to get to the oil pan and oil filter. PITA
Almost at 5000 and the computer hasn't told me too yet so I'll wait. Unless of course someone comes up with some legitimate, relevant proof that waiting for the computer is bad for the truck; in that case I'll run to Walmart right now and get the stuff to do it early.
Almost at 5000 and the computer hasn't told me too yet so I'll wait. Unless of course someone comes up with some legitimate, relevant proof that waiting for the computer is bad for the truck; in that case I'll run to Walmart right now and get the stuff to do it early.
I believe the "Intelligent" Oil Life Monitor is a diesel engine only feature; see OM page 330.
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