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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #1  
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Heidrich1969
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Electrical gremlin

7 days ago while driving on a typical jersey road that was having underground utility work done all the idiot lights came on in dash and engine quit for split second but came back on. I checked battery cables but all clean and tight. The next day drove across the county with no issues. On return trip same thing happened 3 different times. Once it happened at a stop light. Upon restart there was about a 3 second delay in starter engagement but did start. Truck sat in driveway for 2 days. Went to start and nothing. Lights all come on. Relays in passenger kick panel click. Check wires here and there for bad connection. All seems good. The dash display stayed trailer brake module fault and service advancetrac. Call dealer and he stated to try a new battery. Used a jumper and engine turned over but no start. Took battery to the Zone and when they tested was told bad cells. Install new battery and nothing....again. Call dealer again and he says it needs to get to a shop. Towed in...now 3 days and no clue. Was told no communication at modules. Tests show dash cluster shot, PCM shot and gateway module shot. Dealer wants to find cause instead of throwing parts at it. He mentioned something about CAM BUS but don't remember exactly what. Ford wants all information and test results to review and will tell dealer next step. 2013 f350 6.2L 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed. Meed this truck back for work. Miss my baby. Anybody ever hear of anything remotely close to this?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 04:47 AM
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Have them check the connector at the emergency brake.
They get loose and cause a **** load of problems.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by T diesel
Have them check the connector at the emergency brake.
They get loose and cause a **** load of problems.
It's amazing how badly that little thing can jack everything up.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 07:05 AM
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Ford hotline told them since there is no communication to test out the battery junction (main fuse panel under hood). They might have to replace this panel. I will run it by them about this connector at e-brake.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 08:47 AM
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When it happens, apply and de-apply the parking brake. See if that fixes it - if so, you found it
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 09:33 AM
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I rarely use my e-brake because both the house and work are flat. But I've been using it a lot here lately at the campground putting the jet skis in and out. Every time I hit that little pedal I think about that stupid connector in there.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 09:45 PM
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Ford hotline told dealer to pull fuse box under hood and check for broken or burned connections. None found. They did however find there was no power at fuse block in right kick panel. They ran a temporary jumper and truck fired up with no codes or messages. To replace the wire in the harness requires removal of dash....11 hours labor. Or.....run a new wire neatly and professionally to the fuse block. The block will also be checked out because while I was pulling and checking fuses I found corrosion on a few of them. There was no leak from windshield, we had rain here just about every day for almost 2 weeks. I also had no leak from heater core. No wetness under silll trim. I'm thinking SOMEHOW it got wet and the corrosion spread across all of those aluminum contacts and the supply wire connector broke off. That is why it was shutting off on bumps until it finally broke completely. Thanks New Jersey roads. I will update as I find out more. Tell me so far it's $924 plus tax.....i complained and they brought it down to $880 plus tax.
 

Last edited by Heidrich1969; Jun 2, 2017 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Typo
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